Killing my battery softly...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 33
From: Swansea SC
Hope this helps u- i had a similar problem with my 1985 f-150(also killed the battery) when i hooked the battery up i heard a relay clicking also. Turned out to be the relay for my choke heater (UNDER DASH) 
. I took the cheap way of fixing it instead of replacing it with a ford 60$$relay. Had acess to relays rewired it to the ignition switch and presto No more killing the battery. Good luck TR
. I took the cheap way of fixing it instead of replacing it with a ford 60$$relay. Had acess to relays rewired it to the ignition switch and presto No more killing the battery. Good luck TR
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 254
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I rechecked mine yesterday annd confirmed that it is the EEC relay. I ran out of daylight but I am sure that it's something to do with the ignition switch as that's how the voltage is routed. It's either bad or misaligned.
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Senior User
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The update. I tried to adjust it to the point where the accessories would power on, as they do not power on whenthe key is turned to the accessory position, but then I couldnt start the truck. And, the damn relay is still closing when power is applied. Some more diagnosis is need obviously...
New User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 6
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The green relay is the fuel pump relay. The grey one is the EEC relay. I am now having the same problem with my 88 f-150 come to find out they are famous for breaking or bending the rod that goes from the tumbler to the switch. Looks like I'll be tearing mine down too. Please let us know what you find.
Last edited by gadams01; Sep 9, 2006 at 07:55 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 2
From: Elkhart IN
gadams is right, they tend to break the connecting rod to the swich, just replaced one in a bronco this week at work, it's somewhat of a tedious job with a tilt wheel and cruise because of the wires, but it's doable.
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I just started a new thread about this but one of the problems that I am having, in addition to the fuel pump relay always being closed, is that there is a LOT of play in the actuator rod assembly. There is enough play that I cannot adjust the ignition switch (which I replaced today) to the point where the key will go to the accessory position and also enable me to start the truck. I guess over time things have become worn and I am looking into replacing the connecting rod or whatever it's called. The upper actuator has been replaced recently so I assume that it's good or at least is not the source of the play.
Last edited by tom2131968; Sep 10, 2006 at 11:25 PM.
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1988 351w
OK, here is the battery killing update. I replaced the ignition switch cause i thought that it might be bad but it didn't fix the problem. I have isolated the problem as being the fact that the fuel pump relay is closing whenever the battery is connected. The coil for the relay is getting 12 volts at all times. I thought that the ignition switch might be out of adjustment as well, but I have determined that this cannot be the problem because the relay still closes even when the ignition switch is totally disconnected. The relay itself is fine too.
Why is the relay coil getting juice when it shouldn't be? What controls power going to the fuel pump relay coil? Any help will be greatly appreciated cause I am tired of disconnecting my battery everyday. Is it just a short somewhere?
OK, here is the battery killing update. I replaced the ignition switch cause i thought that it might be bad but it didn't fix the problem. I have isolated the problem as being the fact that the fuel pump relay is closing whenever the battery is connected. The coil for the relay is getting 12 volts at all times. I thought that the ignition switch might be out of adjustment as well, but I have determined that this cannot be the problem because the relay still closes even when the ignition switch is totally disconnected. The relay itself is fine too.
Why is the relay coil getting juice when it shouldn't be? What controls power going to the fuel pump relay coil? Any help will be greatly appreciated cause I am tired of disconnecting my battery everyday. Is it just a short somewhere?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 153
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From: NW Ohio
Not sure in this specific case, but a lot of times the power to a relay is present all the time, and whatever controls the relay (switch, sensor, computer, etc.) provides the ground to complete the circuit and activate the relay. So you could check the ground side of the relay circuit and see where it goes, also look for damaged wiring providing another path to ground.
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