I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and replace the floor pan.cad support and step risor on my 57F100.How hard is it to do with the cab on the frame,also thankful for any advice on how to best go about it.
Thanks all.

 

The frame does make a decent weld jig, however, the big problem is what happens to the stuff (wiring, plumbing) under the cab when you are welding the pans back in. Also, from the sound if it (pan, support and riser), you have a substantial section of one whole corner of the cab involved in your restoration. What happens to the cab geometry when you cut the bad stuff away?

You need to make sure you freeze the proper geometry before you start cutting away what little support exists. I would weld some temporary supports (1 x 1 square tube is good) across and diagonal in the door openings (with the doors in the holes) before anything else. Then I would pull the doors and then the cab to do the floor, sill and cab support(s). In fact, you'll probably have it on and off the frame a couple of times, especially to do the supports. Tack them when the cab is positioned correctly, then take it off and finish them up.

There are shortcuts to this procedure, but they usually come with quality compromises like a front clip that won't fit because the cab's not square.

Good luck.

BTW, don't be too daunted about this kind of stuff. It sounds really tough, but it isn't that bad. We are here to help you through any questions.

Also, when you're done, you'll get an amazing satisfaction from doing the work yourself. It really is the best part of this hobby.

 

go for it man i did pretty much the same thing to my 59 i didn't even reiforce before i cut it all out like i should have but the front clip seems to fit good luck and keep us posted on how turns out

 

I'm interested in how it comes out too. My son cut the brace when he cut out the floor by accident. Now we have to do the brace too. Won't happen until the fall school semester though.

 

I was just looking at the truck again this mourning and it looks like I can do the floor and cab suuport first and then do the riser.The riser and the step should keep the door opening stable and then do the riser,what do you think?,also is there online a site that has collision manuel for that old a truck.

 

It is quite possible that the riser will work to keep the whole cab stable while the floor pan and cab mount are replaced. The floor and its braces may keep the cab correct while the riser gets replaced.

It is a bit of a crap shoot though. Most pros I know do the bracing thru the door area before whacking it all apart just to be sure. The braces go in and out very easily. It is cheap insurance.

Your call. Or as Clint Eastwood said..."Do you feel lucky?"