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I have an Autolite 2100 2 bbl on a 66 F100 352 ci. I am having a fuel feed problem. I have narrowed it down to the Carb, though I dont know how to rebuild it. I know I can do it, have a illustration that shows it broken down, but I am looking for some guidence on processes of repair of valves and the like. anyone have any ideas?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Mar-02 AT 09:18 AM (EST)]Buy a good quality name brand carb kit, read and understand all the instructions before you start,then go for it. I assume (dangerous thing) that you have checked fuel pressure and volume and it meets specs. If you haven't do that first. It sucks having a freshly rebuilt carb that performs the same as before the rebuild because your fuel pump is sour.
I checked the fuel pump by disconnecting it from the carb, turned it over, get fuel. So I am Guessing that the fuel pump is working. When I use some starting fluid. I get it to turn over and run till the starting fluid is exhausted. I am guessing that something is pluged up. The reason I am guessing this is the truck sat untouched for 6 years.
Your carb is going to have to rebuilt.
6 yrs is a long time to have fuel sitting in the bowl and it probably evaporated within the first year or two.
The passages are probably clogged with varnish and will require cleaning. The needle and seat need to be replaced and the gaskets replaced. Rebuilding a 2bbl is fairly easy but tuning it afterwards is the trouble.
Go ahead and give it a shot, you never know unless you try.
Thanks for the advice, though before I tore into the carb I sprayed and soaked the thing with carb cleaner. I got it to run, the next problem though was getting the bad gas that was between the tank and the pump out. Had to almost run the battery dead doing it. Though eventually I got it to go!
I am keeping the rebuild kit till I get a few miles on the truck to see how it goes. Would you still recomend rebuilding it if it runs?
Get three Fram G2 gas filters there big and clear type. Put one in the line right after the 90 deg bend in the line after it passes through the floor board and put the other after the pump but before the carb.
If it sat that long trust me you be glad you put two filters in, the third filter a spare to keep in the glove box.
These are actually very simple carbs to rebuild. I think you should do the rebuild for the sake of fuel mileage at least In a carb that's sat that long there's a good chance the power valve diaphragm is shot. You'll be able to tell by pulling the cover off under the float bowl; if it's wet inside, you need a new p/v. They're included in the kit. In the absence of a quality carb cleaner in a bucket to soak it in, I've had good luck with carb cleaner sprays to clean the inside passages. Just take your time and follow the simple instructions in the kit.
>In a carb that's sat that long there's a good chance the
>power valve diaphragm is shot. You'll be able to tell by
>pulling the cover off under the float bowl; if it's wet
>inside, you need a new p/v.
Would I be able to tell if this part is bad by driving the truck? From lack of power, or how long it takes for the engine to warm up. Or something silly easy like that?
Actually you can tell if your power valve is bad by looking down the carb while the engine is running if raw gas dribbles from the air horn your power valve is bad or your float level is way to high.
The power valve is also called the economizer valve. At idle, the vacuum acting on the bottom side of the valve diaphragm holds it closed. When you step on the gas the vacuum diminishes and the valve opens to provide extra fuel for the transition from idle to cruise. When that diaphragm is blown, from old age or a backfire, the vacuum sucks fuel right through, resulting in maybe a rougher idle and definitely lower mileage.
Haven't had a chance to check for the fuel internaly in the carb, but I do know that the idle is running very smooth, once it's warmed up.
[br] [br]Randy - Just another Ford Lover