96 Explorer Brake MC
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
96 Explorer Brake MC
96 Explorere Sport - 4WD - 4 wheel ABS
Brake light comes on. I pull it into the garage and notice that the brake fluid is a bit low and some is runnning down the front of the power booster. Bad brake master cylinder - I need to replace it. Go to autoparts store and by a remanufactured one, no problem.
I open my Haynes manual and it states:
"Warning: On 1996 and earlier models equipped with four-wheel Anti-lock Brake system (ABS), do not attempt to remove the brake master cylinder. Have the master cylinder replaced at a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop. Removing a brake master cylinder from an ABS system can allow air to get into the ABS hydraulic control unit, which requires a special bleeding procedure impossible to perform at home."
WTF????? Has anyone heard of this or is this some sort of alarmist warning from the folks who wrote the manual. Any help would be appreciated.
Brake light comes on. I pull it into the garage and notice that the brake fluid is a bit low and some is runnning down the front of the power booster. Bad brake master cylinder - I need to replace it. Go to autoparts store and by a remanufactured one, no problem.
I open my Haynes manual and it states:
"Warning: On 1996 and earlier models equipped with four-wheel Anti-lock Brake system (ABS), do not attempt to remove the brake master cylinder. Have the master cylinder replaced at a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop. Removing a brake master cylinder from an ABS system can allow air to get into the ABS hydraulic control unit, which requires a special bleeding procedure impossible to perform at home."
WTF????? Has anyone heard of this or is this some sort of alarmist warning from the folks who wrote the manual. Any help would be appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
I'd try it, I guess the worse you’ll have to do is take it to the dealer to get it bled, at least you’ll cut down on the labor bill.
I would bench bleed the new one first (always do that anyway). Then make sure the lines are full as possible right when connecting them and then crack the lines lose and push the pedal down (use two wrenches and do both at the same time), let a little fluid come out (and air), hold the pedal (not allowing it to come up any) and then tighten both lines to get rid of any little bit of air at the connection point. Or at least as much as possible.
That should greatly reduce, or eliminate any air going to the ABS system.
Dan
I would bench bleed the new one first (always do that anyway). Then make sure the lines are full as possible right when connecting them and then crack the lines lose and push the pedal down (use two wrenches and do both at the same time), let a little fluid come out (and air), hold the pedal (not allowing it to come up any) and then tighten both lines to get rid of any little bit of air at the connection point. Or at least as much as possible.
That should greatly reduce, or eliminate any air going to the ABS system.
Dan
Last edited by danr1; Sep 14, 2006 at 04:41 PM. Reason: wording
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
Originally Posted by aquanaut20
best way to do this is to back bleed the system
bleed the master on the bench,
install it and then pump fluid up from the wheel cylinders, displacing any air into the master cyl res.
bleed the master on the bench,
install it and then pump fluid up from the wheel cylinders, displacing any air into the master cyl res.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...s-stay-on.html
