Just flipped 100K last week and I have a rear main leak to go with it. Anyone know the ballpark cost to repair and can it blow my clutch if I don't address it right away?

 

Make absouletely certian it's the rear main. I just replaced the rear main in my 92 that I was CERTIAN was the leak. Well guess what? the %&(^ still leaked. As it turned out the back of the oil pan gasket was what had been leaking buckets.

The oil pan I had fixed in 3 hours, the rear main took me the better part of a weekend.

Pull the little dustboot from the side of the bellhousing and inspect the clutch and pressure plate with a flashlight. If it's dry you're OK if it's oily then you'll probably already need at least a new clutch disc.

 

You were right, it is the oil pan gasket. My mechanic gave me an estimate of $65 parts and $370 labor. That seems a little high but he mentioned having to raise the engine a few inches to do the repair. If that's the case then I can understand the labor cost. Did you have to do that, and if so, does the price sound about right to you?

 

I've done this on my 95 F150 and my dads 92 F150. Both times with the engine in the truck. The engine does need to be jacked up two or three inches to clear the cross member when removing the oil pan. Its not hard at all. Remove the two nuts that hold the motor mounts to the frame perches, and I also removed the transmission mounting bolts. Jack the transmission up and from there I had plenty of room to get the oil pan out. Remove the oil pan bolts, drop the pan. Remove oil pump and pick up tube and drop into pan. Thats it, and reinstall in reverse order making sure the mating surface on the block is clean. Hope that helps.

 

to just change the gasket you may get away without raising the engine too much.

why don't you do it yourself?

that sounds like the labor to take the pan completely out.

 

All I had to do was remove the fan shroud (actually mine was already missing) Remove the two nuts from the motor mounts. Place a floor jack underneath the crankshaft pully and jack the engine up untill the EGR valve came into contact with the wiper motor. That's all I had to do to get access to remove the oil pan. The manuals say you have remove the oil pickup tube, I did not have to do this.

Like I said I timed the operation and it only took me 3hrs and I kinda took my time. My felpro gasket kit and oil from Oriellies only cost me $35 So unless the shop is charging you $120 per hour for labor The quoted price does in fact sound rather steep. Have you concidered going DIY? Cause I was rather tickled with how easy the gasket change was on my 92 4x2. If you can change you're own oil you can ace this project and save almost $400

 

krochus, you did you mean you replaced just the gasket with the pan still in vehicle, right?

no way you took the oil pan completely out of the vehicle without taking the oil pump and screen out first.

i did this job and had to drop the oil pump into the pan to remove and replace it.

 

I most certianlly did in fact remove the oilpan from the truck and NO I did not remove the oil pickup in order to do it. As previously stated I had to jack the engine as far as I could untill the EGR valve contacted the wiper motor (probably 4 or 5 inches).

 

if he has 2 wheel drive he doesn't have to remove the pickup i don't beleive....its more of a pain in the butt when it comes to four wheel drive.

 

i had to remove my oil pickup and pump from my 2wd 300 to get the oil pan out.

to get it out without doing this was not possible in my truck and i had the engine up pretty high.

anyone else do it without doing this? 2wd or 4wd?

 

Did you make certian that the #1 cylinder was on TDC, Giving a little more clearance for the oil pan at the front of the crankshaft? And just how high did you raise the engine? I literally raised mine to the point that any higher would be breaking things.

Lastly did you try to get the oil pan out before removing the oil pump ASSY, My pan didn't exactly fall out, But with a little creative wigglin and jiggling it came out none the less.

I get the distinct impression that you don't believe me.

 

I had mine up really high too. I also removed the transmission mount. I remember that my egr valve was touching the wiper motor and the top of my transmission was contacting the bottom of the cab floor. I too almost thought I broke something it was lifted so high.

 

I did not remove my tranny mount, I wonder if having it attached changed the angle enough for me to get my pan out? What transmission did you have? Mine is the m5od As I recall my trans was not particulary close to the floorboard.

I had the truck on a set of ramps and then I had my floorjack with a board pushing up on the harmonic balancer to lift the engine.
But I really think that having the number one throw on the crankshaft up and out of the way is what gave that last few 16ths of clearance that allowed the pan to come free without removing the pump or pickup tube.

 

i did the pan gasket in mine whilein the truck about a month ago....i too jacked the motor up as high as it woudl go and was able to squeeze the pan out without removing he pickup or pump

mine is a c-6 auto 2wd truck, 1989

 

Hey Krochus, I also have the M5OD. I was actually having problems getting the pan out before I removed the trans mount. But I did not think to turn the crankshaft to help clear the #1 throw like you did. That might of been the reason why.