A couple quick questions
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: East Central Indiana
A couple quick questions
Just a few quick questions about my truck.
I have a 1978 F-250 ranger 3/4 ton 4x4
it has Dana 44 front, Dana 60 rear
What gear ratio are the axles? 4.10?
Does the rear have a limited slip diff in it? or just a normal diff?
What should my dc voltmeter gauge read optimally? It has always hovered right in the middle, with or with-out battery. Does it need fixed? How can I test to see if it works?
Sorry if these questions are a little stupid.
I have a 1978 F-250 ranger 3/4 ton 4x4
it has Dana 44 front, Dana 60 rear
What gear ratio are the axles? 4.10?
Does the rear have a limited slip diff in it? or just a normal diff?
What should my dc voltmeter gauge read optimally? It has always hovered right in the middle, with or with-out battery. Does it need fixed? How can I test to see if it works?
Sorry if these questions are a little stupid.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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The Topic should be in the thread title.
The ford gauge is an "Ammeter" that measure amps not a volt meter.
A voltmeter would constantly measure the battery voltage ie: 12.8v - 15.5v
Rear axle info you require if not seen on the axle tag or the door tag (if original) would have to be verified by pullin it apart and checking for sure.
4.10 was only One of a few ratios.
3.54's & 3.73's were also available.
What does the door tag axle code say it is ?
The ford gauge is an "Ammeter" that measure amps not a volt meter.
A voltmeter would constantly measure the battery voltage ie: 12.8v - 15.5v
Rear axle info you require if not seen on the axle tag or the door tag (if original) would have to be verified by pullin it apart and checking for sure.
4.10 was only One of a few ratios.
3.54's & 3.73's were also available.
What does the door tag axle code say it is ?
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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Proper voltage would be 13.8-14.2 V with a fully charged battery, but like Dennis said the stock gage is an ammeter.
Check the Read First: FAQ thread at the top of the 73-9 forum for how to determine the axle ratio from the data plate or from moving the wheel.
Check the Read First: FAQ thread at the top of the 73-9 forum for how to determine the axle ratio from the data plate or from moving the wheel.
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: East Central Indiana
sorry for not displaying the topic
I just looked at the info tag in the door jam, and it says "B4A" which when looked up it said it was a Dana 60 limited-slip with 4.10 gears, which is what I expected.
About the ammeter gauge, ever since I can remember the gauge has pointed dead center. It never seems to move at all. Is this normal?
Thanks for your patience.
I just looked at the info tag in the door jam, and it says "B4A" which when looked up it said it was a Dana 60 limited-slip with 4.10 gears, which is what I expected.
About the ammeter gauge, ever since I can remember the gauge has pointed dead center. It never seems to move at all. Is this normal?
Thanks for your patience.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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The ammeters go bad and quit working.
They usually show a value if the battery got discharged and the engine is revved up to boost the charge back up in the battery.
They hardly ever move if a battery is completely charged.
They usually show a value if the battery got discharged and the engine is revved up to boost the charge back up in the battery.
They hardly ever move if a battery is completely charged.
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: East Central Indiana
I pulled the diff out of another truck similiar to mine, figuring it would be a good idea to have a spare. I didn't think to check the door tags axle code. The truck is now gone. How can I tell what gear ratio it is and whether or not it's limited slip?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Southern Oregon USA
You can count the teeth on the ring and the pinion and divide them to get the ratio.
To tell if it is a limited slip or not: on an open differential, you will be able to see the spider gears in the diff. If it is a limited slip, the diff case is enclosed and you can't see any of the clutches or gears without disassembly.
Jason
To tell if it is a limited slip or not: on an open differential, you will be able to see the spider gears in the diff. If it is a limited slip, the diff case is enclosed and you can't see any of the clutches or gears without disassembly.
Jason
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: East Central Indiana
Well then I've got a problem.
When I changed the seal on my rear end (the truck I kept) the diff was open and you could see the internals (it didn't look like limited slip, although I had always been told it was) Yet when I looked at the door tag axle codes, it said it had a Dana 60 4.10 limited-slip. And I'm positive the diff has never been changed. The one I took out of the junk truck looks exactly the same (although I haven't compared them side by side)
When I had my trucks (the one I kept) rear end jacked up, we turned the wheels (checking for sticky drum brakes) When turning one wheel the other would turn in the same direction, you had to physically hold the other wheel in order to turn them seperately. We figured this was due to the limited-slip...
Do you know for sure that the stock limited-slip diffs had closed off internals? Or is something amiss here...
Regardless, thanks for your input.
When I changed the seal on my rear end (the truck I kept) the diff was open and you could see the internals (it didn't look like limited slip, although I had always been told it was) Yet when I looked at the door tag axle codes, it said it had a Dana 60 4.10 limited-slip. And I'm positive the diff has never been changed. The one I took out of the junk truck looks exactly the same (although I haven't compared them side by side)
When I had my trucks (the one I kept) rear end jacked up, we turned the wheels (checking for sticky drum brakes) When turning one wheel the other would turn in the same direction, you had to physically hold the other wheel in order to turn them seperately. We figured this was due to the limited-slip...
Do you know for sure that the stock limited-slip diffs had closed off internals? Or is something amiss here...
Regardless, thanks for your input.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Southern Oregon USA
A Power Lock will be fully enclosed, the Track Loc will be somewhat open like a standard open differential. Only had Power lock on my mind 
The majority that I've seen in these years have been Power Locks.
To test for limited slip, jack both rear wheels off the ground with trans in neutral. Have someone hold one wheel still while you try to turn the other. If it is a functional limited slip, you should not be able to turn it.
If it is worn out or an open differential, you should be able to turn it easily.
Jason
The majority that I've seen in these years have been Power Locks.To test for limited slip, jack both rear wheels off the ground with trans in neutral. Have someone hold one wheel still while you try to turn the other. If it is a functional limited slip, you should not be able to turn it.
If it is worn out or an open differential, you should be able to turn it easily.
Jason
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: East Central Indiana
Me and my dad just jacked up the truck and tried rotating and holding the wheels. It resisted quite a bit, but we were able to turn the wheels independantly.
So I guess my diff needs replaced (if I want limited slip anyways)
But is it normal for that diff to go bad after only 60k miles?
So I guess my diff needs replaced (if I want limited slip anyways)
But is it normal for that diff to go bad after only 60k miles?