OK, I have a 1988 (made 1/88) which has some play in the front wheels coming from the bearings. Here is the weird part: my hub slides off when the wheel is removed which I guess is a design that they used for a year or so during that period. The rotors were very easy to remove but nothing like what I expected. I removed a little c-clip, then a washer, then used the locknut tool to remove the (what seems to be a locknut/adjusting combo thingy. The device sits over a type of washer that has grooves in it that lock to the back of the locknut/adjusting combo thingy. They kind of "ratchet" together. Basically, after removing the locknut/adjusting combo thingy and sliding off the washer with the grooves in it, the rotor slides right off.

Here is the burning question:

When I reassemble the thing, how much torque do i put on this locknut/adjusting combo thingy? I used a breaker bar to crank down on it pretty good while turning, repeated the process, then tightened to about 40 lbs cause that seemed about right. I can't seem to find a diagram of the setup I have or specific instructons as to how to seat the bearings and torque the locknut/adjusting combo thingy. I just used a bit of what I felt was common sense. Can somebody give me a bit more guidance?

FYI, I decided to tackle this endeavor because when I took my truck to firestone for my lifetime alignment, they told me that there was too much end play and because I needed to replace a rotor and do the brakes anyway. But after examining this design, it seems as though there is intrinsicly more play that one would expect because of the crazy locknut/adjusting combo thingy and the grooves where it contacts the washer.

 

the crazy locknut/adjusting combo thingy

It is just a nut that locks the other nut in place. Put the nut with the tit on it on first with the tit facing out. Tighten it as you would a nut that holds the wheel bearings on a non-driven axle (front axle on a 2 wheel drive) translated - the weight of the breaker bar when you let go of it from level or I use an extension in the socket and go as tight as I can just holding the extension, no ratchet or bar in it - do not torque this down to 40 ft-lbs or you'll burn the front bearings out of the axle in less than 100 miles! There is no specific torque - it's all about the feel. You want the rotor to spin freely with just a little drag. Too much drag equals friction which creates heat. Heat kills bearings! If you spin the rotor as hard as you can with one tug - like on the Price is Right! - it should only go about 3 or 4 turns.

Once you've tightened the nut spin the rotor backwards and forwards - if it seems to spin too freely or there is back and forth movement when you grab the top and bottom of the rotor and rock it in and out then tighten it a little more.

When it's at the right tightness, put in the washer with all the holes - make sure the tab inside goes in the keyway and the tit on the nut fits in a hole. This makes sure that the nut doesn't turn in or out any more. Then put on the outer nut and torque it to about 35 ft-lbs. The outer nut just keeps it all in place and from going anywhere.

The locknut design doesn't create any play in this design. The only play allowed is in the taper wheel bearings and you are right - there shouldn't be any.

Woodler

 

yeah the 88 has a very weird hub design, my 88 was the same way, but it never gave me a hint of problems, and i beat the heck out it. for the locknut, you just crank on it, for the wheelbearing nut, you tighten it just until you can feel resistance, then back out till the holes in the lock washer line up.

 

This is very hard to describe but here goes. These are the parts that i have on the outer part of the rotor assembly: Outer bearing, a cup that is indexed AND has grooves on the top side, adjusting nut that has grooves on the bottom side that mesh with the cup, washer that has splines on it that mesh with the splines on the spindle, c-clip that holds this washer in place. SO, when the adjusting nut is tightened, the grooves mesh with the cup beneath it so as you get tighter and tighter, you are really clicking the nut to the next "detent." AND yes, I know this sounds preposterous but ford used this design for about a year as I understand. The ONLY thing to adjust is the nut with the grooves (and i am NOT talking about the 4 grooves for the specialty socket) which i guess i would descriibe as self-locking into the cup that it meshes with. And the question is how tight to tghten it? TO clarify, on mine there is only one item that tightens when rotated. The rest of the stuff on the outer part of the rotor slides or snaps on.

 

The only part to adjust or torque is the "self-locking" adjusting nut. I have searched far and wide and have yet to see a diagram of this design or find any specifications as to torque, adjusting, etc. I am surprised that greystreak hasn't gotten in on this one.

 

Well to be honest, I've not actually laid eyes on the setup you have. I could venture a guess based on what I do know, but I really don't like to do that. I could be dead wrong and end up giving you info that will do more harm than good.

Let me see if I can help with this bit of info. When installing the hub onto the spindle, there should be NO endplay or wobble between the spindle and the hub. So the first nut or whatever that holds the hub onto the spindle needs to be snug enough to eliminate endplay but not so snug that it impedes rotation. In my experience, the hub will be a slight struggle to turn by hand but once the wheel is back on and everything is buttoned up that leaves things just perfect. Remember, the bearings and the grease are going to "run in" after re-assembly just a little. If you keep turning the hub while you tighten the first nut you will be able to pretty much "feel" when its right. Check to make certain there is no endplay or wobble between the hub and the spindle. When you feel that is set properly, run the locking assembly onto the spindle and tighten it to 150 ft.-lbs. WHILE MAKING ABSOLUTLEY CERTAIN that the inner nut does NOT tighten as you do so. If it does, start again with the previous process. The locking mechanism on the trucks I am used to dealing with is designed to keep the inner nut from moving while you tighten the outer one so you don't have to worry about it. Again, I have not seen the setup you have so I can't give you any better advice than that for now. Hope this helps.

 

I am beginning to wonder if the assembly that I have is an aftermarket setup and can be replaced with a standard adjusting nut/washer/locknut setup that I hear so much about...

 

Tom,

You are describing the factory setup for 1987 and half of 1988. These years use a flanged type locking hub. The locknut you are describing is a one piece item with some sort of internal racheting setup to prevent the locknut from becoming loose, unkike the conventional setup with two locking locknuts where the outer one is just a jamb nut to prevent the inner one from becoming loose.

The factory Ford manual for 1988 states to tighten the adjusting nut to 50-60 Ft-Lb and back it off 180 degrees. Then tighten it again to 15 Ft-Lb. This is the process that I used and it has been working fine. I usually rotate the rotor assembly when tightining it to the 50-60 Ft-Lb setting to properly set the bearings.

Hope this helps.

 

I probably put too much torque on them but it's weird cause there is stilll some endplay; at least enough to notice when the tire is on. When I seated the bearings I basically did what you said thought maybe a bit more torque and I repeated the process twice. The wheels spin freely though so I think everything is fine though we will find out cause I am taking a trip to Virginia tomorrow. Anyway, I wonder if it's possible to change this setup to the 3 piece setup with the adjusting nut, washer, and the locknut. Or, I might just do the knuckle-out changeover if I decide to keep the truck.

 

Tom,
I have that same setup on a 90'. I hate it. What I did, is push a screwdriver in on the rachet tooth and pry it back one click, then tighten the nut that same distance. Then repeat. It eventailly will not allow you to pry it back any more. You cant get it any tighter than that. It needs to be that tight. If you dont do it that way, it will back off a little and you will have play in the bearings. I hope I discribed this process clear enough.

 

Yes you can change it. All the stock 80-86/89-92 parts will bolt to your knuckles (if you change everything).The sticker shock is pretty bad until you price rotors, spindles, stubs, lockouts etc seperatly.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...conversion.htm
The sticker shock is pretty bad until you price rotors, spindles, stubs, lockouts etc seperatly.