took a pic of mine finally, here it is. Its got four "RPM Control" settings 1300,1500,2100,2300. It also has "Charge Protect" Keeps the voltage from dropping below 12.X volts. The PO installed it, he got it out of an ad in the classifieds...so dont ask me where it came from hah

 

nice. i was gonna get one until i saw the price for one. then i wondered what i would even use it for so i forgot about it. looks good though hopfully it works well.

 

its nice for the cold northern winters, fire it up, set it to 1300 rpm and go eat breakfast. How much were they? I think the PO said they were $700cdn, he paid $150 for this one

 

can someone explain a little more what is involved in these auxillary idle controlers.. i live in the northern regions and the 1300 cold idle would be nice.

 

they just plug into a wiring harness that is already there.

i believe there is a way to make one. its not like that but will give you the high idle if that what your after. let me see if i can find a link. i think a new one was like 600 or so.
there is 2 different kinds i think one with display one without. good luck finding a used one.

 

i don't want the display... 600? thats pretty high? I wise I have a hand throttle like on some of the big trucks...

 

enjoy good luck


mod1



mod 3

mod 4


from steves site

AIC MOD
by Sparky
Ok to start off with you will have to go to Radio Shack or similar store and get some parts.

Single Pole Single Throw Switch. Radio Shack pt# 275-612
5K Linear Taper Potentiometer. Radio Shack pt# 271-1714
Linear PART # for the 2K is Radio Shack pt# 900-8587
2 Single Pole Double Throw Auto Relays Radio Shack pt# 900-2391
2 Wiring Harness Plugs Radio Shack pt# 900-2396
18 Gauge Wire
SOLDER
Wire Ties
Butt Connectors
Soldering Gun
Safety Glasses

STEP 1 Switches
Find a power source that is with the key.
Run a wire from there to one side of the switch.
From the other side of the switch run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays
From the other side coil terminals on the relays run a wire to the parking break switch wire. (There is only one wire on the parking brake.)

STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)
As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it. The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires. I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires. (There should be a red/orange with and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)

Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it. The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays.

The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don’t need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.

STEP 3 The other Relay and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it. Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.)

Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch. Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side of the other relay.

Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay.

Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) of the relay and go to the left terminal on the POT.

Now take a wire from the center terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.

Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy

 

not to be nag but is this way cheaper? Thanks for the intstructions

 

hmm well on the couple instructions i posted you can do it for about 40 bucks so that is a 560 savings....

let me look on powerstrokeshop at the different styles and get the part numbers/prices.



APCM (Auxilliary Idle Controller) wiring harness
(Ford) XC3Z-14A411-AA 50.00 on the site


the other ones dont show up but i beleive they arent cheap


APCM (Auxilliary Idle Controller)
(Ford) F5PZ-12B641-AA
(Ford) F5TF-12B641-AD with LCD display


here is one on ebay

 

hey that ebay one has a pto control...our 04 f450s have those ones, but theyre the 6.0L
that auction may be worth while watching. $125 (so far) is a good deal on a new one.

 

its the part number for the 99-03 trucks dont know why it wouldnt work though but i could be wrong?????????

 

well the guy I bought my truck from was an electrical instrumentation tech on oil rigs. He was telling me he thought the idler was for an 98-03 7.3L (which to his knowledge, wouldnt work) but he called and it was for the first gen PSD, so he bought it. Now it wouldnt suprise me if it didnt work...although I dont see why it wouldnt.

 

Yeah, I have one too, I baught my truck, a week later I looked under the seat and I was like WTF is this....., So I installed it and yeah, it works great. I got all the idle presets, going down the highway I know my exact RPM as I can now see the Ford RPM gauges are grossly inaccurate and the idle feature in the winter is so nice. I've tried the charge protect and I dont understand it to much, I hit charge, it shows 14.3 volts at high idle but it nver kicks down, it kinda pisses me off a little but meh, I never use that feature. At work on the 98 E-series with the aux controler they have the PTO option as well, the 01 pwerstroke Aux controlers I see have a 1100 rpm idle vs my 1300rpm idle, I'd prefer the 1100rpm, even though its plugged on over night on a -30C day with a recirculating heater I cycle the key, look at the temp gauge and the needle moves to just under the line for normal range, start the engine and 13 liters of engine oil cools it down fast, then to idle it up to 1300rpm with cold engine oil makes me a little uncomfortable

 

I use the charge protect whenever I jump someone, the more you drain your batts the more it idles up. I agree 1100 rpm would be nicer, but 1300s not too bad. I want a pan heater. Ive got 2 block heaters, but a way to keep my oil warmish would be nice.

 

The 99-04 AIC's will work on our generation trucks as well.

I have the same one pictured in the ebay auction that 1997F-350 posted, and it works fine. I even used the included Superduty bracket after some strategic bending. I bought mine one ebay 2 years ago for $150.

Ken