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I'm expecting the new cam today.Just wanted to ask for any kind of help you guys would offer. It's been 30 years since I changed one, and that was in a small block chevy.
Here' what I got 76 f250 4x4, remanufactured 390,mirror 105 block, c4ae-g heads, performer rpm intake, 600 holley, headers.I'm going with the Comp 33-234-4 (Rusty's advice) and new lifters.
Any help, comments, or advice would sure be appreciated.Thank you very much.
On an FE block whenever you disassemble the valvetrain you need to be sure that all of the pushrods get back into the same position that they came out of.
Besides that, it's a real straight forward take it all apart and put it all back together occurance.
I'd check all the cam bearing journals to make sure they aren't worn or scored. If they are, it would be prudent to change the bearings.
If the cam comes out with the journals all nice and shiny, no scoring, slap the new one in and be happy
And Justin is correct about keeping the pushrods in order.
However, it would be prudent to check the valve clearances, just in case the base circle of the cam is smaller (or larger) than the stock cam, or the new lifters are even slightly different lengths.
I've never worrried about pushrod order and never had problems. When you install the cam, apply a thin film of assembly lube to the lobes and lifter bottoms only. Do not slather it on. The two cam failures I had were due to, too much lube, and this keeps the cam lobe from gripping the lifter bottom enough to keep it from spinning the lifter in it's bore at initial fire-up. Use either a nondetergent oil for break-in or a diesel spec oil. Also make sure each lifter will spin freely in it's bore when you drop them in.