power front disc conv.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: rochester n.y.
power front disc conv.
I want to install power front disc brakes on my 54 f250.i will be using 5x5.5 hubs to match the rear wheel bolt patern.are there any kits out there that do not require modifying the grease fittings. most adds say the grease fittings have to be relocated.looking for the voices of experience.
RED
RED
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, ohio
I used a front disc kit from Classic Performance Products on my 1955 F-100.
I did have to move some of the grease fittings, but it was not hard to do.
I did some with the spindles off the truck (easy) and some with the king pins
in place ( not as easy). Overall the grease fittings were no worse than the other
wheel & brake parts in difficulty.
I did have to move some of the grease fittings, but it was not hard to do.
I did some with the spindles off the truck (easy) and some with the king pins
in place ( not as easy). Overall the grease fittings were no worse than the other
wheel & brake parts in difficulty.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 216
Likes: 18
From: Central NC
I am doing this now to a '56.....
Had to relocate the upper kingpin fitting on each side... this is the only one that needs it...
drilling is fun.....
on passenger side i had to make a flat bottom #3 drill to get grease flow... driver side... I don't think the kingpin was as hard, as I am certain I drilled into it slightly..... even did it without breaking a tap
IMHO, they should write instructions again... it would have been easier to relocate the kingpin locks (flipped around to where the nut was on the front) at the beginning of the process.... you will need to do this to clear the bracket when turning......
did not 'like' the bearing adapter...... it required a bit more heat than you think to get it over the spindle surface...... and a BFH ( i used a piece of pipe as a driver...), also i did not like how the adapter does not have full contact with the spindle on the outboard end... (yes it is fully seated)... don't like seeing a gap.
Don't know what is in store for the master cylinder......... yet....
ANY TIPS????
Had to relocate the upper kingpin fitting on each side... this is the only one that needs it...
drilling is fun.....
on passenger side i had to make a flat bottom #3 drill to get grease flow... driver side... I don't think the kingpin was as hard, as I am certain I drilled into it slightly..... even did it without breaking a tap IMHO, they should write instructions again... it would have been easier to relocate the kingpin locks (flipped around to where the nut was on the front) at the beginning of the process.... you will need to do this to clear the bracket when turning......
did not 'like' the bearing adapter...... it required a bit more heat than you think to get it over the spindle surface...... and a BFH ( i used a piece of pipe as a driver...), also i did not like how the adapter does not have full contact with the spindle on the outboard end... (yes it is fully seated)... don't like seeing a gap.
Don't know what is in store for the master cylinder......... yet....
ANY TIPS????
Elder User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
From: Owasso Oklahoma USA
I used the kit from ECI on my 1955 F100. They also said to move the upper grease fittings. I found it easier to notch the caliper bracket to fit around the grease zerk. It did not require much metal to be removed. I drove the truck and never had a problem.
As for a master cylinder I would recommend the remote fill with power booster from No Limit Eng part # PBF-56CR. It is a complete kit to mount the included master cyl and booster in place of the original master cyl and you can still use your original pedals for brake and clutch. No more crawling under the truck to check/fill master cylinder.
Also be sure to get prop valve and residual valves or a combination valve to make the discs work with the rear drums.
As for a master cylinder I would recommend the remote fill with power booster from No Limit Eng part # PBF-56CR. It is a complete kit to mount the included master cyl and booster in place of the original master cyl and you can still use your original pedals for brake and clutch. No more crawling under the truck to check/fill master cylinder.
Also be sure to get prop valve and residual valves or a combination valve to make the discs work with the rear drums.
Last edited by rogerf100; Sep 13, 2006 at 06:19 PM.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: rochester n.y.
disc brake conv.
I am in the process of installing disc brake kit on my 54 f250. have to move the grease fittings on one side only,they use the same spindle on both sides so the fittings are on the front on one side and the rear on the other. I am in the process now of drilling the holes with the spindles on the king pins,much fun.Had much fun installing the bearing adaptors,heat did not help,had to remove with a puller when stuck halfway,spent much time with emery paper working on the spindles to make them fit.also needed emery to make bearing fit.the kit was from mid-fifty,the instruction sheet was classic performance.the main ingredience for these kits is patience.
F250 RED
F250 RED
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 216
Likes: 18
From: Central NC
still working on mine too.........
yes, thought about notching the adapter plate for the fittings.... still drilled new ones.....
I wish I had caught on about the remote res. master cylinders....
I would be installing one of those instead....
=====
see my note above on drilling the fitting.... I had to flat bottom a drill to get the hole to flow grease... careful with that tap!
and YES... the bearing adaptors are a pain......... I did not sand spindle... I felt the press/shrink fit would help more than the adaptor spinning on the spindle.... also found it necessary to fit bearing to adaptor OD.
ONE TIP>>>>>>>>>
Test fit everything FIRST... before greasing bearings.......
We found everything had not seated correctly when installing calipers, driver side rotor was .060 further from caliper mounting than pass side..... with caliper installed, no turrney........
All fine now... have progressed thru this further... got to bend up some lines and rebuild rear brakes and bleed out....
Did U get the Clutch Linkage relocation kit????? got a story for that too!
.
yes, thought about notching the adapter plate for the fittings.... still drilled new ones.....
I wish I had caught on about the remote res. master cylinders....
I would be installing one of those instead....
=====
see my note above on drilling the fitting.... I had to flat bottom a drill to get the hole to flow grease... careful with that tap!
and YES... the bearing adaptors are a pain......... I did not sand spindle... I felt the press/shrink fit would help more than the adaptor spinning on the spindle.... also found it necessary to fit bearing to adaptor OD.
ONE TIP>>>>>>>>>
Test fit everything FIRST... before greasing bearings.......
We found everything had not seated correctly when installing calipers, driver side rotor was .060 further from caliper mounting than pass side..... with caliper installed, no turrney........
All fine now... have progressed thru this further... got to bend up some lines and rebuild rear brakes and bleed out....
Did U get the Clutch Linkage relocation kit????? got a story for that too!
.
