Temp gauge issue...
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: St. Peter
How far does it get. On my old black ranger, it would get about to the N on the word "NORMAL". and thats where it would stay. I know its working because when the tstat finally did go bad the truck went up to into the "red zone" pretty quick. I think if its somewhere around that ball park i would just pass it off as normal and try not to worry about it. That or someone put a 160 or 180 degree stat in on you. I think the normal one is 195. but to me it sounds like your getting plenty of heat.
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PawPaw : I know about shorting it, but I can't get to the sending unit. When I crawl under the truck, I can reach up and touch it, but just can't seem to get my hand in a good way to pull the connection off. And I'd like to know how you guys change them? How and where do you go through?
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Well I don't have a "best access" answer for you, as I have a 4.0L, so one of the 4 banger guys will have to answer up.
If you can get to an exposed portion of the center electrical contact on the sender, with a long ground probe, even without removing the lead, that should work well enough to test the gauge & cause it to move upscale, if it's ok.
It sounds like the sending unit is faulty though, good luck in getting to that puppy.
From the illustrations I've seen, with it being on the drivers side rear, of the engine block, below the oil sending unit, isn't it accessible from the top of the engine, or from the drivers side of the engine????
If you can get to an exposed portion of the center electrical contact on the sender, with a long ground probe, even without removing the lead, that should work well enough to test the gauge & cause it to move upscale, if it's ok.
It sounds like the sending unit is faulty though, good luck in getting to that puppy.
From the illustrations I've seen, with it being on the drivers side rear, of the engine block, below the oil sending unit, isn't it accessible from the top of the engine, or from the drivers side of the engine????
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Yup, looks like it's either done from below or by the side taking off the wheel well cover.
I'll tackle it this week-end, along with the t-stat, might as well do both since i have to flush the coolant to do either one...
I'll tackle it this week-end, along with the t-stat, might as well do both since i have to flush the coolant to do either one...
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Well, almost yelled victory today!
Crawled under the ranger, got a good look at the temp sender connector, it was so rusted up that the connection inside the rubber boot was bonded with the terminal on the sender and nothing was really hooked up to what's left in the boot. Guess it was just making a semi-contact. So, soldered a alligator clip to the wire and sanded as best as I could the crud on the terminal of the sender. But it didnt change the result.
But I managed to clip my newly installed alligator clip to the body and the gauge shot up to max, good news at least.
So now, it's either the corroded terminal, OR, really is the sender...
BTW, it's physically impossible to change my thermostat, but I verified, it's not stuck open. So it's got something to do with sender...
M
Crawled under the ranger, got a good look at the temp sender connector, it was so rusted up that the connection inside the rubber boot was bonded with the terminal on the sender and nothing was really hooked up to what's left in the boot. Guess it was just making a semi-contact. So, soldered a alligator clip to the wire and sanded as best as I could the crud on the terminal of the sender. But it didnt change the result.
But I managed to clip my newly installed alligator clip to the body and the gauge shot up to max, good news at least.
So now, it's either the corroded terminal, OR, really is the sender...
BTW, it's physically impossible to change my thermostat, but I verified, it's not stuck open. So it's got something to do with sender...
M
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Didn't get to "N" at all.
This morning, got around to changing the Sender. Here's what I did notice...
Had to flush the water from the engine and the rad, so drained the rad and disconnected the bottom hose from the rad, this pretty much flushed everything I could find (plus the overflow bottle). Then I replaced the sender.
When I refilled the rad with water and started the engine, the temp gauge made it all the way to mid-point, something like "R" or "M" then the thermostat opened... I turned the engine off so I could get back in the front and add water, then re-started the engine. At that point, just idling in the garage (door opened) it never made it back to "N", just stayed slightly above the "C". Maybe if I drive it, maybe just idling parked will do that, don't know.. Tomorrow i'll take it out for a spin.
I'm keeping it with water only for now because i'm testing it and changing sender, might also change the t-stat, so it's easier and cleaner this way. Once it's all good, i'll be flushing and filling with a 50/50 mix...
Any comments/suggestions are welcomed...
M
This morning, got around to changing the Sender. Here's what I did notice...
Had to flush the water from the engine and the rad, so drained the rad and disconnected the bottom hose from the rad, this pretty much flushed everything I could find (plus the overflow bottle). Then I replaced the sender.
When I refilled the rad with water and started the engine, the temp gauge made it all the way to mid-point, something like "R" or "M" then the thermostat opened... I turned the engine off so I could get back in the front and add water, then re-started the engine. At that point, just idling in the garage (door opened) it never made it back to "N", just stayed slightly above the "C". Maybe if I drive it, maybe just idling parked will do that, don't know.. Tomorrow i'll take it out for a spin.
I'm keeping it with water only for now because i'm testing it and changing sender, might also change the t-stat, so it's easier and cleaner this way. Once it's all good, i'll be flushing and filling with a 50/50 mix...
Any comments/suggestions are welcomed...
M
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
I did my 94 Taurus 3.8L cooling system this year. I bought the vehicle new, so I knew what it neeed & when.
I replaced everything but the water pump. All rubber hoses, including the heater & bypass hoses, recovery tank hose, thermostat, radiator cap, back flushed the system, replaced the sertentine belt & idler pulley.
Used distilled water to back flush the system & to cut the coolant 50/50!!!!
