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MBRP Exhaust, what to expect.

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Old 08-21-2006, 06:46 PM
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MBRP Exhaust, what to expect.

My 4" MBRP is ordered and I plan to install saturday. I was reading previous posts about the drone, exspecially bad on excursions, which I have. I will be using the muffler, does this help? Any other mods to lessen the drone?

I was also wondering if the install is straight forward, any special tricks I need to know, special tools, does it come with all the necessary hardware?
 
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:52 PM
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I know that when Strokin_it did his he used "heat tape" and stainless clamps on the down pipes
 
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:12 PM
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I have the same system in the lower grade stainless. If you have the opportunity spot weld the pipes in addition to the clamps to eliminate any movement and squeaks.

I first started with the shipped system and experienced a bit of drone around 1700-1850 RPMs. I then ordered the aeroturbine and installed it as close to the front downpipe as possible. Interesting, if you look through the aeroturbine it looks very similiar to the MBRP muffler. In any case, the drone is gone and it is probably of the quietest powerstrockes on the road.

I know many people love the sound of the straight pipe but when I use the truck on 10-12 hour hauls I certainly don't miss the noise and the wife and kid have enough quiet to have a snooze.

In all I wouldn't change a thing for the purpose of my truck. If I wasn't using it for long hauls I would go with some super sick 5" stacks or something.

Oh yeah, at least get yourself a nice stainless 5" tip.
 
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:23 PM
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I installed mine by myself. Wound up pretty black from all the soot.. ... the muffler actually seems to increas the drone alittle more than a straight pipe.
These folks might be able to help with drone issues: LINK
This insulation is cheap and another possible drone reducer: LINK
Nut
 
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:24 PM
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installation is pretty straight foreward. just get a buddy to help because it will be much easier. the hardest part is getting the old system off but if you cut it with a sawzall it will come off easier and spray the rubber hangers with wd-40 and you dont have to be gentle with them because they will put up a fight because they have a barbed end that goes through the rubber that doesnt like to some back out. it took me about 4 hours to install. lining up the downpipe is tricky but thats where the other person comes in. i have the 409 system for my f 250 and i took the muffler off. mine is a crew cab and with the muffler i had no drone but i have drone without it. i think every truck is different with drone so install it and see how it sounds. if you have any more questions just ask
 
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:34 PM
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What to expect? Great sound and lower fuel milage do to a heavy foot.
 
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Old 08-21-2006, 08:00 PM
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my advice is to NOT tack weld the joints. they aren't going anywhere, and you dont need to weld them. good thing i havent, because i have had parts of my system or all of it out of the truck on occasion more than 6 or 7 times for other mods or painting it or something like that. yes, i have heat wrapped my downpipe, and it is nice. i do think underhood temps are lower, and i can feel a small difference on the heat of the floorboard in the cab my passengers have noticed. however it's not needed and i was just going overkill so you dont have to if you dont want to.

on the install, you may need to borrow a buddy's sawzall if you dont have one. it comes in handy. i used it to cut the exhaust up in pieces to remove it. it is SUPER heavy and i made one cut on the downpipe in front of the transmission crossmember. if you want to leave it in the factory pieces and disassemble it rather than CUT it, you have to remove the transmission crossmember because for some STUPID reason the downpipe ends above the support and you can't get it off without modifying something. spray the clamp at the turbo outlet and exhaust pipe connection with a penetrating lube the night before the install. it is 7/16 drive and takes a long socket. a few swift TAPS with a hammer and the clamp should pop loose.

i found that i had to use the sawzall to cut the little nipples off that were on the end of the stock hangers. i found it impossible to get the hangers through the rubber isolator boot with them on. you will see when you get to that problem. WD-40 on these helps them slide on(/off) also.

once the stock system is off, then i went underneath armed with a bungee cord and the downpipe. manuever the pipe into place and then support it with a knee or a chest or something while you stretch the bungee cord from one framerail to the next, under the pipe. the cord will support the pipe until you have time to get up under the hood and hang the clamp over the pipe. don't tighten it yet, just make sure it wont fall down. then assemble the pieces on top of each other, until you get back to the tailpipe. you will have to cut the extension pipe to fit, if you dont have a crewcab long bed.. once everything is loosely hung in line, start at the downpipe and tighten things as you go back. MBRP's supplied clamps are 14mm.
 




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