Hard Starting
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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Hard Starting
Hello I have a 1984 ford 6.9 diesel with 138,000 mi. which has suddenly became hard starting. the previous owner said he put new glow plugs in about a year ago
I havent owned it long mabey 2 mos. and it started fine then. I added fuel additive to it the first fill up and havent since. Mabey someone can help me. I turn the key,wait for the glow plug light to go off which is probably 6-10 sec. then it just cranks and cranks and will not start. I give it slight accelerator and hold it and crank and crank and it will finally fire up and bellow a clowd of whitish smoke and then run fine. any input will be appreciated
I havent owned it long mabey 2 mos. and it started fine then. I added fuel additive to it the first fill up and havent since. Mabey someone can help me. I turn the key,wait for the glow plug light to go off which is probably 6-10 sec. then it just cranks and cranks and will not start. I give it slight accelerator and hold it and crank and crank and it will finally fire up and bellow a clowd of whitish smoke and then run fine. any input will be appreciated
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,897
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
could be glow plugs, and could be fuel bleeding back away from the filter.
if you have a block heater (one of them plug in thingies on the truck) use it for 2 hours before lift off and see if it starts easier. Although the block heater may not be working properly either, but you should hear the water start to cook when you first plug it in.
if that doesnt make any difference, it is probably air intrusion or fuel bleed back. Usually you can smell or see fuel in the valley of the engine from the return lines.
DONT CRANK ON THE STARTER TOO LONG .. they are susceptible to heat exhaustion. 20 seconds cranking and 2 minute cooldown period. (I dont write em, I just get the word out).
if you still have problems after trying the block heater, get back and we'll get another think tank going.
if you have a block heater (one of them plug in thingies on the truck) use it for 2 hours before lift off and see if it starts easier. Although the block heater may not be working properly either, but you should hear the water start to cook when you first plug it in.
if that doesnt make any difference, it is probably air intrusion or fuel bleed back. Usually you can smell or see fuel in the valley of the engine from the return lines.
DONT CRANK ON THE STARTER TOO LONG .. they are susceptible to heat exhaustion. 20 seconds cranking and 2 minute cooldown period. (I dont write em, I just get the word out).
if you still have problems after trying the block heater, get back and we'll get another think tank going.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
From: Perry Georgia
I had a very simular problem till last weekend. I waited till the glo plug light went out then turned the key. Motor turned over fine. No start. Since it has gotten colder, it has really been a bear. I read some of the post and checked my glo plugs. I found 2 bad plugs, replaced them and now she starts right up. You can check the glo plugs with either a continuty light or multi meter, (which i used). Remove the electrical wire from the glo plug and see if you have a circuit between the tip and the ground. One bad plug and the engine will be hard to start. I have an Isuzu Diesel Trooper and i replace the glo plugs once a year. End of starting problems.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
The only thing unless its super major that will cause our engines to die is lack of fuel. I'm sure you are either out of gas or aren't pumping any fuel into your Injection Pump -IP.
Here is a quick diagnosis.
1. Make sure you key is off so you dont burn up your glow plugs.
2. Pull off the little wire from the solenoid on your passenger side fender (inside)
3. Crank over your engine with a screwdriver while holding the the needle in on the valve (the valve is a tire-looking valve on your fuel filter.
4. Crank over until fuel starts sputtering out.
5. REconnect little wire to solenoid.
6. Turn key and see if it starts. Mine took 10 seconds to start.
Cranking 20-30 seconds and let set for a minute or two so you dont burn up your starter.
There are several of us with the same problems. First thing is to plug the line that goes from your filter to your injectors (#2 and #4 i think.) plug with nonthreaded portion of bolt or whatever. I took a 1/4" bolt and cut off the threads with large wire cutters and a hammer (hammer to help cut the bolt)
Plug the hose comming from the injectors too. If you replace the line & T fitting with one piece you will most likely dislodge the injector o-ring seals and probably have the same problems.
your engine sounds like it is just loosing its prime and the fuel is running back to the tank. your system is like a straw and water. if there is a leak at the top, all the liquid will run out of the system.
