turbo install?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
Likes: 1
turbo install?
I am going to be installing a van turbo, ats housing and wicked wheel in about two weeks, when everything gets here. I have searched and found some good articles but if anyone has any links to help installing this setup it would be great. I remember reading a couple weeks ago where to get the pedistal so i will try to search for that. Any additional advice or parts i am going to need, o-rings or what not? In case it matters i also will be getting my chip from jody next week and valve body from bts this week. Just trying to get as much advice as possible in advance. Thanks for your help
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
Likes: 6
From: Cabot, Arkansas
Pretty much everything you need is in this article: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...tallation.html
Are you talking about replacing the pedestal with the non-EBV variety? I got mine from Dieselsite, but they also can still be ordered through the Ford dealer.
Are you talking about replacing the pedestal with the non-EBV variety? I got mine from Dieselsite, but they also can still be ordered through the Ford dealer.
Last edited by cookie88; Aug 3, 2006 at 09:04 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
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From: Tucson, AZ
I installed, removed, and re-installed mine 4 times this week.. By the last time I had it down to under and hour to swap the turbo.. SAD
It's actually pretty easy if you have air tools and if your truck isn't lifted. If it's lifted like mine HAVE FUN (and let the air out of your tires)!!
It's actually pretty easy if you have air tools and if your truck isn't lifted. If it's lifted like mine HAVE FUN (and let the air out of your tires)!!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
Likes: 1
Thanks guys. That article was just what i was looking for. I never even thought to look in the article section, still kinda new to the site. Thanks for the advice on the pedistal cookie, that was what i was looking for. Any other advice on the install or thoughts on the performance of this setup.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
Likes: 6
From: Cabot, Arkansas
With both the big housings and the wheel it may be pretty doggy until you get that chip in it. It will perform quite well afterwards.
If you use vaseline, or any petroleum jelly to hold the o-rings in during the installation (I always do), be advised that the vaseline will melt and run out of the mounting splitlines initially looking like a leak. Unless it's just pouring oil out on the ground, assume it's the vaseline and give it a day or two to clear up.
If you use vaseline, or any petroleum jelly to hold the o-rings in during the installation (I always do), be advised that the vaseline will melt and run out of the mounting splitlines initially looking like a leak. Unless it's just pouring oil out on the ground, assume it's the vaseline and give it a day or two to clear up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
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From: 21791
Great advice Scott. that is the article i used to remove the turbo the first time. ive done it four times now and i probably could do it with my eyes closed. lifted truck= sitting on the engine the whole time and sore ribs the next day. oh well its all good..
and with the o-rings, make sure to replace them and do not use the stock ones no matter how good they look. most likely they will leak and you will get another chance at improving your time at removing and installing the turbo.
and with the o-rings, make sure to replace them and do not use the stock ones no matter how good they look. most likely they will leak and you will get another chance at improving your time at removing and installing the turbo.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
Likes: 1
Thanks again guys. That is the kind of advice i could use since i have never taken the turbo off before. Hopefully with all the advice from this site i won't have any problems with it. One other question, i have read that with the bigger housings some recommend not using the wicked wheel. Any thoughts on weather to use the stock or wicked wheel. Thanks
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
First, I'd look to KCM Diesel for the o-rings. They're just slightly oversized, thus helping to prevent leaks in the future. Actually, they have an 11 piece turbo bolt kit that I would get, as it's got all new o-rings and new turbo hold down bolts. Link here: http://members.***.net/kcmdieselperformance/gaskets.htm
As far as using a WW with the van turbo and ATS, I would stick with the stock wheel. A guy I know (doesn't post here) did some extensive testing of a van turbo / ATS / WW combination, in every combo possible (WW/ATS, WW/stock housing, stock wheel/ATS, & stock wheel/stock housing). He found the best results from the ATS housing and stock wheel. Plus, the WW is designed to eliminate surge. But, with the van turbo and ATS housing, you will not have a surge problem. The WW does a have a little more whistle though. However, the WW does not flow as much air as the stock wheel....how can it when every other vane is approximately half the size of the stock wheel. Less vane area = less area to grab and push air.
As far as using a WW with the van turbo and ATS, I would stick with the stock wheel. A guy I know (doesn't post here) did some extensive testing of a van turbo / ATS / WW combination, in every combo possible (WW/ATS, WW/stock housing, stock wheel/ATS, & stock wheel/stock housing). He found the best results from the ATS housing and stock wheel. Plus, the WW is designed to eliminate surge. But, with the van turbo and ATS housing, you will not have a surge problem. The WW does a have a little more whistle though. However, the WW does not flow as much air as the stock wheel....how can it when every other vane is approximately half the size of the stock wheel. Less vane area = less area to grab and push air.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
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Thanks jtharvey, for the link. For 28 dollars it's worth the investment. I had thought i read the stock wheel was better with the housing.
Jtharvey, i noticed in your gallery that you had to cut the lip off the exhaust housing and weld a different one on. If i get the adaptor i shouldn't have to do this modifacation right. Is there anything else about the ebpv that needs to be modified to work or is the ebpv all set up. Thanks
Jtharvey, i noticed in your gallery that you had to cut the lip off the exhaust housing and weld a different one on. If i get the adaptor i shouldn't have to do this modifacation right. Is there anything else about the ebpv that needs to be modified to work or is the ebpv all set up. Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 1
From: Central Alabama
Hey Ponch, let me know if you plan on doing the EBPV lip modification like jtharvey did. I happen to have a van EBPV that I will not be using when I put my Van turbo on. I don't know where you are from but if your from the extreme North or tow alot then I would consider it. I live in the armpit of Alabama and I only tow a 9000K TT once a month, so I have no need for it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by ponch37300
Jtharvey, i noticed in your gallery that you had to cut the lip off the exhaust housing and weld a different one on. If i get the adaptor i shouldn't have to do this modifacation right. Is there anything else about the ebpv that needs to be modified to work or is the ebpv all set up. Thanks
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
Likes: 1
Jtharvey...If i want to keep the ebpv i have to cut and weld like you, the adaptor doesn't work? The adaptor came with the setup i bought so i guess i will just sell that. My friend is a good welder and works at a pipe shop so that shouldn't be a problem. If i keep the ebpv can i use the stock pedistal or do i need a different one? Where did you get your new ebpv? Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
The adaptor does not work with the EBPV. It is a direct replacement for the EBPV, so they cannot work together. The 3 bolt pattern on the adapter is the same as the 3 bolt pattern on the van EBPV. Take a second look at my gallery and compare my EBPV to your adapter. I think you'll see how the adapter goes in place of the EBPV.
If you keep the EBPV the stock pedistal will work just fine. You just may have to adjust the rod length coming out of the pedistal a turn or two to be sure the butterfly is in the full open position, but that the rod does not have any tension on it. Tension on the rod might starve the turbo for oil.
I got my van EBPV from Shop Diesel. Make sure that your welder knows that this piece can see periodic temps upwards of 850* and sustained temps in the 600* range. That might affect what type of welding he chooses to do.
If you keep the EBPV the stock pedistal will work just fine. You just may have to adjust the rod length coming out of the pedistal a turn or two to be sure the butterfly is in the full open position, but that the rod does not have any tension on it. Tension on the rod might starve the turbo for oil.
I got my van EBPV from Shop Diesel. Make sure that your welder knows that this piece can see periodic temps upwards of 850* and sustained temps in the 600* range. That might affect what type of welding he chooses to do.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
Likes: 1
Cookie mentioned that it will be "doggy" untill i get my chip put in. This may be a silly question but with a chip, intake, exhaust, valve body the truck will have more power with this turbo setup than stock, right? Thanks