Valve cover
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Valve cover
Hey Guys still working on my '87 5.0.
Thanks for the help with my fuel problems I am still working on that. Seems I have multiple problems there. My question today is will the passenger valve cover clear the bottom of the intake? I need to change the gaskets but not looking foward to pulling the upper intake plenum to get the right side off.
Back to my fuel issues I found that the fuel pumps were wired to a constant power at the inertia cutoff switch. The switch appears to be bad and will be replaced but If I put a test light on the circuit into the switch I don't seem to get power for the three seconds or so I would expect at start up. Would this indicate that the ECM is bad since it seems to trigger the relay for the pumps?
Thanks
Cary
Thanks for the help with my fuel problems I am still working on that. Seems I have multiple problems there. My question today is will the passenger valve cover clear the bottom of the intake? I need to change the gaskets but not looking foward to pulling the upper intake plenum to get the right side off.
Back to my fuel issues I found that the fuel pumps were wired to a constant power at the inertia cutoff switch. The switch appears to be bad and will be replaced but If I put a test light on the circuit into the switch I don't seem to get power for the three seconds or so I would expect at start up. Would this indicate that the ECM is bad since it seems to trigger the relay for the pumps?
Thanks
Cary
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Madbaverick
Back to my fuel issues I found that the fuel pumps were wired to a constant power at the inertia cutoff switch. The switch appears to be bad and will be replaced but If I put a test light on the circuit into the switch I don't seem to get power for the three seconds or so I would expect at start up. Would this indicate that the ECM is bad since it seems to trigger the relay for the pumps?
Here is a diagram of the electrical for the fuel system:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Fuel/1987FuelpumpselE1505.gif
Last edited by subford; Oct 4, 2006 at 07:27 AM.
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re:
OK
I pulled the inertia switch and it seems fine, pops when shaken and resets with no problem. I have constant power to the fuel pump relay and when I bypass the relay the pumps run so I feel that the connections and grounds at the pumps are fine. On the relay the triggering wires that go to the computer are red and orange which matches color codes in my Chiltons but not the schematic posted above. I only have a test light and these are my results. When the key is turned on the red wire goes hot for a few seconds, then goes off, then imediatly back on and stays on. The orange wire when the key is on and I put the test light on it emits a faint light but triggers the fuel pump. I think by putting the test light on it I am creating a ground there by closing the relay and activating the pumps. So Is my relay bad or the computer?
Thanks
Cary
I pulled the inertia switch and it seems fine, pops when shaken and resets with no problem. I have constant power to the fuel pump relay and when I bypass the relay the pumps run so I feel that the connections and grounds at the pumps are fine. On the relay the triggering wires that go to the computer are red and orange which matches color codes in my Chiltons but not the schematic posted above. I only have a test light and these are my results. When the key is turned on the red wire goes hot for a few seconds, then goes off, then imediatly back on and stays on. The orange wire when the key is on and I put the test light on it emits a faint light but triggers the fuel pump. I think by putting the test light on it I am creating a ground there by closing the relay and activating the pumps. So Is my relay bad or the computer?
Thanks
Cary
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From: Sweden
Originally Posted by Madbaverick
My question today is will the passenger valve cover clear the bottom of the intake? I need to change the gaskets but not looking foward to pulling the upper intake plenum to get the right side off.
Actually, if you have an '87, a common problem is intake leaks. It causes a high idle, idle wandering all over the place, poor mpg and power problems (but a 302 truck/van isn't going to ever have "good" mpg). You want to fix this! It will also allow you to clean up the intake and its EGR port, and clean the fuel injectors. Don't replace the injectors, just soak them in cleaner.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Dannym
I had to change it, I was told it was not possible to do it without removing the plenum and that seemed clear that it would not be possible. I can't imagine how subford did that unless he's got something different in his setup.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Madbaverick
On the relay the triggering wires that go to the computer are red and orange which matches color codes in my Chiltons but not the schematic posted above.
