Positive Stop Rockers????
I have "positive stop" rockers on my 73 302 F100. No adjustment. Just tighten them down.
My lifters (new) are clattering on startup for a few seconds, then they quit. It runs good, but doesnt seem to sound right at an idle (lope) and seems to be choked some while driving. It just doesnt seem to run right.....
Does anyone have any experience or ideas on these rockers? Do they work? Do I need to adjust them like normal hydraulic lifters to get the zero lash effect?
I am thinking I need to loosen them, let the lifters relax, and snug them back up til I get the lash out and then tighten them and lock them?
Any ideas here from someone who has had them or messed with them?
Thanks,
Last edited by dtherren; Jul 31, 2006 at 05:51 PM. Reason: adding too it

Making "One" off-forum topic ocassionally is okay but if 200 hundred people decided to by-pass the system and post questions that should be made elsewhere would create havoc

You can always mention in a post (on another topic) you make on this forum that you made a thread about lifters in the engine forum and no one has replied yet

Topic:
Your problem has nothing to to with the rockers.
Your problem is the Lifters, Oil drain out, possibly plugged orificies from carbon or gasket material.
Also the pushrods could make a difference.
How much did you torque the rocker nuts down ?
How soon does this happen after the engine has been sitting not running ?
Oil viscosity somewhat plays into this as well.
My suggestion: Put some additive in that oil to make sure the cam lodes have a film of lubricant on start up.
Marvels Mystery Lube comes to mind.
I use Penzoil 20w50 and correct procedures and proper lube when I installed everything. i lubed timing chain, gears, cam, lifters, rods, rockers, etc.......
I torqued to specs on the rockers, but I think it is too much. It was also that way when I took it apart.
I am using fram filters, and oil pressure is good, except at an idle with my foot on the brake. I also notice a variance in rpm when I apply the brake like a vacumn leak, but I have checked and replace all the lines and all the gaskets.
I am wondering about a vacumn canister? Maybe vacumn is too low, but not enough to effect timing. Timing is also dead on by "ear" and it cranks really sharp.
I dont see it as being zero lash on the rockers the way it is. It is way plus zero..........
That is why I am wondering if that system worked. Any other motor was leave them loose until they pump up and then zero lash.......
Get yourself some Motorcraft filters,
See the filter threads in the GAD or Oil/Lubrication forums.
You never said what brand of engine parts you installed.
TRW,Sealed Power, ?
Vacuum leaks is a science to track them down.
Have you been using carb cleaner with a wand ,spraying in and around every possible orifice ?
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It was created with the intend of going into the combustion chamber.
Fram filters:
Do a search there is tons of info on FTE about them.
I havent used carb cleaner or ether to detect a vac leak.....yet, but I did use a homeade stethescope(?) to try and detect any leaks. I did find one on the carb. A vac line that I missed. I prefer ether myself.....
That way if I find a leak and have a wire grounding in the same area there is no mistake where the leak is....
Dennis, In another post you mentioned a diagram of vac lines. Can you send that to me. A 302 intake and motorcraft 2bbl carb for a 73? Thanks if you can. I may not have all the lines correct after changing to a Edelbrock intake and 1405 carb.
I used Edelbrock (carb and intake), Summit (headers with VHT coating), Crane (cam and lifters), TRW (double roller chain and gears) and Napa (gaskets, 2.5 in pipe and hangers, etc) parts.
I do not buy anything from Autozone, Pepboys, or O'reilly's unless I cant get it anywhere else.
Im still wondering if the lack of zero lash on the rockers is the problem......
Thanks





