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I searched but the forum didn't seem to go back far enough to answer this. I was planning on going out and doing this right now but realized I wasn't exactly sure how to go about it.
Pull the pan off I suppose - That gets most of it? What about the converter. My ATF is still pretty red - but it might be a little darker than I'd like. Leave the fluid in the converter or not? how involved is the converter change? Mecron-V is pretty much the only choice? I'm not sure I plan to use sythetic but - any ATF synthetic will do or what? If I don't drain the converter about how much fluid should I buy - and if I do - do I need to refill the converter and how?
Yep, drop the pan, really messy job. Make sure you do it somwhere that you don't mind oil stains.
Remove the rubber plug from the bottom of the bellhousing. Roll the engine over by hand to expose the plug on the TC, the other half of the fluid in there. Blow out the cooler lines. Flushing them is better. THis will clean the tranny cooler.
Measure the fluid you took out. Put that much in for starters.
You'll get a lot of opinions on the fluid. Synthetic is for best high heat application (lots of towing), Mercon V is a synthetic blend IIRC, or just use the stuff in the specified in the owners manual.
Well - I followed one of the articles that said to pull the return line off the back of the tranny and run the engine untill you got the first bubbles. I did that but probably only got maybe a gallon and a half out? it was nowhere near 16qts of whatever. I was under the impression that the tranny would nearly drain itself even though I didn't see how this was possible. The new Mecron/DecronIII smelled pretty much just like what came out so I guess I was prolly fine - just overfilled. Now I think I'm a little low - have to put some more in tommorow.
The only Rotela that people carry around here is 5w30 and 15w40... I don't really like the idea of 5w oil in a 200K+ engine... Has anyone run into problems in the winter with 15w40? Should I keep looking for 10w30?
Running a tranny with a tranny line disconnected or with 6 qts of fluid missing is not good advice. What exactly what the reason for this?
The owners manual lists the engine oil specs to use and what temperatures they should be used. I have run rotella 15w40 year round even here in the cold north with no trouble, but a bit noisy until it warmed. I've been using 10w30 rottela synthetic for a year or so. Quiets down the cold starts.
Yes - I've looked at the chart... They are listing 15w40 down to 0F - Just wondering what happens below 0. I wouldn't think that thick oil would do any damage but I'd expect it could cause problems for the PSD injection system.
Ford explicitly states that Mercon V is NOT to be used in the E4OD. If switching to synthetic, use one that's Mercon III compatible, like Mobil 1. Draining the tranny by disconnecting the line can be done, but you have to add fluid each time it starts to bubble until you've drained about 18 qt. That still leaves all the gunk in the pan and filter, which is why I never change my oil that way.
Drop the pan slowly while catching the oil coming over the edge of the pan, drop the converter shield, rotate engine by hand until t/c plug is straight down, then drain t/c. Disconnect both cooler lines, hook up a can of LubeGuard cooler flush & spray it thru the cooler & lines. Remove filter & serated oring. Remove & clean pan magnet. Reassemble with new filter (and gasket, if cork), torque pan bolts to 12 ft-lb. Add 6qt Mercon III compatible fluid & 1-1/2 pt Red LubeGuard. Start truck & add 8qt more fluid. Shift tranny thru the gears a couple times, then check & fill fluid to cold-full level.