spent the night searching siteand looking over my performer and streetmaster intakes.

I think i'll go with the streetmaster on my new 400- just for kicks and see how it handles the propane...from what i can tell there isn't a huge low end loss or midrange gain. unsure why i have that impression.

The streetmaster has a hole in the plenum - dead center, direcly under carb- probably 7/16" or so- what is that about? Does fuel run down into it if it isn't evaporated? I'm very new to the fuel/air stuff

I will look at drill/tap to install bolts to block crossover- will need heat (montana winter coming) until i get propane going (not sure how it affects propane) but want to look into torques heated intake system- didn't find it yet though. I am concerned about using other methods to block crossover as it is, what, 2" or so above the exhaust valve and not wanting fodder to fall into that area- seems possible with copper wool etc. Am I off base there?

also...i'm a guru now...go figure

 

You have always been a Guru...

I like to recommend that people use some sort of stock air cleaner box. Use one off of a 454 Chevy Truck, or 440 Chrysler, they both have huge air filter elements. Make sure they fit on the carb you use. Save the little air temp switches and collect a couple more while you are in the salvage yard. Find two of the large air snorkels off of late 70's Ford's with the vacuum motor air damper in them. Modify the air cleaner box so that you have two air snorkels pointing in the proper directions to clear obstacles on valve covers etc. Remember to make a baffle to keep high speed debris from directly striking the filter element. The little air temp switches have a threaded tube sticking out of them that can be adjusted to control the temperature that they open and close at. To adjust them all you have to do is warm the threads up with a torch briefly to melt the Locktite then adjust them in and out for the proper temp. I adjust mine so they operate at about 75-85°F. If you ruin one of the temp switches you have more to play with right? I Locktite the adjustment with green wicking type Locktite when I have it set right. I use plastic ducting as straight as possible with the shortest amount of tubing to run to the radiator support for intake air. Use a small sheet metal shroud around headers or the stock unit for manifolds on one side for warm air for the heated air intake. The other hot air supply can be blocked off. The shrouds also block radiated heat off the headers or manifold from hitting the alternator etc. I also use insulation on the metal snorkel. I just use aluminum foil tape with thin 1/8" adhesive backed foam. I use regular aluminum tape to seal the edges. It is shiny and does not look toooo bad. I am looking for function more than looks.
Additional info- A Ford warm air modulator #D5DF-9E862-AA (blue) will modulate at ~70°F.

This setup has worked for me in Kansas winters with the exhaust crossover plugged.

 

sounds simple enough



thanks