cant figure it out
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Joined: Aug 2006
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cant figure it out
I was just given an 87 f 150, manual tranny, fuel injected 302 not dura spark II ignition but the newer ignition. The thing doesnt run, Ive replaced the module on the distributor and tried three different computers but im still not getting spark and i cant hear the fuel pump(s) priming when i turn the key to the on position, all i hear is a tick in the engine compartment when the key is in the on position.
I smell fuel in the throttle body. And when i check the coil for power when turning the engine over there is not a break in the voltage just a constant 12 or so volts. can any one help in this situation????
I smell fuel in the throttle body. And when i check the coil for power when turning the engine over there is not a break in the voltage just a constant 12 or so volts. can any one help in this situation????
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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Check the pickup module inside the dizzy. The way it's set up, the ECC must get a signal from the thing inside the dizzy before it will allow ignition. Another possibility is a fusable link has burnt somewhere not sending a voltage to the brain. There are several feeds to the brain that must be up and running or the brain doesn't allow ignition. Among these are the fuel pump relay circut and the emergency cut off switch in that circut that kicks in, in case of an accident.
Last edited by P51D Mustang; Aug 31, 2006 at 01:43 PM.
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I have checked all the fuseable links all good except for the one going into the coil it has a red and a green wire into it with one green wire goin to the coil. no power at either end. could this be a problem source. also there are two wires same color white with a blue stripe coming frome the harness (1) and one frome the distributor(2) that at one point were cut, one end going to the coil and one going to the capacitor beside the coil. the wire from the harness (1) has power when the key is on. does that wire go to the coil or the capacitor??? also when wire (1) is conected to the coil the coil has about 12 volts. but when turning the motor over there is no break in the circuit for spark at the distributor. ?????
and the inertia switch wasnt tripped so i will check the pickup in the distributor and the fuel pump relay
thanks
any more info would be appreciated!!!
and the inertia switch wasnt tripped so i will check the pickup in the distributor and the fuel pump relay
thanks
any more info would be appreciated!!!
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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I don't know on that particular rig. You may need to find a full wiring diagram and then a electrical componant locator chart.
These circuts are extremely complex. I once had to deal with a ECC IV system that had had the wiring harness chopped in half by the cooling fan. I thought I had tryed everything, all the relays, all the links, all the fuzes, the TFI module, everything... I spent two weeks tracing lines and testing circuts, and even tryed a different brain. I finially found an obscure burnt link in the middle of a wiring harness in the engine compartment that wasn't known about or listed.
It could be the TFI module, and I hope for your sake it is.
These circuts are extremely complex. I once had to deal with a ECC IV system that had had the wiring harness chopped in half by the cooling fan. I thought I had tryed everything, all the relays, all the links, all the fuzes, the TFI module, everything... I spent two weeks tracing lines and testing circuts, and even tryed a different brain. I finially found an obscure burnt link in the middle of a wiring harness in the engine compartment that wasn't known about or listed.
It could be the TFI module, and I hope for your sake it is.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
check out www.fordfuelinjection.com its possible your harness is shot but i would hope not.
there should be an inertia switch under the dash near the ecu i believe that would contol the fuel pumps. are you using an ecu from that year of rig
there should be an inertia switch under the dash near the ecu i believe that would contol the fuel pumps. are you using an ecu from that year of rig
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,558
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
Both the fuel pump relay and the EEC relay are mounted side by side on the rear side of the air filter housing. The fuel pump relay is green and the EEC relay is brown.
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it runs but......
