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bleeding fuel pressure

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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 03:24 PM
  #16  
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Just one more thing....

Is there a special tool I need to remove the fuel lines from the filter? I noticed the plastic tabs, but the lines themselves are square and I'm wondering if I need something else to remove them.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 03:37 PM
  #17  
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what year is your truck?
older trucks '88 etc. you could use a flat screwdriver to pry clip out at the flat spot. that is why i mentioned earlier to buy extra clips, just in case. the clips as prone to damage....when not using the proper tool. there are tools-from the dealer you can buy, but i used a screwdrive...proper method, maybe not, but i had to do the repair roadside.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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2000 3.0 EFI, NON FFV There are plastic clips on the lines, but they can be removed with finger pressure. The guy at the parts store mentioned spring clips inside the line that had to be removed - so I got some 9 dollar fuel line remover tool that basically is supposed to compress that internal spring.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 05:07 PM
  #19  
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So how do you remove the lines, pull the plastic clips all the way off the hose? Pull them most of the way out and yank really hard on the fuel line?

Do I need something to remove the fuel line after the plastic clips are off or is pulling sufficient?

BTW: bleeding fuel through the valve at the fuel rail takes a long time and a LOT of gas comes out of that thing.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #20  
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I mentioned ealier that you can use a flat tip screwdriver to pull the white plastic clip out- all the way- at the flat spot opposite the two prongs. I also mentioned to buy a couple of these clips in case they get damaged on the way out. The hoses should be snug, but not where excess force is needed. It should pull off easily.
There will be alot of gas in the lines, that is why you had to release the pressure first.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 05:33 PM
  #21  
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What did you do to bleed the fuel from the fuel rail?
All that was needed was to release fuel pressure, all you had to do was depress valve(like letting air out of a tire) until system equalized to outside air.
Holding the valve for a second or two would have been enough.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 05:49 PM
  #22  
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Wow there's the easy way. instead we almost had hime take out the engine, drop the tank. put new shock on(for what purpose i have no clue). but he can actually press a button. simple
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 05:52 PM
  #23  
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I read you on the clips, that's fine I didn't know if it had to come all the way out or just enough to be loose. I didn't want to risk anything so I wimped out until I asked for more information.


As to the fuel pressure, I depressed the stem on the valve and it took about 6 or 7 5 second blasts to equalize pressure - it seems like a lot when you have to soak it up with a rag to avoid getting it all over the exhaust manifold.

I'm being wimpy on this one because it isn't absolutely necessary to do right now this second, and also because I don't want to have gas shoot all over me while under the truck.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 06:00 PM
  #24  
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You should be fine, there will be fuel in the line. All the pressure should be gone when you remove the lines at the filter. If you want to be safe you could have a gas safe container to catch the fuel from the lines, and a rag handy to clean the floor. Mainly so you don't have to work in the spilled fuel.
keep us posted.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 06:09 PM
  #25  
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Did you just get the clips at the auto parts store, or is that a dealership thing? I did actually mention them at the parts store I got the filter at because the first one I (mistakenly) got had 2 clips in the box but the trade in I walked out with didn't. The guy looked confused when I mentioned them so I didn't press the issue.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 06:14 PM
  #26  
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I got mine from the dealer, I need other items too. Not to sure if parts stores carry these clips. Remove yours carefully, and the next time you go to a dealer. Head for the parts counter and get some, and any other small stuff you may need.
Make sure you tell them what it is for, There are blue ones that won't work.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 08:14 AM
  #27  
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All that I have ever done is make sure that the ignition key is off and then wrap a shop towel around the old filter while disconnecting the fasteners. It only sprays a little bit of fuel for about a second. (Follow Pawpaw's sage advice about gloves, goggles, shop lights and smokers.) Even if you do drain the pressure off at the valve on the fuel rail, it will still drip a little when you take the old filter off. The old filter will have a lot of fuel in it so plug both ends when you handle it. I would suggest having some speedy dry ready no matter which method you use. (Compare the weight of the old filter with that of the new one. The old one is full of dirt and gasoline) Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 08:44 AM
  #28  
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I don't realy like to bleed the fuel pressure off at the fuel rail valve, as it's a real fire hazzard that you only have to get wrong ONE time & fuel is toxic.

By cranking the engine, to bleed the fuel pressure off, you keep the fuel in the engine where it belongs & it's much safer there, imo
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 11:41 AM
  #29  
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I second pawpaw's method, that's what I do.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 01:19 PM
  #30  
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Well personally I did both. Ran it dry then bled it off at the valve.
 
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