I would not have a Chiltons as it has too many errors, I only use Ford shop manuals for my sources.
I will say that the drawing I have for the 1987 van that this wire color is not shown but I do not have any reason to believe it is other than the Tan with a light green stripe wire.
Ford has used Tan with a light green stripe in all cars, vans and trucks though 1989 and then changed to a Light Blue wire with a orange stripe in 1990.
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Re:
Quote:
Well I don't know what to do with that. I do have a chiltons, the color codes are as I have stated, and your response does not answer my question. I mean no disrespect, I am just trying to get my van running and I was under the impression that this site was about helping each other out.
I wanted to post a pic of the book and the relay but I am not allowed to post attachments not sure why.
Cary
As far as I know Ford has never used an orange wire going to pin#22 of the EEC from the fuel pump relay to be sunk to ground and everybody else has said that Chiltons does not cover the system at all.
I would not have a Chiltons as it has too many errors, I only use Ford shop manuals for my sources.
I will say that the drawing I have for the 1987 van that this wire color is not shown but I do not have any reason to believe it is other than the Tan with a light green stripe wire.
Ford has used Tan with a light green stripe in all cars, vans and trucks though 1989 and then changed to a Light Blue wire with a orange stripe in 1990
I would not have a Chiltons as it has too many errors, I only use Ford shop manuals for my sources.
I will say that the drawing I have for the 1987 van that this wire color is not shown but I do not have any reason to believe it is other than the Tan with a light green stripe wire.
Ford has used Tan with a light green stripe in all cars, vans and trucks though 1989 and then changed to a Light Blue wire with a orange stripe in 1990
I wanted to post a pic of the book and the relay but I am not allowed to post attachments not sure why.
Cary
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Madbaverick
Quote:
Well I don't know what to do with that. I do have a chiltons, the color codes are as I have stated, and your response does not answer my question. I mean no disrespect, I am just trying to get my van running and I was under the impression that this site was about helping each other out.
I wanted to post a pic of the book and the relay but I am not allowed to post attachments not sure why.
Cary
Well I don't know what to do with that. I do have a chiltons, the color codes are as I have stated, and your response does not answer my question. I mean no disrespect, I am just trying to get my van running and I was under the impression that this site was about helping each other out.
I wanted to post a pic of the book and the relay but I am not allowed to post attachments not sure why.
Cary
I will email or PM you my email address.
Is it wired the same and just the wire colors are different than the above diagram?
If you are talking about the red coil wire of the fuel pump relay then this wire should be hot whenever the key is in the on position. If it is going on, off and on then you have a bad EEC power relay or the ignition switch is bad.
Anybody can post a pic, just upload it to some host site like the ones I used above and link to it.
As far as helping each other out that is what we are trying to do and most users on here have about the same opinion as I do about the chiltons manuals.
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re:
Originally Posted by subford
Number one in order to help you we have to be on the same page so you can email me the pic of the book and the relay.
I will email or PM you my email address.
Is it wired the same and just the wire colors are different than the above diagram?
If you are talking about the red coil wire of the fuel pump relay then this wire should be hot whenever the key is in the on position. If it is going on, off and on then you have a bad EEC power relay or the ignition switch is bad.
Anybody can post a pic, just upload it to some host site like the ones I used above and link to it.
As far as helping each other out that is what we are trying to do and most users on here have about the same opinion as I do about the chiltons manuals.
I will email or PM you my email address.
Is it wired the same and just the wire colors are different than the above diagram?
If you are talking about the red coil wire of the fuel pump relay then this wire should be hot whenever the key is in the on position. If it is going on, off and on then you have a bad EEC power relay or the ignition switch is bad.
Anybody can post a pic, just upload it to some host site like the ones I used above and link to it.
As far as helping each other out that is what we are trying to do and most users on here have about the same opinion as I do about the chiltons manuals.
Thanks
Cary