When changing the fluid on the automatic transmission, is it advisable to keep the truck level or does it help to put the front wheels on ramps?

BTW: Is changing the fluid a job for someone who knows what they're doing or can a novice do it themselves?

Oh yeah, there was a mention of a gasket on a sensor in or around the pan that develops a vacuum leak - where is that sensor.

 

You will want to keep it level when you refill it but while draining it doesn't matter.

It is not that hard of a job. What I like to do, is change the fluid and filter the first time around, then take it to a reputable shop and have it flushed the next few times. It is only around 80 bucks for a flush job without dropping the pan. Changing the filter is not necessary everytime.

Not sure about the sensor you are talking about.

 

God I can't remember the reference to it, I asked about it about 2 years ago I think. Something about there is a sensor or regulator in the pan compartment that has a gasket which frequently leaks.

The basic symptoms are that the truck will NOT go into gear when it is very cold until its either warmed up or sufficient something or other has sealed the gasket.

 

I've lost two myself and and seen countless ford transmissions go to pot after being power flushed. If you change your fluid and filter every 30,000 miles there is no need for a power flush. The fleet of trucks I maintain has six 97' to 01' Explorers that have 215,000 miles plus on them without a trans job. They were serviced every 30,000 miles and never flushed. These trucks have spent most of their life in the dirt too. Those are pretty good numbers if you ask me.

 

There is a "how to change your tranny fluid" thread in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forums main page.

I use a catch bucket with volume measurement marks inside, so I know exactly how much fluid I've removed.

So when I drop the pan, catch the old fluid & measure what I've removed, I know exactly how much was removed & how much old fluid remains in the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines.

Measuring this way, I can pour back in exactly the amount removed from the pan.

When you drop the pan to clean it & the magnet & change the filter, you only remove about 1/4 to 1/3 of the old fluid.

After refilling the pan. If you'll then remove the tranny return line at the cooler, plug it & route a length of scrap hose, from the cooler, into your measuring catch bucket, then start & stop the engine at idle, in 15 second cycles, while slowly shifting through all the gears, you'll pump out 1 qt of old fluid, each 15 seconds, verified by the measured catch bucket.

Then pour in another new qt, of make up fluid & repeat the 15 second run cycle, until you've pumped out the remainder of the systems specified capacity.

This way you won't run the tranny pump dry & will remove most of the old fluid in the valve body, torque converter & cooling lines.

Taking the tme to do this, you'll likely feel a difference in shift quality, I do.

If you can get a helper to operate the engine, it'll go faster & if open all the remaining fluid bottles, you'll probably be able to then pour the new fluid in, about as fast as the tranny pumps it out & maybe save some stop/start cycles.

On the replacement question, I think maybe you were thinking about replacing the valve body gasket????

 

I appreciate the pointer, but really all I wanted to know was whether or not it was easier to have the pan tilted when trying to remove it. Doesn't sound like it from the answers given so far.

 

I don't know what it's like having the vehicle level, as I've always had it up on ramps, like you were talking about.

Then using the measuring bucket, to keep track of how much you've removed, your not likely to over fill it & you don't need to have the vehicle level & keep taking readings with the dipstick.

Having the front end up on ramps makes it easier to drain the pan too.

I use one of those big 32 qt plastic under bed storage containers, to catch the pan fluid in. It's wide & long enough to easily slip under the pan & catch the pans drippings & the sides are tall enough it catches most all of the splashes.

Hardest part for me was getting the cooler hose off, without breaking something.
I ended up with a pair of waterpump plires loosely over the cooler line, pushing on the end of the hose, to get it off.
It was so tight on the cooler line, that twisting it & pulling on it, was going to cut the hose, or break the cooler line.

Just a heads up on the hose.

The pan gasket is designed to be reused, IF the gasket isn't damaged on removal & is placed back on the pan EXACTLY as it came off.

 

eigen, what year truck do you have?