Problem solved.... I think
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Problem solved.... I think
After installing my shift kit I took my truck out for a spin to see what improved. Well it shifts really really nice now. Bad news, my engine started it's rattling again. Well after setting the valve lash several times, changing oil and filter, and fixing a header leak I tore the front half of the engine and oil pan off looking for a loose something. Well after I took off the timing cover the cam gear bolt was loose. That explained the intermitant oil psi loss. So after talking the bolt all the way out and cleaning the threads of the cam and bolt it covered the cam gear bolt in red lock tight. I seriously hope this sovles it.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
you didn't shear the pin in the gear did you?
And that doesn't resolve oil preasure loss, because in order for the oil pump to stop turning the cam has to stop turning and if that happens the engine quits running.
And that doesn't resolve oil preasure loss, because in order for the oil pump to stop turning the cam has to stop turning and if that happens the engine quits running.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
It didn't lose all the oil pressure but the pressure would drop 10-15 psi when I had the rattle. I have the oil pressure guage on the same passage as the front cam bearing oil feed. I did check the pin for wear and it is still in good shape. I still haven't put the oil pan on. I plan in checking all the torques for the rods and mains while I am in there. No sense in coming this far just to assume the issue is resolved.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
OK so I dropped the pan down even further and low and behold, metal shavings like that you would find in a automatic tranny pan. I went from this isn't so bad to "oh no, no no no no no no no" then a few more choice words that made my wife think I was killing someone in the garage. Well I do feel better today but not totally great. I had to get up and go to work vice go into heavy surgery on the engine. I did break the oil pump down last night however. I have some scoring on the inside of the g rotor and drive gear. There are a few areas where you can see something forced into the gear. At first it took some effert to turn the pump with a ratchet then after cleaning it turns freely. I am chomping at the bit to get home to open up the oil filter and see what is inside. Now I debating the moral dilema, should I tear it all down or just inspect the bearings to see if they are ok. Part of my reasoning comes from the thought that the filter is the first thing after the pump. I guess I will take it as I get more information.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 877
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From: Missouri
You said it was rattling and you had to reset the valve lash. Sounds like you might have a cam lobe going flat. It makes alot of silver shavings and is hard to get cleaned out of an engine. Seems like it settles everywhere. I really hope I'm wrong.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Well Green you hit the nail on the head. I have 1 lobe that are going flat so far. #1 exhaust, seems the hits just keep on coming LOL. Oh well crap happens and all I can do is rebuild. The slivers are so small I can't feel them rubbing between my finger tips. The only saving grace is I glyptoled the entire engine block before I built it. That explains why I didn't see the shaving on the heads or lifter valley. I am going to say it was from the cam gear working loose. I am suspecting the cam was sliding back and held from moving back farther by the lifters of the next lobe. So anyone know a good source for a Comp Cams etreme 4x4 hyd .554 intake and .574 exhaust cam and lifters? I'm putting together my list from summit right now. I think I am going to end up breaking the engine completely apart to clean the entire thing out just to be on the safe side. sigh...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
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From: Sun River St. George
Man, that sooo bites! Scotty in Tacoma can hook you up with a camshaft and modified lifters. They cut the side of the lifter body to improve oiling. He can also provide support concerning spring pressures, lift height and other valve train geometry information. Great Guy to know! He is over on 460ford.com most of the time!
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Here is the carnage....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=24051
At this point I am baggin and tagging all the bolts and parts until the new cam and lifters are ordered. I still haven't pulled the valve covers to see if I bent any push rods or crucified the roller rockers. You can see on the side of the lifter for the #5 cylinder the scoring on the sides where it was wearing. I feel all the lobes and lifters have the same damage.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=24051
At this point I am baggin and tagging all the bolts and parts until the new cam and lifters are ordered. I still haven't pulled the valve covers to see if I bent any push rods or crucified the roller rockers. You can see on the side of the lifter for the #5 cylinder the scoring on the sides where it was wearing. I feel all the lobes and lifters have the same damage.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Only 4 lifters were left untouched after all is said and done. The cam looks like I took a hot wrench to it. If your interested I added 3 new pictures of the lifters and the cam still in the block. Tomorrow I will attempt to locate a hoist to pull the engine out.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
I finally pulled the engine out and tore into it. The bearings are all scored in one or two places and have metal deposits. I can barely catch the scratches on the crank with my thumb nail but to be on the safe side I will be taking it in to have it looked at. Hopefully I will be able to get away with a polishing or at most turned .001 I would hate to hear that I going to need more then that.
On a good note, I can finally reroute all the transmission and fuel lines where I want them. I'll also be moving the wiring harnesses to a more hiden spot then on top of the inner fenders.
On a good note, I can finally reroute all the transmission and fuel lines where I want them. I'll also be moving the wiring harnesses to a more hiden spot then on top of the inner fenders.
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