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How do I disable fuel cutoff

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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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How do I disable fuel cutoff

Anyone know how to disable the fuel cutoff on a 92 grand marquis with the 4.6. I am prepping the car for figure 8 racing and plan on getting hit a lot. Can I just jump the two wires going to the switch in the trunk or is there more to it.
TIA
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Just jump the wires or wire the pump direct from your ignition ON switch. Remember the oil pressure switch will also disable the engine and the pump thru the computer. There is a lot to setting up a car so it will take a hit, ask some of the old pro's at the track how it is done.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Torque1st
Remember the oil pressure switch will also disable the engine and the pump thru the computer.
Not on a Ford. GM does this, Ford does not. All the oil pressure switch does is run the gauge.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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I think Eric means a special installed Oil Pressure actuating switch T-ed into the O/P sending unit ... like you would put on a carbed engine with new electric fuel pump.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Casey
Not on a Ford. GM does this, Ford does not. All the oil pressure switch does is run the gauge.
Actually Ford does it on all the models I have worked on. Some by hard wiring and some thru the computer. Some computers thru an oil pressure switch and others thru counting ignition pulses. I don't know 100% but I believe it is part of Federal crash safety standards.

There is more info here in this 2001 change document and it points to other older documents. It is the first one I found with a brief search. There are many more. The rules were effective starting in the 70's. http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/...PRM/Index.html
 

Last edited by Torque1st; Aug 30, 2006 at 10:28 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 11:51 AM
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Go to the inertia switch in the trunk (driver's side) this is the button that pops up if you are in a collision. Cut the 2 wires going to it, strip the insulation, and wire nut them together. and that's it. Do it all the time around here for demolition derby cars. The 92 and up crown vics and grand marquis are doing fairly well in this area.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 06:10 AM
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Thank you GLR
Did that and car ran great. Got 3rd in a 40 car enduro race but was taken out early in the demo in a hard head on collision after only 8 or ten othe r hits.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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Head-ons hurt....for the future ...if the demo people let you...get rid of that aluminum bumper and put on a steel one off a 87 or older. Onr bolt out on each frame rail and the shock mount will slide out and replace it with the older bumper. Sell the aluminum one for scrape. Pull the wiring harness from up front and put it in the back towards the firewall. Get rid of the blower motor and A/C unit and make up a bracket to put the battery there. Or if allowed to, put the battery on the floor of the passenger side, or I have seen some withe the pass seat cut out so the battery sits inside the seat.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 04:57 AM
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There are a lot of tricks to making a derby racer more crashworthy. Get rid of anything that can disable the vehicle. Keep all the "vitals" as far from the crash zones as possible.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 06:04 AM
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Had to leave the bumper stock. I did weld the bumper shock absorbers and relocated the battery to the passenger floor. Also welded all doors around the perimeter. Not much was going to help when the left front wheel was against the firewall and the a arm was sticking through the block. They will let you relocate the fuel tank to the trunk but it has to be a fuel cell ---- way to much work with a F.I. car with the pump in the tank.

Thanks
Ted
 
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 07:23 AM
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A-Arm thru the block, that is a bad hit...
 
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Casey
Not on a Ford. GM does this, Ford does not. All the oil pressure switch does is run the gauge.
GM products need this feature!!!!
 
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