I found a Flathead engine for sale, but the guy selling it doesn't know the year. He says it's in a mid-40's pickup, but he thought the engine was newer than the truck. He says the engine has EAB on the heads. Wouldn't this make it a '52 0r '53? He also says it's "stuck". If purchased, I would have this engine re-built, but as a novice, what does he mean by "stuck". (I did E-mail him, but he has not gotten back to me yet), Is this something to stay away from? or is this a common issue on old inactive engines that will be taken care of during the re-build?

 

You didn't say how much but if it is at all reasonable grab it. The EAB is a 1953 ford 8ba and is desirable. The EAB heads have the highest stock compression I think. Any number of things could have caused it to become stuck and this is a common problem with older engines that have been neglected. I usually tear them completely down and hottank the block (around $30--and closely inspect it)- then magnaflux it (if there are no obvious cracks or damage) (around $35) to make sure it is sound. Check the bore for sizing and inspect the piston for clearances. I would probable just eyeball the crank and mike the journals but if you want to make real sure have the crank tanked and fluxed also and checked for runout. If all is well have the heads milled just enough to assure they are clean and true and then rebuild it and you will have a very nice motor. If you do not want to rebuild it then take the short route, pull the plugs and fill the chambers with Marvel Mystery Oil or even diesel fuel and let set for a few days, then get a heavy socket on the crank bolt and a breaker bar and try to move it that way. You can also pull the starter and work the flywheel with a large screwdriver or tire iron. If you want to get a little radical just pull the thing in gear, low or reverse, and let the clutch out slowly. If you want to get crazy, just jack it up and wedge the breaker bar on the crank bolt and let the car down slowly and let the weight try to break it loose. Several things can happen and the good thing is that it could come loose, the bad things you don't want to even think about. Good luck and you will really enjoy the old flatheads so don't let them get away from you.....george (flatbroke52)

 

If it is a 49-53 the distributor is a conventional type mounted on the right side, and it has thermostat housings on the front of each head.

When an engine won't turn over it has had water down it and the rings are rusted to the cylinder bores. I would not buy such an engine without inspecting it by pulling a head, and pulling the pan. It is has no broken parts and has not too much cylinder wear, It can be disassembled with judicious use of penetrating oil in the bores and a ridge reamer.

At his point you would have a rebuildable engine, but one that would require boring, new pistons, a lot of surface rust cleanup. You would be far better off to buy a good rebuilt engine from a trustworthy builder like Tardel. Very few auto machinists know flatheads and they are no better than using a veterinarian for an appendectomy.

The prefix EAB was used for Ford heads in 52 and 53. The 49-53 engine is generally called an 8BA. You may verify this by the distributor location and the thermostat housings for the water hoses on the front of the heads.

Regards,

Alanco

 

Stuck means the engine does not turn - and that is bad. As discribed above there are several ways to break it loose - and many members have had good luck with the engine after it was broke free.

Mostly it is the rings, piston, and cylinder bore have fused together - which to me means an overhaul with new pistons and a bore job. It is also possible that you will need to sleve one or more cylinders. Since you will have the engine out I would remove the heads and work on getting it free before I dismanteled it.

Worse comes to worse, remove the crank and use a block of wood and a sledge to knock the piston out.

If the engine will not turn, I would not pay more than $75 to $100 for it. This engine may be junk too.

On Edit: Sorry Alan - our posts crossed in the mail. Your idea sounds better.

 

You guys are scaring me off, which I guess is a good thing!!! This engine is about 2,000 miles away, so once I buy it, it's mine....fixable or not. He's asking around $350.00 plus shipping.

 

Best pass on that one, the shipping would be much more than the engine was worth. Hang in there, we will find you one in California, and, if needed other arrangements can be made to get the engine to you.

 

And shipping is going to quadruple the price, right? Well, in case I'm wrong about the shipping thing, here's some more info about stuck motors...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...e-a-motor.html

 

Check out eBay item number 290033071805 -- it is pricy, but comes with a lot of extra parts.

Also check this out - http://sandiego.craigslist.org/pts/212429672.html
it is a 6, but cheap. this might get you going while you work on getting a V8.

 

What do you guys think of this one: a 1953 Mercury flathad. The seller claims; "IT RAN OK WHEN PULLED 6 YRS. AGO. IT HAS HAD OIL PUT INTO CYLS. AND TURNS OVER FREELY. COMES COMPLETE WITH FORD 94 CARB.,STARTER, GENERATOR , FLYWHEEL&CLUTCH. IT IS THE 8RT MOTOR" From the photo it looks like hell, but it's gonna be re-built anyway. Its an auction item and the current high bid is $157.00. I still would have to get it shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...DME:B:AAQ:US:1

 

That sound slike a good engine but he has zero feedback and has been a ebay member since sept 04.
The Merc engines had a different crank generating more power. I bet that will go up around $400-$500

I wouldnt bid unless I could see it first because of his zero feedback.
You should be able to find one near you. Give it time.
I had a flatty a guy gave me said it was good ran when pulled. Wasnt stuck just hard to turn. I pulled the pan and the rod cap and bearing fell out on the floor. It had thrown a rod and the valves were all shot but the block was good. I sold it for $75.
There around.
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If it is a 53 Merc then the heads should be EAC, not 8RT which is a truck motor. Of course with flatties you never know cause of so much interchangeability with the parts. Sounds like an iffy deal to me unless you could inspect the motor and check the stroke to see if it has the 4" crank and the merc pistons too. It might have some goodies in it like adjustable lifters and a cam, you just never know. I usually will pay up to $100 for a motor with this many ????? involved. Sometimes it pays off but most times it is not worth it.

fifty2f1