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Adjusting clutch

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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 01:35 AM
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Question Adjusting clutch

Can you adjust hydraulic clutch ? I have to push the ped all the way down to get into gear. is it time for a new clutch job or can I bleed or adjust before spending loot I dont have?? 1988 f150 300 inline 5 speed..
 
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 06:20 AM
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You can try bleeding it, but generally when the pedal has to hit the floor to release it the clutch needs to be replaced. Make sure you have the flywheel resurfaced if there is any surface irregularities or bluing (I would anyway just to be safe).

It's not adjustable. You can make a new actuation rod that is a hair longer than stock, however that's not going to buy you that much time.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 07:25 AM
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Isn't that the opposite direction of clutch wear? As the clutch disk gets thinner, wouldn't it release closer to the top of the pedal travel?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 08:35 AM
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I had the same issue with my clutch. I couldn't get it into gear unless the pedal bounced off the floorboards. When I took the clutch out, it was about 17 miles from scraping the rivets on the flywheel, hence my advice.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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Very interesting...
 
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by EPNCSU2006
Very interesting...
What you said above makes a lot of sense, and I didnt' really think about it when I took the clutch out. it started slipping so it was time to replace it, and when I pulled it out it was essentially dead.

But I experienced the same symptons as the original poster - clutch usefulness was at the floor and there was difficulty shifting into gear unless the pedal hit the floorboards.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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I've noticed the same thing on my truck, but it does seem counter-intuitive to me as well.

With a thicker clutch disc, the pressure plate fingers are going to be pushed in towards the flywheel more, so you think the clutch would engage lower towards the floor - right?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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think of it this way. with less clutch disc material, the throwout bearing is going to have to travel farther to disengage the clutch, requiring more fluid, hence more pedal travel , which results in clutch pedal to the floor.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 06:08 AM
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^ That thought came to mind after I posted yesterday.
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but...I have a 91 F250 with the 300I6 and the heavy duty Z tranny. 62K on the truck. My clutch slips - I can't jam the gas - even while cruising - without the clutch slipping. I replaced the tranny fluid, and just replace all u-joints recently. The thing i don't understand, after reading this thread, is where my clutch engages. If the clutch travels 12", I need to bring it up 9-10" until it will grab. IOW, the clutch does not finally engage until the clutch is almost all the way up. Is this normal? Because this is exactly the opposite what you guys are saying here! I would like to have a clutch that does not slip, more than that I would like the clutch to grab as I am moving up, not once my foot is off of the floor because it is so high
Thanks,

-dan
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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ttt? i hope, didn't seem to do that yesterday
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 10:39 PM
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sounds like ya need a new clutch
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 06:53 AM
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I posted incorrectly when I replied several years ago. The way the hydraulic system works, the clutch should engage at pretty much the same place throughout the life of the clutch. The throwout bearing will move the same distance irrespective of clutch disc thickness, and the only thing that changes as the disc wears is the resting engaged position. If it begins to slip, it is likely time for a new clutch.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 07:16 AM
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you need a new clutch if it is slipping. could be an oil leak getting on the clutch, and making it slip, regardless, if it is slipping, it is done. if it is due to oil leak, you will have to repair the leak, or you will be back to where you started from, only now you will have a slipping NEW clutch
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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How would I be able to tell if there is an oil leak? Would I have to wait until I pull it apart? Or is there a way to tell beforehand?

-dan
 
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