Hi everybody. I am new to this stuff. I have a 1985 F350 2x4 CC Dully C6
with a 6.9 with a cracked block at block heater haha.
I just swapped a 6.9 out of a 1984 into my F350.
Had a miss and knock found out it was #5 injector replaced that set timing on IP-IP off old engine smokes a bunch at WOT black smoke. Can deal with that but trans. won't shift second and third auto, but can shift 1st to 2nd not 3rd man. Any help would be apreciated

Have read 84 pages in fourms found a lot of great info.

Ken

 

Have you reset the VRV on the IP or the manual position lever to the trans.

How to adjust VRV by James

You don't have the engine running for the test, you need to apply 20" vacuum (Hg) to upper VRV port and attach vacuum gauge to lower VRV port. The lower port is the one that goes to tranny, the upper to vacuum pump.
You have to maintain 20" vacuum (Hg) througout this test. If it drops off you need to pump it back up.
Remove throttle return spring, cycle throttle lever 5 times from idle to WOT. Make sure 20" vacuum is maintained on upper port side.
Move throttle so it is 0.515" (33/64") from wide open (they make a tool for this). Vacuum gauge should read from 6-8" of vacuum (Hg). If incorrect adjust VRV to 7".
Again apply 20" vacuum, cycle throttle from idle to WOT 5 times. Return to idle. Gauge should read at least 13".

It says if you can't get the 7" or the 13" to replace the VRV. If VRV checks out maybe the diaphragm (modulator), line from VRV goes to the vacuum diaphragm I believe. Can't find any adjustment for the diaphragm but I think there is a little.

Basically all you need for the test is a vacuum pump (handheld type), vacuum gauge and a ruler to measure 1/2" or a 33/64" drill bit in lieu of the .515" tool. And a screwdriver for any adjustment needed.
Good Luck
James

Note..... 20" vacuum Hg is equal to MINUS 65 Kpa..........


Automatic Transmission Shift Rod or Shift Cable Adjustment... C6 and E4OD

1 Raise vehicle on jack stands or hoist. (I'd block well and scramble under)

2 From inside the vehicle, place the select lever in D/C6 and OD/E4OD . Hang a three

pound weight on the selector lever ( six pack still full)

3 Remove shift cable from the transmission lever ball stud/shift rod.

4 Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.

5 Position transmission lever in drive position. This is three detents from the front-most

lever position with the first position counting as one.

6 Connect the cable and end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud/shift rod.

7 Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position or tighten nut

and bolt.

8 Remove jack stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove three pound weight from

column shift select lever.

9 After making adjustment, check for Park engagment. Check the transmission control lever

in all detent positions with the engine running to make sure correct detent/transmission

actions, readjust if necessary. Reset the PRNDL indicator as required.

CAUTION:
Under no circumstances will it be permissible to adjust the cable/shift rod in any position

other than D for C6 or OD for E4OD.

Now all should be ok if it is in PARK and everything works, remove blocks.

Road test...................(drink warm beer)

 

thanks for the great info on how set that stuff PLC7.3 but i found the prob.
the jusse clip on ip for kick down went by by and linkage came off.
you guys in this forum are a big big help to us wanta beeeeeessss
thanks a bunch i will have a bunch more ????? later on as i have been working
on this pile of junk for about 6 mo. now but not going to give up yet..



ken