Cavitation
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2006
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Cavitation
Hi everyone. I'm a newbe and this is my first post.
I hope this question hasn't been asked, but here goes. I own a Tool & Die shop, and one of the diesel mechanics in town comes to my shop to get broken bolts drilled out ect. I recently bought my first diesel, a 1990 F350 5 Spd 4x4. I drove it over to his shop to have him look it over. He told me the very first thing I should do is to go to the radiator shop, and have them braise a 1/4 inch pipe threaded fitting into one of the radiator tanks. Then go to the local marine dealer, and buy a zink used in a boat motor and install it into the bushing. He said replace it once a year, and that would basically kill all of the cavitation issues with the motor.
My question is, has anyone done this? Is it advised to do this? I have owned gassers my entire life, and while younger, even worked in an engine building shop, but I have never heard of this.
Thank you all for being patient with me learning about my motor as I go along.
Jay
I hope this question hasn't been asked, but here goes. I own a Tool & Die shop, and one of the diesel mechanics in town comes to my shop to get broken bolts drilled out ect. I recently bought my first diesel, a 1990 F350 5 Spd 4x4. I drove it over to his shop to have him look it over. He told me the very first thing I should do is to go to the radiator shop, and have them braise a 1/4 inch pipe threaded fitting into one of the radiator tanks. Then go to the local marine dealer, and buy a zink used in a boat motor and install it into the bushing. He said replace it once a year, and that would basically kill all of the cavitation issues with the motor.
My question is, has anyone done this? Is it advised to do this? I have owned gassers my entire life, and while younger, even worked in an engine building shop, but I have never heard of this.
Thank you all for being patient with me learning about my motor as I go along.
Jay
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,447
Likes: 5,517
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
welcome farmer jay.
i have never heard of it, but to each his own. my personal opinion is that it is safer and cheaper to just keep clean coolant in it, and use the proper coolant additive, and keep up to date with the testing. you can get D.C.A. (diesel coolant additive) at ford, international, or any good diesel shop. or you can do as i do, and use napa-kool, available at any napa auto store. then just get a set of coolant test strips, and every 6 months or so check it.
i have never heard of it, but to each his own. my personal opinion is that it is safer and cheaper to just keep clean coolant in it, and use the proper coolant additive, and keep up to date with the testing. you can get D.C.A. (diesel coolant additive) at ford, international, or any good diesel shop. or you can do as i do, and use napa-kool, available at any napa auto store. then just get a set of coolant test strips, and every 6 months or so check it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Farmer Jay,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Cavitation in the diesel engine has to do with vibrations of the cylinder walls from combustion pressures.
The zinc anode would stop electrolysis erosion, but that is not the issue.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Cavitation in the diesel engine has to do with vibrations of the cylinder walls from combustion pressures.
The zinc anode would stop electrolysis erosion, but that is not the issue.
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Freshman User
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Thank you for correcting me Dave. I guess I got mixed up while reading all the posts over the past few day, trying to learn all I can. I'm really enjoying the forum. Yes, you're right, he indicated it was to stop corrosion.
What exactly causes cavitation? I just don't want to do something that could cause damage and not be aware of it. Example, I had no idea I should be testing my coolant with the test strips.
Thanks for your time, and thank everyone for what I have already learned.
Jay
What exactly causes cavitation? I just don't want to do something that could cause damage and not be aware of it. Example, I had no idea I should be testing my coolant with the test strips.
Thanks for your time, and thank everyone for what I have already learned.
Jay
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
What happens is the cylinder expands slightly when the fuel ignites. Then as the cylinder retuns to it's original size a low pressure area is created in the coolant.
The low pressure area causes tiny bubbles to form in the coolant. During the next combustion cycle the cylinder wall runs into the bubbles and causes them to implode.
This is a rather violent occurance when looking at the molecular level for a size scale.
So when the bubble implodes it chips off a bit of the cylinder wall metal molecule.
Given enough time this will continue till a hole is worn through the cylinder wall.