The obd1 says my egr valve isnt closing properly and ive got a problem with cyl 8. i did a compression test and all cylinders are 145 but 8 is 35 pounds, it doesnt smoke and at idle it sounds like an exhaust leak. it only rattles when the engine is revved up???? any suggestions? maybe the valve is to loose i dunno any help would be great.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
87, Hi and Welcome to FTE! Please take a moment to check out the Guidelines, they contain important info that you'll need when posting on the site:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
So are you saying you got it going now? Or was this how it ran before it quit? If number 8 is only 35psi while the others are all at 145, then you have a problem with that cylinder for sure. Possibly a burnt valve, I'm sorry to tell you. Pull the plug for number 8 and recheck the compression on it, then dump about a tablespoonfull of oil in and check it again. If it comes way up then you have a ring problem, but if it stays the same or only changes by a few pounds then it's the valve. The next thing to look at would be the pushrods and springs. Pull the valve cover on the driver's side and look at number 8. You might get lucky and have a bent pushrod or a collapsed lifter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
So are you saying you got it going now? Or was this how it ran before it quit? If number 8 is only 35psi while the others are all at 145, then you have a problem with that cylinder for sure. Possibly a burnt valve, I'm sorry to tell you. Pull the plug for number 8 and recheck the compression on it, then dump about a tablespoonfull of oil in and check it again. If it comes way up then you have a ring problem, but if it stays the same or only changes by a few pounds then it's the valve. The next thing to look at would be the pushrods and springs. Pull the valve cover on the driver's side and look at number 8. You might get lucky and have a bent pushrod or a collapsed lifter.
Last edited by TigerDan; Sep 4, 2006 at 08:27 PM.
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so here i am again, thank you guys for all the insite. when i go the truck it was a mess, no serpentine belt, alternator, battery, coil, distributor, and the list goes on. i bounced around the local junk yards and pieced it together, then i couldnt figure why it wasnt running, no spark no fuel. then thanx to you guys i was able to locate and replace the eec power relay and the fuel cutoff switch, it runs now but it sucks,
which brings me to another question.
cyl 8 is pretty dead and i pulled the valve cover no sign of collapsed lifter or bent pushrod. now the question is does this mean rings and if so wouldnt the thing be smoking at the exhaust?? it isnt. the code reader says my egr valve isnt closing properly and theres a patter when the motor is running, sounds like an exhaust leak. and the motor idles ruff as hell at around 1000 rpm, then it picks up the idle and runs smooth at 2000 to 2500. when i got the truck the front tank was full, i dont know how long it sat with a full tank so the gas might be bad. also every once in a while it acts like it runs out of gas clunks and chokes then dies.
what could be causing this???
thanks for all the help so far i really needed it, and thanks in advance for help in the future.
which brings me to another question.
cyl 8 is pretty dead and i pulled the valve cover no sign of collapsed lifter or bent pushrod. now the question is does this mean rings and if so wouldnt the thing be smoking at the exhaust?? it isnt. the code reader says my egr valve isnt closing properly and theres a patter when the motor is running, sounds like an exhaust leak. and the motor idles ruff as hell at around 1000 rpm, then it picks up the idle and runs smooth at 2000 to 2500. when i got the truck the front tank was full, i dont know how long it sat with a full tank so the gas might be bad. also every once in a while it acts like it runs out of gas clunks and chokes then dies.
what could be causing this???
thanks for all the help so far i really needed it, and thanks in advance for help in the future.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: western montana
I'd put the teaspoon of oil in 8 and see if the compression changes and like mentioned above that should tell you.
the problem is your now running a V7 and V7's suck- they don't idle right or run right. If it's rings you will need the block out to work on- if the pressure remains about the same you will need to remove the head and take it to a shop to diagnose. No easy solution if the pushrod and lifter is ok.
replacing valve is better than block obviously. Is oil clean? possible head gasket but long shot without smoking unless there is water in oil- it would be milky or antifreeze/water would come out first when draining oil- that would be the best circumstance to fix.
keep us informed...
the problem is your now running a V7 and V7's suck- they don't idle right or run right. If it's rings you will need the block out to work on- if the pressure remains about the same you will need to remove the head and take it to a shop to diagnose. No easy solution if the pushrod and lifter is ok.
replacing valve is better than block obviously. Is oil clean? possible head gasket but long shot without smoking unless there is water in oil- it would be milky or antifreeze/water would come out first when draining oil- that would be the best circumstance to fix.
keep us informed...
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well i took heed of all advice, wich i must thank you all for on this one it boiled down to pulling the head and lone behold the intake valve had a chunk missing so i replaced the entire head from a junk yard now shes ready for a road test tommarow. thank you all for advice and comments much appreciated.