How do I replace the actuator for ignition switch
I read several posts on replacing the switch, cylinder, and other parts and was checking the actuator arm and found it broken. I got a new actuator and took out the old part, had to break it to be able to pull it all the way out.
Now my dilema is I can't figure out how to get the new actuator in the square hole it fits into. I have the steering wheel off, the signal switch out, key cylinder and have even tried removing the three allen screws that hold the black & silver cast piece on the column. But the seems to be no way to get the actuator slid back in place.
How do I remove the round cast piece to get this in? Does it come apart? I have this whole assemlby loose but can't find a way to put the actuator in.
Many thanks in advance - this post has been great and has helped keep our truck running for several years. I've been able to do almost all of the repairs myself with the help of my son - its "his truck".
Hondo21
Good luck though.
If you're in a bind, it shouldn't be too hard to Mcgyver something on the switch itself until you can pull things apart.
Took me 3-4 hours today, mostly because I forgot to tighten the three allen screws and the whole thing was loose as a goose until I took it back apart to figure out what I'd forgot.
Now she runs like a dream. Cleaned up the dash pieces while I had it all apart too. Looks great!
Thanks for the help on this forums - would've never made it.
here is how to go about it:
go buy the actuator from the ford dealer ($20.00 in BC Canada)
get a steering wheel puller and pull the wheel after unscrewing the two screws at the back of wheel and disconnecting wires.(this is really easy. the puller i bought was $25 but there was a universal cheapy for $5.00 which, in hindsight would have worked too)
socket set, needle nose, fine pipck tool came in handy, bearing grease, philips and flat head screw drivers, a punch, snap-ring pliers recommended.
remove three screws from turn signal apparatus (2 are same, i different). careful of the little flat metal bars in there. mine were broken and fell out which is why my turn signal was sloppy. i cut up an old flat feeler guage and replaced. worked perfectly.
remove three screws holding column collar with ignition.
remove the thingy with the teeth (hope that is not too technical for ya) that the ignition gear from key turns at the same time.
remove the three allen screws that face away from you and you acess from behind. two are easy, one is a bugger.
remove two large bolts under dash that hold the column up. drop column.
remove two plastic column covers that hide column where it meets dash.
remove screw and clip that hold the plastic white cord thing that operates your gear shift indicator. this will need adjusting later.
remove the snap ring that holds the bearing onto the shaft. do yourself a favour and get snap-ring pliers. i did not have them and it took some extra time to get that off.
remove bearing.
remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it. if you miss it and it ends up mysteriously on the floor and you do not know where it came from, it'll take an extra 1/2 hour to figure it out. (don't ask how i know).
screw a screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together. you cannot get the actuator in without doing this. i could remove the broken one without of course.
remove the two nuts that hold the ignition switch to the base of the steering column by your feet and pull actuator rod out. you will need to adjust this later so the ignition/key position works at the right points. (no sweat)
pull the actuator and rod out. put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. PAY ATTENTION HERE TOO. do not drive it hard so it falls into the dirt at your feet and you almost lose it (don't ask how i know). you need this little pin to drive back into the rod and actuator.
put assembled actuator and rod back into column.
reassemble is reverse.
clean out all the muck in there while you are at it. grease up your bearings and moving parts too. clean up metal rings on wheel etcetera that operate your horn/cruise.
good luck.
by the way, my mechanic said he'd charge about 2 to 3 hours labour for this job. it was a long weekend and i was moving houses and needed truck so i had to do it myself. now that i have done it once, i could do this in about 3 hours i figure - not that i willever likely need to do it again. if you haven't done it before it might be worth hiring it out if it is only $200 to $300.
cheers, Russ.
Last edited by rusty9; Sep 7, 2006 at 04:20 PM.
Roger