So seeing as how your in there with the coolant temp sender & thermostat, why not go all the way, with belts, hoses, radiator cap, ect & put it right, so you won't have to be concerned with it this winter.
With the vintage on your ride & not knowing it's history, it's probably worth considration!!!! Just some thoughts to ponder.
I replaced everything but the water pump. All rubber hoses, including the heater & bypass hoses, recovery tank hose, thermostat, radiator cap, back flushed the system, replaced the sertentine belt & idler pulley.
Used distilled water to back flush the system & to cut the coolant 50/50!!!!
So seeing as how your in there with the coolant temp sender & thermostat, why not go all the way, with belts, hoses, radiator cap, ect & put it right, so you won't have to be concerned with it this winter.
With the vintage on your ride & not knowing it's history, it's probably worth considration!!!! Just some thoughts to ponder.
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Junior User
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It would be a good idea to do everything you mention, but not at this point. This is not my main vehicule, I only bought this truck for fun. So I intend on getting to everything, just not right away. As long as everything functions, i'm happy. Seeing as winter's coming, I'd like to get the temp gauge doing ok so I can monitor it, but next summer I'll really start to fix it up, although there's not much to fix, it looks like it's pretty solid as it is...
Hope to drive it tomorrow and see how the new sender is holding up. I did the sender to ground thingy, shot right up to max, and I know the t-stat opens and closes, so I don't know much else that would cause the gauge to not come up, unless the current t-stat is "too cool" for the truck. Cuz even if the fan clutch was always engaged, I'm thinking the t-stat would eventually close back up... Unless i've got things backwards...
M
Hope to drive it tomorrow and see how the new sender is holding up. I did the sender to ground thingy, shot right up to max, and I know the t-stat opens and closes, so I don't know much else that would cause the gauge to not come up, unless the current t-stat is "too cool" for the truck. Cuz even if the fan clutch was always engaged, I'm thinking the t-stat would eventually close back up... Unless i've got things backwards...
M
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Junior User
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Originally Posted by pawpaw
Did you put a 195 deg thermostat in?????
Speaking of which, the one I bought at the Ford dealership seems to be a 192 (stamped on the bottom) but it has NO hole for bleeding air. I even asked the guy at the parts counter, he said they came like that now...
Anyhow, my main problem right now is getting the T-stat housing off, as I said in another post, one of the bolts is so close to the alternator bracket, I can't fit anything on it to loosen it. I can't imagine that i'm the only one with this problem, anybody?
M
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Guys keep in mind that when the temp isnt warm enough, the computer will be running in "open loop" mode, meaning the computer isnt controlling stuff.
All newer vehicles run in open loop when they are cold, and when they reach a certain temp, the computer switches to closed loop and takes over.
Open loop mode will result in more fuel being dumped in (a cold motor),will result in less MPG and wont pass a smog test.
They need to be warmed up to a certain temp for the computer to take over fuel management.
All newer vehicles run in open loop when they are cold, and when they reach a certain temp, the computer switches to closed loop and takes over.
Open loop mode will result in more fuel being dumped in (a cold motor),will result in less MPG and wont pass a smog test.
They need to be warmed up to a certain temp for the computer to take over fuel management.
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Hmm, thanks for the info Illateralus..
But although this is all good info, it's not useful right now, I can't change the t-stat. I'll get to it somehow!!
But one thing I have to say, i'm thinking maybe the t-stat that's in there is a cooler one, actually, this would make sense as it would almost act like a "stuck open" t-stat once at operating temps... We'll see when I manage to get to it.
But although this is all good info, it's not useful right now, I can't change the t-stat. I'll get to it somehow!!
But one thing I have to say, i'm thinking maybe the t-stat that's in there is a cooler one, actually, this would make sense as it would almost act like a "stuck open" t-stat once at operating temps... We'll see when I manage to get to it.
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OK, little update.
Took the Ranger for a few kilometers today, temp gauge didnt' climb past the top of the "C"...
Upon returning home, I took out the infrared temp gauge and went hunting, here's what I found:
I probed the t-stat housing, it was around 165F-170F
I probed the Radiator, it was sitting around the same temps +/- 170
This tells me that the T-stat is open since the rad and the t-tstat housing are at the same temps.
So, here's the question of the day, is it possible for a t-stat to open this low? say like 160 or 170? Maybe from being really old??? I'm having it changed tomorrow, but would like to know.
Took the Ranger for a few kilometers today, temp gauge didnt' climb past the top of the "C"...
Upon returning home, I took out the infrared temp gauge and went hunting, here's what I found:
I probed the t-stat housing, it was around 165F-170F
I probed the Radiator, it was sitting around the same temps +/- 170
This tells me that the T-stat is open since the rad and the t-tstat housing are at the same temps.
So, here's the question of the day, is it possible for a t-stat to open this low? say like 160 or 170? Maybe from being really old??? I'm having it changed tomorrow, but would like to know.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
IMO it's possible the thermostat is stuck open, or maybe someone has installed a lower operating temperature thermostat.
The engine needs the specified temp thermostat, for all to work as designed, including the crankcase lubricant!!!! A lower operating temp does the engine no favors at all.
The engine needs the specified temp thermostat, for all to work as designed, including the crankcase lubricant!!!! A lower operating temp does the engine no favors at all.