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Swapping Hubs, sounds easy, any pointers?

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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:42 AM
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Swapping Hubs, sounds easy, any pointers?

I have a 91 FSB 5.0 that i am switching from auto locking hubs to manual locking hubs. I have searched the forum and searched the web but haven’t found a good tutorial on the matter. I know that there are probably a thousand sites dedicated to the swap but haven’t found it.

Anyways, i have the auto locking hubs with the 5 bolts holding the cap on. I haven't tackled this type of project so i was wondering if anyone had a detailed list w/ photos or knew a good site to direct me to. Also, from what i understand, i don’t need the additional conversion kit b/c i have the 5 bolt set up.

I'm hoping to tackle this after work today so any information would be appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:50 AM
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Also do I need any special tools for the job?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Truthfully, the swap is rather simple and the instructons with the new hubs are pretty straight forward. And unless you are gonna take the hub/rotor assemblies off and service wheel bearings while you are in there, there is no need for anything special except the Allen-type driver for the cap screws and maybe a pair of tiny screwdrivers (jeweler's drivers). The clip around the inside of the hub is easier to get ahold of if youcan get in there with them.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:04 AM
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I have a '96 and did the conversion and needed a special spindle nut socket for the old spindle nut and a different socket for the new nut. Prolly not the same for your year but to remove the retaining ring I got a set of picks from the auto store and made it alot easier.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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bronco driver magazine did this story about 6 months ago and it looked relatively easy. I need to do the same to my '96 I just don't have the time, but with winter fast approaching I had better make time.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 12:04 AM
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66ford99,

Why did you need to remove the hub-to-spindle nut?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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I just doing this on my 96 Bronco.
You can rent the tools need to do the job at Murrays, Advanced ect..
If you return the tools you get all your money back.
You will need to remove the factory spindal nut (just pick up front wheel drive service kit at parts store it has the the correct size). which will be replaced by the conversion nut set. This nut set is exactly what Mother ford used when you ordered manual locking hubs. I used Mile Markers Supreme hubs Part number MMK-402 & Conversion kit PN-MK-95-32720
As advised by other above.
Small screw drivers or picks for the removal of the retaining ring.
Should only take you a couple of hours
Let me know if you need any help.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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I had to buy the spindle nut kit and it came with a different nut, I was also redoing my rotors and pads and calipers at the same time.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 01:25 PM
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Ahh, ok now I understand.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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when I did mine, I used a link I found here on this forum... but I can't get it to re-post (they have to screen any non-sponsor external URLs). maybe a search will help. The page I used had some very detailed photos and descriptions of someone doing the conversion. I hope you can find it.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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'Swapping Hubs, sounds easy, any pointers?

Originally Posted by greystreak92
Ahh, ok now I understand.
I'm guessing by your comment, you still do not understand why the Wheel retainer / Spindle nut needs to be removed and replaced.

But I will try to explain. (I have also posted two pictures on my gallery of the Wheel retainer / Spindle nuts for you to view)
Picture 1)
Picture 2)

Autolocking hubs: Wheel retainer nut is only 5/8" tall, and it actually has two purposes
1) Wheel retainer nut
2) Is machined to accept the Cam assemly of the autolocking hub, it also relies on the cam assembly portion of the autolocking hub to keep the Wheel retainer key in place.

Manual hubs Wheel retainer nuts are really three pieces which are 7/8" tall
Inner lock nut
lockwasher
Outer lock

I hope this clears this matter up for you.

My96Bronco
 
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Actually, yes I understand completely. The truth of the matter is, that I knew the spindle nut design changed at some point late in the production run but wasn't sure exactly when. The older model spindle nuts are no different... two cylindrical nuts requiring the Dana spindle nut wrench with a pin on one nut and a keyed ring that accepts the pin on the first nut to keep it from shifting while you tighten the locknut behind it. I've swapped from autos to manuals on a 92 and there is no change needed to the spindle nuts. The autos come out, the manuals go in.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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So does any of this apply to an '82? I'm going to be digging into mine before winter.
 
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