1985 F150
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1985 F150
New to this forum, and I wanted to know if anyone could help me with my 1985 F150 with a 302. It failed to start some time ago (while it was turning over well) and then finially after cranking it and cranking it, trying to start it, it stopped cranking and started clicking. I got a new battery for it(hasn't helped, now it clicks but not as much as it used to), and then a new starter (haven't installed the starter yet) before installing the starter I thought I would replace the Solenoid Switch, and possibly the IGNITION COIL.
I'll have the Roast Duck
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From: Northshore, MN
the longer you hold the key and crank it, the more heat is built up from the battery, thus causing failure in the starter, solenoid, and cables in between. After that, you need to establish if you have spark or not.
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No, it's not getting a spark, it's not turning over. I just replaced the solenoid, and it still does the same thing - basiclly nothing. The light come on when ignition switch is turned on, but then when I try to crank it, the lights dim and nothing. I bought a new starter for it, but haven't put it on yet. I wanted to make sure that it wasn't anything else first. Can you burn the ignition coil out if you crank it too much? And the new starter that I bought doesn't look like anything under the hood that I can tell.
Last edited by F150owns; Oct 14, 2006 at 08:09 PM.
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Yes, that worked. It started for a short time and ran really crappy for about 30 sec. or so, then died. I'm right back to where I started some time ago. It's running like the fuel air mix isn't right, or the spark plugs are bad or something along those lines.
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Is it EFI? IF so, get a code reader and see what it says. (Code readers are a MUST and are cheap and available at any parts store or Wal-Mart - DOn't get anything too fancy, just a simple one for $20 bucks works) A problem that bad should be kicking out something for a code.
. When cranking it, you might have also fouled the plugs. Pull them and see if wet and smell like gas.
If no codes, is it carb or EFI? If Carb I would suspect choke.
If good, check for cracked distributor cap and the other usual suspects like wires on good, firing order right etc. I had plug wires swapped one time and it ran fine in the summer then wouldn't start once it got cold. I hadn't touched the wires in 6 months so didn't think they could be wrong but sure enough, I had a couple crossed and it just didnt show the effect until it got cold outside.
Most times it is something simple. I recall one time changing everything out as a teen and all it was was that the points had slipped. It is usually simple but the last thing you would suspect. -ggg-
Good Luck,
Lee
. When cranking it, you might have also fouled the plugs. Pull them and see if wet and smell like gas.
If no codes, is it carb or EFI? If Carb I would suspect choke.
If good, check for cracked distributor cap and the other usual suspects like wires on good, firing order right etc. I had plug wires swapped one time and it ran fine in the summer then wouldn't start once it got cold. I hadn't touched the wires in 6 months so didn't think they could be wrong but sure enough, I had a couple crossed and it just didnt show the effect until it got cold outside.
Most times it is something simple. I recall one time changing everything out as a teen and all it was was that the points had slipped. It is usually simple but the last thing you would suspect. -ggg-
Good Luck,
Lee
Last edited by Lee Lichterman; Oct 14, 2006 at 09:57 PM.
I'll have the Roast Duck
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From: Northshore, MN
you can check your egr pipes for holes too. When you turn the key on wo/ starting it, can you hear the fuel pump kicking on everytime? Remove the air filter, see if that helps. Just a couple of things to do before trying a code reader.
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Okay, I'll try those things tomorrow morning when I can see better. It is EFI. It's been running funny ever since the mechanic replace the oil pump. Maybe it is the distributing wires in the wrong order. How do I know for sure if they are in the right order or not? I want to by some new spark plugs for it too. If it fouls the plug in the vernacular does that mean they are ruined, or just wait for the gas to evaporate?
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You never mentioned if it was fuel injected EFI or carbureted ?
Please tell us
I have a suspicion you have flooded the engine and fouled the plugs with all that cranking.
Auto 101:
If the starter solenoid clicks you have a battery or starter problem.
1) Check the battery and charge with it a battery charger to full charge before going on.
2) Make sure all battery connections are clean & secure (tight).
Ignition systems need minimum 8 volts of power to operate, any less.... the engine won't run.
What makes you think the Spark plugs wires have been flooled with ?
Did the engine run before the fuel pump was replaced ?
Please tell us
I have a suspicion you have flooded the engine and fouled the plugs with all that cranking.
Auto 101:
If the starter solenoid clicks you have a battery or starter problem.
1) Check the battery and charge with it a battery charger to full charge before going on.
2) Make sure all battery connections are clean & secure (tight).
Ignition systems need minimum 8 volts of power to operate, any less.... the engine won't run.
What makes you think the Spark plugs wires have been flooled with ?
Did the engine run before the fuel pump was replaced ?
Last edited by Mil1ion; Oct 14, 2006 at 10:51 PM.
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Mil1ion: Thanks for your help.
I said they replace the oil pump, not the fuel pump. It hasn't run right since. I cleaned the battery terminals per havi's suggestion, and now it can start but run only for short periods of time, and it runs very poorly. It is EFI
I said they replace the oil pump, not the fuel pump. It hasn't run right since. I cleaned the battery terminals per havi's suggestion, and now it can start but run only for short periods of time, and it runs very poorly. It is EFI
Last edited by F150owns; Oct 15, 2006 at 12:16 AM.
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See if you have oil pressure. If not the EFI will shut down the fuel pump as a safety feature. If you have oil prressure, make sure they hooked up the oil pressure sender as the EFI may not KNOW you have oil pressure.
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Okay my mistake
Sounds lile a fuel starvation problem then.
There are a few auto parts places that have "Loan-a-tool" programs.
You need to borrow a code reader & a fuel pressure tester.
You can retrieve the engine codes by turning the key on and off 10 times but it is harder to read the codes that way.
Since it wont run long you won't be able to do any KOEO tests.
The line pressure on that fuel rail should be near 45 psi.
Look for the shraeder valve (tire valve) on the fuel rail.
You should have Duraspark III - EEC on that for an ignition system.
Here's the diagram.
Sounds lile a fuel starvation problem then.
There are a few auto parts places that have "Loan-a-tool" programs.
You need to borrow a code reader & a fuel pressure tester.
You can retrieve the engine codes by turning the key on and off 10 times but it is harder to read the codes that way.
Since it wont run long you won't be able to do any KOEO tests.
The line pressure on that fuel rail should be near 45 psi.
Look for the shraeder valve (tire valve) on the fuel rail.
You should have Duraspark III - EEC on that for an ignition system.
Here's the diagram.
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I changed the spark plugs and it seems to be running fine now. When I first started it up, it had troubble staying in gear, but after taking it around the block, it seems to be running fine now. Thanks.
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