Ok....first let me say that I have been told that the 360/390 in my 1967 F-250 came from a "passenger car" (although I take everything told to me about this truck with a grain of salt as 60% of the time, the "expert opinion" is wrong). This guy told me that the engine mounts had been reversed to give the "front sump" engine proper clearance behind the front crossmember (which I imagine the regular engine would rest over). I can take and post some pics if further clarification is needed.
This engine currently has headers on it, but they need to be replaced.....at least on of the bolts at the "manifold/head" union is not even sunk all the way, and many of the threds oin the head were bored out by a previous owner so they could use a "bolt and nut" combo to attach the headers (the lower bolts appear to be threaded into the heads properly, in most places, but most, if not all, of the top ones have this "nut & bolt" thing going on. On top of all of that, the driver's side header is pressing up against the engine case, right where the oil pan fits.....the edge of the oil pan is actually bent a little bit (as is the header tube) at this point.......which looks like an exhaust leak waiting to happen!

So, what I need to figure out.....it what headers to buy for replacement, given my peculiar configuration, that will fit. Am I stuck with a bad situation because of the way this truck was put together, or is there a header (perhaps made for Pass car) that will fit the job?

 

Car or truck motor makes no difference. These trucks were FRONT sump pan motors, like most all car motors. The only real difference was CAR pans have the drain on the side of the pan and the trucks were on the center rear(to clear crossmember when draining oil). Either will fit truck fine with no motor mount changing. Not sure what he did with motor mounts? I know they had 2 and 4 bolt pads on motors(depending on year) so that might have been an issue.

Sounds like most of the upper manifold bolts are stripped out. VERY typical as they are a open hole that fills with moisture and rusts the bolt very solid over time. Not much you can do but replace with nut/bolt configuration like it has, unless you pull head and have heli-coils installed. You can do this on the truck, but very difficult if you don't have the right tools.

Granted some headers fit better then others, but I have Dynomax on my '67 352 and fit with minimal "finessing" with hammer to clear stuff. Had to dent a couple tubes lightly if I recall 4 yrs ago. Just purchase a set for a 67-72 FE motor truck and you'll be fine since they only offer two kinds: 2wd and 4wd.

 

nice.....I'm not looking forward to that tight spot near the oil pan developing a hole.....as this eninge gets rather LOUD without mufflage! lol

 

I have the Hedman headers on my 76, 390 4x4. I had to put two small dents in the passenger side tubs in order to clear the frame rails, and also to make sure the power wire running to the starter was not going to ground out. Its a VERY tight fit down there with the starter but its possible to get them in with no leaks. The best thing I did as far as the headers go was to install the ARP stud kit. Someone had the same issue that you have which was the stripped threads on the upper bolt holes. After I installed the studs, I never had to worry about it again. Just a little dab of threadlock on each stud.

 

I have hooker headers on my 76 F-150 and they fit and sound like a dream no mod's were needed.

 

I have a set of FlowMaster long-tube headers on my '75 F-250 SC, 360,NP435, 2WD. They fit nice/easy after lifting the engine a bit. Thrush flo-thru muffles the bark to a mild roar when it's goosed - otherwise it's peacefull and deep w/ 2 1/2" pipe and 4" tips.