Hey all, I installed a visonik mono 1000 watt amp (400 watt RMS) and two infinity kappa perfect 10.1 subs behind the seat of my 96 single cab f150 about a month ago. Everything was working fine until this morning, when I noticed my subs werent sounding quite as good as they normally do. I didnt think a lot of it, but as I kept driving I noticed my bass went out all together. I checked the amp, and it was switching back and forth from power to protection mode, and everytime it switched it made my subs "thump" a little. THere was absolutely no bass coming out though... And it was a steady switch back and forth. I called crutchfield and they told me to disconnect the speaker wires and see if it still did it, and it did, and I also disconnected the RCA cables, and it was still doing it... so it isnt a short in the speaker wiring or in the head unit itself. Is there any way to check the remote turn on lead for steady power? If anyone has any other suggestions on what it might be before I send it back to crutchfield, please let me know. I would like to make SURE its the amp that is bad before I ship it back, and not a flaw in my wiring.

Thanks for any help in advance!

 

I personally havn't had a remote issue take out my Amp or kick it into Thermal Protection. But I did have an internal short kick it into Thermal protection.


Personally I'd start chasing the Power and grounds and the quality of both. Then if that checks out temporarily run a remote feed to a different location or re-land where-ever it is you have it going to.

Fwiw... I've had a friend that had an arcing' terminal block under the hood that caused his into Thermal protection shut-down. I have also had customer's amp fail b/c the internal fan(s) had quit working.

 

So you think its a problem with the amp, and not the wiring that is causing it to go to protection mode?

 

It could very well be.

But I would exclude all the Basics that an Amp needs first....
Basic amp TS this will break everything down in a "nut-shell"....
nifty troubleshoot'n article....

Edit: that should be a link up there...

 

Hey pc u can get your amp to turn on manualy if u jumper your 12v positive to your remote lead on your amp terminals if that hlps.(makes your amp on steady until you remove the jumper..)

 

Check your ground, i just had a problem with mine and the amp would kick off and back on.

 

This is a very steady switch, you can count it almost right to the second when it does it which makes me think its inside the amp... but I will def. check out my ground, I did move the box around quite a bit, so I guess it could have possibly come loose...

Thanks guys, I will let you know the outcome.