Gearing
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Freshman User
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Gearing
Hello - i was wondering if you guys could help me out with information about regearing your truck, can you do it yourself? Thats what i want to do to save money. i THINK i have a ford 8.8" rear axel and a dana 44 in the front (are these the stock axels????? or am i wrong?) and so do i need to regear my dana44? i wouldnt think so (at least i wouldnt have to IMMEDIATLY, just for when i go offroad) because in the city i run it on 2wd, so the rear wheels (ford 8.8") are the only ones that would need the better acceleration anyway.
Tell me what ya think
Tell me what ya think
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Louisiana
Well, you can do it yourself, but it is to complicated for me.
I have watched how to do it, read how to do it, and done everything on my Bronco, but still didn't feel good enough to do it my self.
For 35s, you'll want about 4.30-4.56 gears(since you have overdrive 4.56 would be fine).
You don't have to regear the front, but you could not use the 4wd at all until you regear to the same gear ratio.
You can be .03 off front and rear on gear ratio, so 4.09 and 4.11 is ok, but not 3.55 and 4.56.
IF you can find a good ford 9" to swap into place, then you can buy a whole center section with everything in it(w/out a locker) for about $400 or so, and swap that in place. That's all I felt comfortable doing with gears, just swaping center sections, not adjusting.
I have watched how to do it, read how to do it, and done everything on my Bronco, but still didn't feel good enough to do it my self.
For 35s, you'll want about 4.30-4.56 gears(since you have overdrive 4.56 would be fine).
You don't have to regear the front, but you could not use the 4wd at all until you regear to the same gear ratio.
You can be .03 off front and rear on gear ratio, so 4.09 and 4.11 is ok, but not 3.55 and 4.56.
IF you can find a good ford 9" to swap into place, then you can buy a whole center section with everything in it(w/out a locker) for about $400 or so, and swap that in place. That's all I felt comfortable doing with gears, just swaping center sections, not adjusting.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Louisiana
That I don't know. I don't have one with overdrive.
The only places I've seen over drive is on the shifter somewhere, and I'm not even sure about your Bronco, just what I've seen on newer vehicals.
The only places I've seen over drive is on the shifter somewhere, and I'm not even sure about your Bronco, just what I've seen on newer vehicals.
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what kinda of transmissions did the 87 broncos come with, AOD, and what else? Cuz if they came with a C6 - and if that doesn have OD - than thats probobly what ive got
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Posting Guru
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I had a 88 with AOD and the shifter has R-N-OD-D-1. Actually the OD is a D with circle around it. Just shift past that to the D and it will not go to overdrive. The bad thing about that setup is you cant shift to 2. Doing the gearts is not so bad. it sounds scary, but if you take your time, you can do it. Do you have a dial indicater and know how to use it?
The first time I changed gears, I had a shop do it, to the tune of $1200.00. The last time, I did it and my diff runs quieter than the one done by the shop! The problem is there is a lot of trial lifting the ring gear and hub into the case. I think the shop guys get sick of it and just put it in. I cant see doing just the rear, but I dont know what your pocketbook will allow.
The front Dana 44 is easier because you can do it on the bench like a nine inch. One problem is you may need a new carrier for the front. I did for 4.88 gears I have now. But I cant remember when I had the 4.56's put in. You better check before pulling it apart.
I sure think you want some kind of traction device in both ends when you do it. I've towed alot of big tire trucks that were stuck with one front tire and one rear tire spinning. (its embarrissing)
The first time I changed gears, I had a shop do it, to the tune of $1200.00. The last time, I did it and my diff runs quieter than the one done by the shop! The problem is there is a lot of trial lifting the ring gear and hub into the case. I think the shop guys get sick of it and just put it in. I cant see doing just the rear, but I dont know what your pocketbook will allow.
The front Dana 44 is easier because you can do it on the bench like a nine inch. One problem is you may need a new carrier for the front. I did for 4.88 gears I have now. But I cant remember when I had the 4.56's put in. You better check before pulling it apart.
I sure think you want some kind of traction device in both ends when you do it. I've towed alot of big tire trucks that were stuck with one front tire and one rear tire spinning. (its embarrissing)
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Man that sounds pretty expensive, but that dial thingie - dont got one. Im sure i can get one, and my brother has a mechanic friend who rebuilt his boat engine for him, so it shouldnt be too bad. My shift pattern thing is P-R-N-D-2-1, so iguess that makes it a C6? also in a C6, how freakin long does it take to get to 3rd gear, because i tried yesterday and it wouldnt shift, i havent had it too long so im not farmiliar with her shift patters, but i guess if you got a 3 speed tranny you need to save the 3rd gear for the highway 
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Louisiana
That's how my C6 is, and it shifts around 25MPH, depending on how you're driveing, to the floor, it'll shift at 65 mph.
With no overdrive, and 35s you might want 4.11-4.30s. Just so the highway RPMs isn't to high.
With no overdrive, and 35s you might want 4.11-4.30s. Just so the highway RPMs isn't to high.
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Dial indicaters are not very expensive. I think about 12 bucks at harbor freight. Of course that will be a Chinese knock off, but thats all you need. As far as the gearing goes. I went with 4.56's on my old truck. This gave me a little more power than stock (with the 35's). But without OD, I tend to agree with MBB, you might want 4.11's and make sure your engines running good.
Last edited by helirich; Aug 11, 2006 at 09:31 AM. Reason: add something