coolant leak
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
I managed to get everything apart. The damper was quite a chore; it held on to the crank all the way to the end.
As I disassembled the system, I found a couple of bolts around the leakage area to be only finger tight. No wonder the gasket failed; there was almost no clamping force on it. This must be more of the results of engine vibration.
I also replaced the front main seal since I had the front cover off. It does not have a positive stop like the rear main seal does, so I carefully pushed it in place, and measured its depth at 4 places around the rim to make sure it was seated square.
After I assembled the cooling system, I made a little cap with a presta valve that I used with my bicycle pump to pressurise the system. I got about 14 psi into it, and it held, even though the radiator cap was rated at 13 psi. I then applied a little more to see if I can get the cap to vent. Suddenly, WHOOSH! Coolant started to gush out from the water pump. Either it was weak or I put to much pressure into it, but now I get to replace it as well. (^&*#%!!)
As I disassembled the system, I found a couple of bolts around the leakage area to be only finger tight. No wonder the gasket failed; there was almost no clamping force on it. This must be more of the results of engine vibration.
I also replaced the front main seal since I had the front cover off. It does not have a positive stop like the rear main seal does, so I carefully pushed it in place, and measured its depth at 4 places around the rim to make sure it was seated square.
After I assembled the cooling system, I made a little cap with a presta valve that I used with my bicycle pump to pressurise the system. I got about 14 psi into it, and it held, even though the radiator cap was rated at 13 psi. I then applied a little more to see if I can get the cap to vent. Suddenly, WHOOSH! Coolant started to gush out from the water pump. Either it was weak or I put to much pressure into it, but now I get to replace it as well. (^&*#%!!)
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,013
Likes: 205
From: SoCal
I installed the new water pump today; it's amazing how easy that is when there is no front accessories or fan/shroud in the way, and the harmonic damper removed. I did another pressure test, and this time, the radiator cap released first, at around 15 psi. The cap has the words "13 Pounds" written on it; I assumed that meant 13 psi.
Unfortunately, in the process of removing the front cover and water pump, some coolant spilled into the oil pan. So I carefully opened up the drain plug, and drained out the coolant until oil started to flow out. I'm not sure how much coolant is left in the oil, and I hope it won't be too damaging.
I had to get a longer M12/1.5 bolt to pull the harmonic damper into position. The stock bolt is too short to do this when the damper is sitting on the end of the crank snout.
The only other concern I have left is that all the hoses are pretty old (originals). I didn't see any damages inside any of the hoses, but I'm worried about them giving out. Most of them are pretty specific; they have those stupid clip-lock connectors, and there are a couple of them that have Y-splits for the rear heater. Are there other sources for these?
Unfortunately, in the process of removing the front cover and water pump, some coolant spilled into the oil pan. So I carefully opened up the drain plug, and drained out the coolant until oil started to flow out. I'm not sure how much coolant is left in the oil, and I hope it won't be too damaging.
I had to get a longer M12/1.5 bolt to pull the harmonic damper into position. The stock bolt is too short to do this when the damper is sitting on the end of the crank snout.
The only other concern I have left is that all the hoses are pretty old (originals). I didn't see any damages inside any of the hoses, but I'm worried about them giving out. Most of them are pretty specific; they have those stupid clip-lock connectors, and there are a couple of them that have Y-splits for the rear heater. Are there other sources for these?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
use a lead shot or brass hammer to start harmonic damper on further
Gates makes the specific Aero heater hoses, spendy
the clip lock connectors are avail aftermarket to make up your own hoses
Gates makes the specific Aero heater hoses, spendy
the clip lock connectors are avail aftermarket to make up your own hoses
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