Setting 2.8L Valvelash.
I'm wondering if someone can tell me the process for setting the valve lash on the 2.8L carbureted motor for an 85 Ranger.
I saw another post that said the clearences, which I wrote down, but I need to know how to do it.
I know you set number 1 cylinder at TDC on compression, then adjust some intake and some exhaust then set it at TDC on exhaust and adjust the rest, however, I don't know which to adjust..
Anything would help. I'm used to 4 cylinder motors with OHC so this is more difficult to wrap my head around.
Also I hear the 2.8L's are well known for.. uh.. exploding? Is this because of their design and can be corrected, or does it depend how you drive it?
thanks.
-Terry
https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
The method you mention is one way, but I like to do each cylinder individually which lets me keep track of which ones I've done a little better. Here's a good way to find TDC for each cylinder:
The cylinders are all paired, so look at the dist. cap and the diagram below to see what cylinders are opposite each other in the firing order:
As you can see, #1 and #5 are opposite, then #4 and #3 followed by #2 and #6. With this info, pop the cap and turn the engine by hand to bring #1 up to TDC with the rotor pointing to where the #1 terminal sits on the dist. cap. Both valves should be fully closed and the valves on #5 should right in between cycles, that is to say they look closed but the exhaust valve has just closed and the intake is just opening. You can set the valves on #1 now, then move the engine a little to bring the rotor to #4. Verify by looking at the valves for #3 as you turn the motor and seeing them both moving as the rotor comes into poistion. Now you can do #4 and then move on, going around the dist. in the firing order till you've done all 6. Not hard at all!
As for the 2.8 being an exploder, I think that's an undeserved reputation. It's a good, reliable little motor. I've seen them built and turboed and still hold together well. Don't sweat it.
Last edited by TigerDan; Dec 10, 2006 at 11:41 AM.
And I think that 7.3 turbo might be a little big...(can you say "turbo lag? There! I knew you could!)
I figure I'll run the 2.8 till it gives me problems. I did the waterpump the other day and man that was a task.. the pump wasnt too bad, neither was the fan, but lining up the thermostat housing to the pump, to the thermostat, to that return (or feed) line at the top rad hose housing.. damn.. youd think there'd be more thought put into that one..
took forever for me to get it to burp it's air bubble too.
guess it took so long to burp cause there was no water at the back of the thermostat.. oh well, a lesson learned.
you got any other tips for doing the valve lash? anything weird I need to knwo before I dive in
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in fact, I replaced the rocker assemblies and pushrods.. shoulda seen the old ones. once I figure out how to upload pics I'll put up one or two.
so much play in the rockers that even when adjusted all the way they still flopped around
luckily I thought ahead and grabbed the rocker assemblies and pushrods from an autowreckers the day before (:
well, woke the truck up a bit. now instead of just bogging in a high gear, the clutch just slips... yay!
oh well. clutches are easy.
thanks tigerdan.
But I'm glad it all worked out for you. I love a happy ending...
made a huge difference, no doubt the best thing I've done to the motor yet.
the passage in the intake, that basically runs between the heads and connects to the EGR valve was completely plugged with uh.. I don't know, but I had to remove it with a chisel.
still not the tire-roasting machine I'd like but that tip sure did help quite a bit.. plus my valve covers don't leak now, so thats a bonus in itself.
so thanks for that suggestion, and all the other ones too.
-Terry




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