You dont need spray, and I wouldnt recommend it anyway since the glowplugs could ignite it and burn up you or your engine.
Always remember this! Diesels need fuel and timing of injectors. Our diesels dont need much more than that (no cam positioning sensors or crap like that) if your engine dies 98% of the time it will be a lack-of-fuel problem.
I hope this helps, post up results of the cranking-while-opening-valve technique and tell us what you have found out.
good luck,
Jeremy
Here is a quick diagnosis.
1. Make sure you key is off so you dont burn up your glow plugs.
2. Pull off the little wire from the solenoid on your passenger side fender (inside)
3. Crank over your engine with a screwdriver while holding the the needle in on the valve (the valve is a tire-looking valve on your fuel filter.
4. Crank over until fuel starts sputtering out.
5. REconnect little wire to solenoid.
6. Turn key and see if it starts. Mine took 10 seconds to start.
Cranking 20-30 seconds and let set for a minute or two so you dont burn up your starter.
There are several of us with the same problems. First thing is to plug the line that goes from your filter to your injectors (#2 and #4 i think.) plug with nonthreaded portion of bolt or whatever. I took a 1/4" bolt and cut off the threads with large wire cutters and a hammer (hammer to help cut the bolt)
Plug the hose comming from the injectors too. If you replace the line & T fitting with one piece you will most likely dislodge the injector o-ring seals and probably have the same problems.
your engine sounds like it is just loosing its prime and the fuel is running back to the tank. your system is like a straw and water. if there is a leak at the top, all the liquid will run out of the system.
You dont need spray, and I wouldnt recommend it anyway since the glowplugs could ignite it and burn up you or your engine.
Always remember this! Diesels need fuel and timing of injectors. Our diesels dont need much more than that (no cam positioning sensors or crap like that) if your engine dies 98% of the time it will be a lack-of-fuel problem.
I hope this helps, post up results of the cranking-while-opening-valve technique and tell us what you have found out.
good luck,
Jeremy
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Ladner, British Columbia
Your problems are most likely air in fuel intrusion related. This problem shows up when the temperature get colder and the old fuel return lines and O-ring shrink and harden with ambient temperature.
Replace all your rubber o-rings, plastic caps and rubber hoses on the fuel return system. A total replacement kit should cost less than $100.
Best of luck,
Seb.....
Replace all your rubber o-rings, plastic caps and rubber hoses on the fuel return system. A total replacement kit should cost less than $100.
Best of luck,
Seb.....
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Where do you look to purchase these kits?
Originally Posted by Hamberger
Your problems are most likely air in fuel intrusion related. This problem shows up when the temperature get colder and the old fuel return lines and O-ring shrink and harden with ambient temperature.
Replace all your rubber o-rings, plastic caps and rubber hoses on the fuel return system. A total replacement kit should cost less than $100.
Best of luck,
Seb.....
Replace all your rubber o-rings, plastic caps and rubber hoses on the fuel return system. A total replacement kit should cost less than $100.
Best of luck,
Seb.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
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PSD Addict
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Michigan
I just bought my kit from this one; http://www.mwfi.com/Dieselpage.htm
& I recommend them, I purchased first from the other link, paid extra overnight shipping so I could have it for the weekend(last weekend), they waited till Monday to tell me it was on Galactic back order!! Got hold of Midwest on Monday & my kit was here waiting when I got home!! I did the install & it worked great, hopefully I'll be saying the same tomorrow morning when I try to start it but I'm very confident. I can already tell a huge differance.
& I recommend them, I purchased first from the other link, paid extra overnight shipping so I could have it for the weekend(last weekend), they waited till Monday to tell me it was on Galactic back order!! Got hold of Midwest on Monday & my kit was here waiting when I got home!! I did the install & it worked great, hopefully I'll be saying the same tomorrow morning when I try to start it but I'm very confident. I can already tell a huge differance.