Hi!

I just bought a 1961 unibody v8, 292, automatic for 400$. It has a great body (baby blue/ white with matching wood racks) with minor rust in the bed, it has a metal dash and everything in the cab appears to be original, has a broken speedometer cable, a jerryrigged shift column, radio that doesn't work, the holley carb needs to be rebuildt, and the heat/fan/defrost just went out today. It does have a new battery, wheel bearings, king pins, and distributor. I really want to make this truck reliable transportation and I really want it to run well. I do love it!!! ;-) Besides rebuilding the carb, how can I get more power from this truck? It seems to barely make it to 55mph on flat ground and loses momentum on slightly steeper grades; if not warmed up it stalls after a complete stop if not put in low gear; and it eats alot of gas as it is. Also, what do you think about the heat/fan/defrost? Any help would be deeply appreaciated!
Thanks so much,

Jen
Joseph, Oregon

 

Jen, You own one of the most beautiful trucks ever built. Congratulations! $400.00 is a real deal. I advise that you start with the basics. Warm the engine and do a compression check. All the tuning in the world will not have a happy outcome unless you have acceptable compression. After that, do a complete tune up, plugs, points, and distributor cap, sparkplug wires, oil, fuel and air filter. The carburetor problem (rich), may be a stuck choke or incorrect ignition timing. And maybe one of a 100 or so other, or combination of other problems. Check to be sure that the new distributor is the right one for your engine. Not to worry at least your truck runs. Change the transmission fluid and filter, and check to see if the rear differential has the proper amount of gear lube. Test the anti-freeze and change it if it looks bad. Get out the grease gun and give the truck a good lube. The shifting business is next in my opinion. You can buy the shift collar, and shifter handles from any 61 through 72 will work. Exactly what part of the shift column is jerry rigged? With an automatic transmission you need a neutral start switch. This switch prevents starting the truck in gear and is a primary safety concern. Check the fuse block for a burnt out fuse for the heater. How are your brakes? Don't worry about the tail gate for now. Don't worry about the radio. After you get your truck running right it will go over 50 miles per hour and you wont be able to hear a radio anyway. Lately I have been finding 61-64 regular cab in some of my local junk yards, most of the parts from these will fit on your truck. The uni-body is a rare truck and it sounds like you have one of the best, not all chopped up and a 292 V8 automatic to boot. Get a Dennis Carpenter catalog 1-800 476-9653, and one from LMC Truck 1 800 222-5664. Post back and if you decide to sell your truck, Please let us know!
William in Atlanta

 

Hey if you want to save some money on collom shifter parts call or visit Jeffs bronco graveyard. Places like Macs and Carpenders get around $50 for the shift collar sleave! Jef has them for $20. On the site he has an exploded veiw of the collum so you can sorta see what your getting in to.

44Dwarf

No i don't work there. Just aways had great luck with them. Inexpencive and fast shiping.

 

Hi William,

I just wanted to thank you for your reply and your advice.

It is a beautiful truck and I love it more everyday... I don't think I'll be selling it anytime soon, but thanks! :+

I would love more advice on how to get it running well. Here's everything I've done with it since I bought her...

New battery, front wheel bearings/ oil seals, king pin set, wheel cylander kit, air cleaner, block heater, and fixed leak in brake line.
Flushed radiator, changed oil and filter, brake fluid, and fixed short for heat (wiring problem).

Current problems...

Need to replace speedometer cable and cable for temperature gauge (easy enough), the tranny pan leaks and probably just needs to be tightened, one bad U-joint, and the carb still needs to be rebuildt/ replaced (see my newest post on the carb problems I'm having under 1961 fords), and the shift collar still needs to be replaced. I believe I need to get a new shift collar, gearshift insulator and pin shift lever... I think the shift lever with **** may still be functional if I replace the other parts. It does have a dangerous problem of jumping out of park into reverse. I also found out it doesn't have a thermostat which doesn't seem to be a problem at the moment. I'm currently ordering the steering parts and speedometer cable from LMC truck but am having a problem identifying my carb and what I need to fix it. That is my biggest problem at the moment...

If you have anymore advice, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks again,

Jen (Joseph, OR)

 

 

It seems that I need to replace my shift collar for my manual '61 unibody. I am interested in the assertion that any collar/lever from 61-72 works. Is this true? Also 44dwarf mentions Jeff's Bronco Graveyard - are the steering column parts for the 66-72 Broncos interchangable with the f-100 and are usable for my truck? Lastly, is there a resource available here or elsewhere that I can find this type of information?

Thanks,
-Ralph

 

Ralph, Welcome to FTE! Most of the upper column bits and pieces are the same. I would collect the parts from the junk yard and practice on a junk column, then yank yours out for a rebuild.

 

I have a 62 longbed that is just awsome. Even tho mine is far from stock it is a reliable ride that is very unusual it a subtle way.
Is your truck stock with a auto? or has it been swaped in? check the bell cranks where the shift rod and the rod also for wear. there are bushings that go in the bell cranks that when worn will not give you enough travel to allow you to put the tranny in park. I had a 72 that gave me a problem like this the plastic bushings and the rod was worn to the point the it would not go fully into park and would jump out at times. Another difference in the unibody and the other ford trucks is that the door body lines are different.