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This is my wife's car and I'm a little frustrated.
The Battery idiot light came on and the voltmeter is showing about 11 volts. I checked all of the wiring and have continuity everywhere I should. I checked for voltage at the regulator plug A- hot all the time from the battery 12.5vdc, I - hot when I turn on the ignition but slightly lower 11.5vdc. Checked continuity from S on the larger plug to the STA plug....all good. Crank up the car and it doesn't charge. Bought a $180 alternator w/regulator, installed and guess what? still no charging!!!!! WTF???
Any ideas?
This is my wife's car and I'm a little frustrated.
The Battery idiot light came on and the voltmeter is showing about 11 volts. I checked all of the wiring and have continuity everywhere I should. I checked for voltage at the regulator plug A- hot all the time from the battery 12.5vdc, I - hot when I turn on the ignition but slightly lower 11.5vdc. Checked continuity from S on the larger plug to the STA plug....all good. Crank up the car and it doesn't charge. Bought a $180 alternator w/regulator, installed and guess what? still no charging!!!!! WTF???
Any ideas?
Check battery (+) to starter cable...known to corrode from inside out.
While you're down there, also check the ground cable from the engine. I'm not sure that's going to be your problem as if it was I'd expect that it wouldn't turn over but hey, you're already right there under the motor looking at the starter cable.
I checked the cables from the alternator to the battery and starter solenoid, etc... I would expect the starter cable or the ground to cause starting probs....could they also relate to charging issues?
I took the old alternator and had it tested. Ooopps. It's ok.
Could it be a dead cell in the Battery?
Check the large cable from the alternator back towards the battery. This cable has a fuseable link spliced into it. If it opens, no juice will get back to the battery from the alternator.
On my 91, the cable ran from the alternator to the solenoid on the inner fender. The fuse link was in the last 6-8 inches of the cable at the soleniod connection. You could NOT see the fault, but removing both ends and it failed a continuity test with a meter.
Mine opened due to an alternator fault that burnt the 1/4 inch stud off the alternator.
Dialtone
Last edited by Dialtone; Aug 30, 2006 at 09:39 PM.
I finally got a chance to look for the real problem. There is a small 2 wire connector that supplies voltage to the 3 wire plug on the alternator. The 2 wire plug is located behind and sort of under the battery. Looked like it had gotten some battery acid on it at some point in it's life and had totally disintergrated. Made up a quick wiring harness to replace it and it's all working now!