What the SCA addatives do is deposit a sacraficial layer that the bubbles then wear away instead of the cylinder metal. That is why you must check the levels and keep them at a specified level. To much addative is just as bad as not enough, but the damage will be in the form of blocked passages in the cooling system.
SCA's and the zinc anode on an outdrive do work the same way kinda. You put something there that is cheaper than what you are trying to protect. You scarifice the cheaper item to protect the expensive one.
The low pressure area causes tiny bubbles to form in the coolant. During the next combustion cycle the cylinder wall runs into the bubbles and causes them to implode.
This is a rather violent occurance when looking at the molecular level for a size scale.
So when the bubble implodes it chips off a bit of the cylinder wall metal molecule.
Given enough time this will continue till a hole is worn through the cylinder wall.
What the SCA addatives do is deposit a sacraficial layer that the bubbles then wear away instead of the cylinder metal. That is why you must check the levels and keep them at a specified level. To much addative is just as bad as not enough, but the damage will be in the form of blocked passages in the cooling system.
SCA's and the zinc anode on an outdrive do work the same way kinda. You put something there that is cheaper than what you are trying to protect. You scarifice the cheaper item to protect the expensive one.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I change all my fluids every spring.
But my truck also is normally operated in extreme conditions almost every day.
Right now every jobsite has several inchs of talcum powder dust covering everything.
A person walking through it stirs up a dust cloud.
But my truck also is normally operated in extreme conditions almost every day.
Right now every jobsite has several inchs of talcum powder dust covering everything.
A person walking through it stirs up a dust cloud.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 64
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Is this a problem only in the 7.3?? I've got a 6.9/86, should I flush and start using the additive??
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I know lots of 6.9 engines that have never had SCA's used in them.
That Murphy guy comes to see me way to often, I have been using them for years in my 6.9.
The 6.9 has much thicker cylinder walls than the 7.3 does.
A 7.3 is a 6.9 block bored 110 thousandths.
Running coolant addative is cheap insurance on a rather expensive problem.
All diesel engines have this same problem to some extent, some worse than others.
That Murphy guy comes to see me way to often, I have been using them for years in my 6.9.
The 6.9 has much thicker cylinder walls than the 7.3 does.
A 7.3 is a 6.9 block bored 110 thousandths.
Running coolant addative is cheap insurance on a rather expensive problem.
All diesel engines have this same problem to some extent, some worse than others.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 64
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I've read quite a few different threads on this topic recently and sounds like good insurance to me -- wish I new this years ago -- I'll start using the additive.
Many mention the NAPA additive -- is there another additive available?? Carquest etc??
Many mention the NAPA additive -- is there another additive available?? Carquest etc??
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 561
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From: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
Hey wow, great thread guys. I'm doing the whole "cavitation information conquest" myself. Could anybody tell me how you would do a reverse flush after you drain all of the coolant out of your system. Or could somone just in fact give me a very detailed description on how to flush the coolant system, and do a reverse flush.
As far as I know, you're supposed to drain everything, fill the rad to the top and then fill up the tank with 5 quarts of coolant, drive down the road and fill it to the top again. Do I got it right, or was there something missing?
As far as I know, you're supposed to drain everything, fill the rad to the top and then fill up the tank with 5 quarts of coolant, drive down the road and fill it to the top again. Do I got it right, or was there something missing?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 306
Likes: 2
reverse flush i got the kit at autozone the one that you slice your heater hose and slip in this is the simple way drain rad and the attach garden hose to yhe contaption and let it flow till all runs clear most people will take the thermostat out and do this this way all is good when goes back together yea replace therm now only replace with original oem part from ford or ih have had bad expeince with az and checker therm this will set ya up for the winter good luck and good heating
ps now is the time to do a check on that heater core also do a presure test see if gona start leaking also replace cap 13lbs
ps now is the time to do a check on that heater core also do a presure test see if gona start leaking also replace cap 13lbs