I hope you'll be patient with me about this because I still don't have it straight.

I purchased a 71 Ford F-250 about 10 years ago. I have almost completely restored it, with one exception: It came with a small, 13-in. after-market steering wheel (Grant style). The turn signals work but they do not self-cancel. (Why someone would put a 13-in. steering wheel on an F-250 that doesn't have power steering is beyond me.)

I am told that the problem is a broken cancelling cam on the turn switch. I pulled the steering wheel, and I THOUGHT I had bought the correct cancelling cam (from Carpenter, Part # C7TZ-13318-A). It is cylindrical-shaped, has an outside diameter of 1", and is 1/2" high. About 1/2" of it is open. The cylinder has a small, half-circle protrusion that extends about 5/16" above the rest of it.

I can't see how this part fits into the switch. I have a spring from the housing that is 1-5/8 in. high that does, however, fit nicely inside the cylinder. Is that significant? One poster told me that the cancelling cam fits right on top of the crescent-shaped switch (the part with a zillion wires coming out of it). Could it be that I have the wrong part? That possibily I need to buy a switch WITH the cancelling cam already installed on it? I should note that I found two or three pieces of broken plastic in the housing when I got into it; the pieces match the crescent-shaped switch.

I will appreciate any insight you can provide.

 

Is this what you bought ?

Click the "Click To enlarge" Link on the upper right

http://blueovaltruckparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=12394



to fit this ?

http://blueovaltruckparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=11719

same "click to enlarge"

 

Paul, in the second picture you will see a large white part fastened on top of a green part.

The white part is what my post said you need to replace, if indeed the cam was bad. I called the white piece the cancelling cam.

The part you may have bought, as Dennis points out, mounts to the underside of the stock steering wheel. I think that part is actually called the canceller - but I may be wrong.

Hope this doesn't confuse you too much!

 

Dennis & Banjopicker: Yes, those are the parts I bought (the white, crescent-shaped piece should arrive from Carpenter tomorrow).

Perhaps you won't mind another question. There is a plate with three holes in it that accepts three bolts that go into the billet (I think that's the right term--it's the part that accommodates the splines on the end of the steering shaft). The bolts are designed to go in only part way (they stick out about 1/4' of an inch above the plate. Why is that the case? Am I missing a piece that's supposed to go on top of the plate? (The previous owner tried to force the bolts down, flush to the heads; not surprisingly, he ended up stripping them. I may have to do a re-tap.)

Many, many thanks for your help.

Paul

 

It's probably because its application is for a car not a truck,.
We need to know which model steering wheel it is.


Does it look like this ?

http://www.steeringwheel.com/shop/?s...thumbval=thumb

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Dennis,

It's exactly like the second one--the Grant kit.

 

Dennis,

I hope you're still out there (you're invaluable!). So, if I buy the Grant kit and have the white, crescent-shaped thing, am I good to go with my F-250?

I'm probably being a pest (swear at me), but one more question: The previous owner of the truck taped a button switch to the steering column for the horn (didn't have it go to the steering wheel). Will the Grant set-up accommodate wiring for the horn?

Many thanks for your help.

 

Obviously you didn't get the one with the horn


You need this kit to work.
GRT-3285

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku