it would give an interesting "grill mark" to the steak, that's for sure :-)

 

mediaman,
for the P1442 code, look for a vacuum hose pulled off evac canister or vacuum vapor line back to tank or failed valve

you have either the post '95TM improved heads or the later 4L lean burn heads....both of which have casting improvements but will still crack if overheated.....sin of modern thin cast light weight heads

 

where is the evac canister? is it like the old "soup can" on my Dad's old 400 :-) Also, which failed valve are you referring to? is there an Evac valve somewhere?

will this problem cause a performance issue of any kind? does it damage anything else if I just let it go?

I currently don't have any codes (no CEL on) but my scan tool wouldn't give me a green light either for the evac system -

 

Is the EVAC system the thing that applies vacuum to the carbon canister to suck out any gas fumes it accumulated? That's located on the frame rail under the air intake tube. There are heater and AC hoses that can get in the way of access. There should be a small solonoid that opens and closes the vacuum line on it.

 

This is an Explorer, not an aero - but maybe they mounted them in a similar area - I'm still wondering if any EVAC code or problem would cause the engine to run rough the first 30 seconds it's been started - that is my next problem to find I guess. I currently get no codes now - but the scan tool won't clear the evac system yet

 

Hello !! I love my 96 awd 4.0 aerostar ( 2 tone red/gold )...my kids grew up with this truck, been coast to coast ( Vancouver to Nova Scotia ,PEI / Seattle to Florida ! ) Just love driving always get me there. I enjoy reading the column and made me join with u guy's and to share my experience same as u people with my Aerostar. I originally enjoy my first Aero - '89 3.0 L extended Eddie Bauer ( 2 tone blue/gold ) I bought my '96 new - about 95% dealers service ( other 5% w/ my old reliable mechanic ) the reason I take it ford dealer is because of my extended warranty which just expired last year at 145m klm, yes only 157,000 klm as we speak. warranty is not worth it because it never had any major problem..just normal wear and tear. Guy's just recently I had the same rough first start and goes away after 10-20 seconds..but just got worst, diagnose as missfire #4, dealer scare me away to what they think it's major work, so i took it to my old mechanic and we did tune up - new wire/plugs etc. Aero runs great but not 100 % ( i know my baby ) A year later rough starts came back and getting worst, but when I got to my mechanic to have it check..rough problem gone ! he diagnose and getting same reading - missfire # 4 , we are going to replace " coil pack " this week-end, and I'll let you know then... I read all these column here but all that was mention was something else like EGR and crack heads ? ( oh my ) ..
Any suggestion ?? thank you !!

PDL

 

Hi 96awdtoronto:

Welcome to our FTE forum

If the van was never overheated, don't worry about cracked head. The 4.0L is not that fragile.

 

Thank you to clarify that for me..whew !!!
I just hope it's not a major problem..will still see if problem will correct by replacing the "coil pack " , and also never heard anyone complaining for a verry little room to work on the engine.. lol..I guess why bother.

Jdc

 

hi 96toronto,

any PCM codes? perhaps P0304? please post

what is condition of spark plugs especially #4?
have your mechanic run a compression and leakdown test, comparing #4 to others

test for vacuum leak around intake manifold above #4 with propane or spray carb. cleaner...even if no leak found, retorque all intake manifold and plenum bolts

pull #4 injector and examine for deposits....if any found, pull all and have professionally ultrasonically cleaned and spray tested for pattern and balance...needs to be less than 10% variation in output

yes, most Ford dealers run the other way when an Aerostar pulls up to the service door....
remember, the best things come in tight small packages
rappelez-vous, les meilleures choses viennent en petits paquets serrés

bonne chance

 

It's not the hardest thing I've ever worked on, but it could be close :-)

I knew my original post would have 96 speaking french before it was all said and done :-)

I was wondering still about my 4.0L - on my Exp - should I be able to leave the Rad cap off when cold, and have nothing coming out the top when the engine is idling? It just seeps over the top, doesn't shoot out or anything... but it does run over... lightly.

When I cap it, and check the overflow, I don't see any bubbles at all - at idle -

On my 3.0L aero- if I do this, it never overflows - in fact, it will lower a bit...esp if you goose it, you can see it get sucked down the neck... and when you let it go back to idle, it will come back up the neck

Should the 4.0L be acting the same way? or did something change because it's in an exp, vs an aero, or is it more comon on 4.0L's to have this happen? - again, it's not gushing out, just a light over the lip flow?

I guess I should get something to check if there is any exhaust in the antifreeze - HydroCarbons?

This is a 4x4 btw - and a 1996 with the PushRod 4 - Thanks

 

Je suis confused!!!!

 

Mediaman,

That action that you see, the coolant level lowering when you goose the engine, is normal for all cars with the new style of radiators with horizontal tubes. The increased rpm will start pumping more fluid through the system, where they will end up on the tank on the side opposite of the cap. They flow a little slowly through the tubes, giving the appearance of decreasing level.

But if you had kept the rpms up, you would have seen the level go back up, as the pump will build up more coolant pressure, and the coolant will come through the tubes faster.

 

thank you 96_4wdr, i will defenitely have all check those mentioned w/ my mechanic..I'm on my way to fix my "baby"..the condition of my #4 spark pl was not so good the last time we changed it last summer..but that was only about a year old spark plg, the original one never replaced until over 100m klm for regular maintenance schedule.thanks guy's for some info...wish me luck !!
Jdc

 

Just came back from garage and nothing resolve..code P0304 - #4 missfire.
Spark plgs ok, wires ok , compession on # 4 s/p check ok ,injector flushed done last summer and now we replaced what my mechanic suspected as faulty "coil pack " ...unfortunately 96awd still shaky ...
As I mentioned earlier..96awd very rough at start and will speed up until around 35 ml but it won't go any faster after that, but I noticed in 2 occasion after about 1/2 hr driving or about after 12 ml it'll run smoother and better the longer I drive it, and once I got to his garage seems shaky problem goe's away.
It start shaking again when he drove it inside the garage.
well I had no choice but had to leave my 96awd with him and he will further check all compression as well as all injectors - a lot of man hrs to do these,it's going to hurt in the pocket but I have no choice.HELP !!any feed back will be appreciated !!

Jdc

 

what color and any deposits on #4 plug?

vacuum leak at #4 intake port or a small coolant leak into #4

do a leakdown pressure test on #4 and several others for comparison
what did the compression test read across several holes for comparison...should be no more than 10% variation

with that much shaking goin on you have more than 1 cylinder missing....check base timing 10d BTDC, cam chain may be worn or jumped hear tooth, how old is cam chaing gear set?
also, pull and clean EGR, may be stuck open

Aeros sont une chose de l'AMOUR