$50 Paint Job!
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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$50 Paint Job!
I saw this on a forum...it has gotten quite some attention if i do say so myself! just thought i would spread the word as it looks like it works. Towards the end of the thread some people started trying it themselves and thats what convinced me. Check it out and let me know what you think!
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
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I saw that on another board awhile back. The technique of using a roller and sandpaper is sound if you want to expend the time and energy to do it. If I was going to all that trouble, I would use acrylic enamel auto paint though. The other types just aren't durable enough.
There's a type of roll-on primer that's on the market now. It seems to work very well, with less waste and no equipment clean-up, etc.
This won't work with metallics however, since the sandpaper cuts into the metallic flakes and ruins the look.
TLR
There's a type of roll-on primer that's on the market now. It seems to work very well, with less waste and no equipment clean-up, etc.
This won't work with metallics however, since the sandpaper cuts into the metallic flakes and ruins the look.
TLR
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 100
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From: Western Kentucky
I like what that guy has done and he is very helpful to anyone that ask questions. I think I'm going to give his method a shot on my 76 highboy as it is only used for camping and light off-roading.
I love the part about no overspray and how well it works in a small garage.
I does sound labor intensive, but If I'm not working for myself I'm working for the wife.
It will be a few weeks before I start but I'll post pictures as I get rolling. I will practice on parts of the donar truck first. Wish me luck.
I love the part about no overspray and how well it works in a small garage.
I does sound labor intensive, but If I'm not working for myself I'm working for the wife.
It will be a few weeks before I start but I'll post pictures as I get rolling. I will practice on parts of the donar truck first. Wish me luck.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 224
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From: Rocky Ford, Colorado
Originally Posted by Slag-hammer
I like what that guy has done and he is very helpful to anyone that ask questions. I think I'm going to give his method a shot on my 76 highboy as it is only used for camping and light off-roading.
I love the part about no overspray and how well it works in a small garage.
I does sound labor intensive, but If I'm not working for myself I'm working for the wife.
It will be a few weeks before I start but I'll post pictures as I get rolling. I will practice on parts of the donar truck first. Wish me luck.
I love the part about no overspray and how well it works in a small garage.
I does sound labor intensive, but If I'm not working for myself I'm working for the wife.
It will be a few weeks before I start but I'll post pictures as I get rolling. I will practice on parts of the donar truck first. Wish me luck.
Only real downside that I can see about it is just the fact that you've got to do so much sanding and have to go over it with so many layers. But if you've got the time go for it!
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 136
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From: Victoria BC Canada
I am going to try that on my '79 shortbox. its not going to be a show queen just a clean daily driver.
I have some panels to replace first then the paint job will start this fall. Tremclad medium blue! I bought a spray can of the same color to do the areas that are hard to reach.
My friend did it to his civic daily and it turned out better than expected and is actually quite tough.
I have some panels to replace first then the paint job will start this fall. Tremclad medium blue! I bought a spray can of the same color to do the areas that are hard to reach.
My friend did it to his civic daily and it turned out better than expected and is actually quite tough.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
I have used Tremclad to paint equipment , metal doors , wheel barrows , etc. I reduced the material with laquer thinner and sprayed it. Results are excellent, very little orange peel.The paint sets up dust free real quick( about 15 minutes). I have used there clear coat on my snow blower and it has performed very well. I have not tried to wet sand or buff, but may give it a try on the next project.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
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Yup, This is definately for me. This is my seinor year and the first 2 classes is shop class. I plan on parking my truck in their paint booth and do this. I think I would be able to paint the truck in one day, and sand the next.
I know it take a lot of practice to tune and use a paint gun, spendy too, especailly if your only gonna use it once.
My dad painted his boat trailer with white rustoleum. Being in MN, its held up about 4 years so far in the 110- to -30 degrees, dry, humid, rain snow etc. Theres a few spots that its chipped, but that was more then likely from poor prepping.
Sanding is gonna be fun. Got a fiberglass tonneau cover to contend with.
I know it take a lot of practice to tune and use a paint gun, spendy too, especailly if your only gonna use it once.
My dad painted his boat trailer with white rustoleum. Being in MN, its held up about 4 years so far in the 110- to -30 degrees, dry, humid, rain snow etc. Theres a few spots that its chipped, but that was more then likely from poor prepping.
Sanding is gonna be fun. Got a fiberglass tonneau cover to contend with.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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If I can find some Tremclad locally I think i'll try this on my trucks tailgate, and if it turns out alright, I might just do the whole truck.
Someone thats read more of the thread, what sort of prep work is necessary for this? Everything still need to be brought down to bare metal?
-myers
Someone thats read more of the thread, what sort of prep work is necessary for this? Everything still need to be brought down to bare metal?
-myers
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 77
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From: Salt Lake City
Tremclad is the equivalent to Rustoleum in the US. I used Rustoleum.
Sand the area, does not matter if you go to bare metal and what not, just make sure the area is prepped and sanded. Thin with mineral turps, about 15%, so around 4:1 or 5:1. Do not shake the paint, enamel is stirred otherwise you will get bubbles in the paint.
You dont have to mask hardly anything, there is no overspray, no getting paint everywhere. I done this outside in my backyard
Roll away, use the foam brush to do the areas the roller does not get into. 2 coats, then wet sand with 600 grit, 2 coats, wetsand with 800 grit, 2 coats, wetsand with 1000 grit, or 1500 grit. Then use turtle wax, the cheap white stuff, he recommends that over all the expensive waxes.
I read almost the entire thing and have actually done my tailgate as practice, and it came out extrememly well, better than what I thought it would. I am just using good ol white, it hides dings and scratches alittle better than other colors. Ill update my gallery one day when my truck is finished
Sand the area, does not matter if you go to bare metal and what not, just make sure the area is prepped and sanded. Thin with mineral turps, about 15%, so around 4:1 or 5:1. Do not shake the paint, enamel is stirred otherwise you will get bubbles in the paint.
You dont have to mask hardly anything, there is no overspray, no getting paint everywhere. I done this outside in my backyard
Roll away, use the foam brush to do the areas the roller does not get into. 2 coats, then wet sand with 600 grit, 2 coats, wetsand with 800 grit, 2 coats, wetsand with 1000 grit, or 1500 grit. Then use turtle wax, the cheap white stuff, he recommends that over all the expensive waxes.
I read almost the entire thing and have actually done my tailgate as practice, and it came out extrememly well, better than what I thought it would. I am just using good ol white, it hides dings and scratches alittle better than other colors. Ill update my gallery one day when my truck is finished
Last edited by hbronco; Aug 25, 2006 at 03:43 PM.