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Just made a 688 mile round trip to pickup a 62 big window rust bucket with tailgate and good doors. Pulled tandem trailer with Binford, my 61 longbox,292, 4 BBL, 3.89 rear, with newly installed Mustang SVO 5 spd. That trans makes it a new truck. Ran 65-75mph and got over 12mpg on the loaded trip back. I'm happy.
I agree with you on that T-5. I run one in both of my 65's. Did you use the Mustang cable clutch system, or did you convert to a fulcrum linkage? I guess a third option would be a hydraulic release bearing.
In other words, which clutch operating method? I retained the Mustang cable system using an SVO aluminum quadrant bolted to my existing clutch pedal lever.
I made a bushing and used the old 4 spd throwout bearing over the T-5 front bearing retainer. Didn't change any linkage other than making bushings at every joint to repair the 41 years of wear.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think the issue was a problem with bolting to the bell. I thought they would bolt-up just fine. The problem is, the input shaft is longer then on the stock transmissions. They make a spacer to go inbetween the engine in the bell to make it work. Another option is to install a special shorter input shaft on the trans. I just used the Mustang bell. Some convert the Mustang bell to mechanical linkage by installing a special fulcrum in the bell for the clutch release arm to pivot on. Instead, I found an easy way to use the Mustang clutch cable system. Works good, with low pedal effort.
I used the old 4 spd bell housing, plugging the old holes and drilling new ones. Made a ring bushing over the bearing retainer, and shortenend the input shaft about a 1/2 inch. Had a clutch disc made up for it and pieced the truck and mustang drivshafts together. Was pretty easy swap.
I've read about some of you guys useing the T5. I was wondering how you did the cvhange over. Currently I have a 3-on-the-tree. The rear engine mount is actually the tranny ount isn't it? Plus The T5 looks like the shifter would be practically under the seat. Also, I read that someone sells the correct adapter for the bell housing. I don't have a T5, but Am just trying to picture in my mind how it would all go together and make sure I wouldn't have to fabricate parts to make it work. Any info would be appreciated.
go to the links on the right side of this page. Badgerland F100's has a tech article about installing a T5 in a 61 Unibody. Use a S-1o T-5 to move the shifter ahead of the seats. A friend has one for a 223 already setup for sale. email me and I will forward you some photos of his transmission and bellhousing. trukfarm@frontiernet.net
Mine was an SVO T-5 with Hurst shifter. Used the original lever, just cut it apart, add a foot or so, reweld to the front rather than the top of the two hole mounting bracket, heat and bend to taste. The SVO leather boot will cover it all. The shifter will clear the seat fully forward. Yes, the bell housing is also the trans mount. The old four speed bell housing is easier to mount the T-5 to than a three speed bell. You will have to buy the one below, or be ready to fabricate parts. I'd never put a Chevy T-5 behind a Y-block, it's probably even unlawful.
Rick,
I wasn't aware that there were T5's in chevys. Would it be different than the T5's in Mustangs? You have some good idea's, but wouldn't the hurst shifter be a little low for the bench seat?. How about the drive shaft? Will it match up?
Bruce: The T-Series transmisisons were made by Warner, or later, Borg-Warner, for any and all vehicles. Some trannies were made to fit manufacturer's bell housings,and others the manufacturers made the bell housings to fit the transmission. One example of the latter is the T-85N transmission, which is identical regardless of the brand of car or truck it came out of. The different car makers just made the bell housing to accept the tans bolt patttern.
I cannot say this was true for any other case, but I'm sure it was for a limited number of transmissions, anyway.
You need to make a shifter handle which curves up around the seat bottom. It's not any more of a reach than the old granny 4 was. Driveshaft also needs to be fabricated. I just welded the front yoke and about a foot of a turbo T-bird driveshaft to the truck shaft. Turned them on a lathe to slip together straight then welded.
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