I have a 1995 Ford F-150 and the other day while driving she started to bog like she was out of gas. I switched to the rear tank and proceeded to the nearest gas station.

I put gas into both tanks and left. While driving I went ahead and switched back to the front tank and the motor died again like no gas. Well finally got around to dropping the tank and removing the fuel pump. Before taking it down to the dealer to match up numbers and order a new one I decided to try a little experiment.

Took the pump to the front of the truck and using two jumper wires one from the positive and one from the negative side of the battery. I touched them to the corresponding posts on the pump and low and behold it began working. Did this a couple of times and she worked great. Took it around the side of the truck and pulled the wiring harness from underneath. Connected it to the pump and changed the selector switch in the cab to "front" and the pump worked. I was thrilled. Put it back in the tank connected all the lines and filler tube. Raised the tank up with a jack into place and thought to myself before I bolt this in better try it again. BAM!!!! Nothing.

Fiddled with the harness a little and still nothing. I noticed a little corrosion on the pins in the harness. Going to get my meter out and see if I have power to there in the morning. Also gonna clean up those pins a little. If the relay were bad would the rear pump continue to work? Wouldn't they both shut down. It could also be the selector switch although I doubt it. Any ways I'm glad I didn't get it all bolted back in. Hopefully it's at the connector. A new pump runs $130.00 without the fuel level reader. That's another $50.00. Don't mind spending the money if that is the problem. Just hate to put a new pump in and it do the same thing.

When changing the selector switch from front to rear you can hear the whine of the rear pump so I know it's working. When the front was working I could switch back and forth and hear the whine from both.

 

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Check eBay for new pumps, usually one there. I paid $38 shipped for mine. For that $$$ it's not worth putting the old one back in. Look for an E2059M or E2059MN for the front tank.
(edit) This one is more than I paid but still way cheaper than the $130.00.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-F...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Thanks I'll keep an eye out. That pump is without the fuel level reader. Mine was going hokey before the pump went out. Sometimes it would read and sometimes would say empty even though you just put $20.00 in the tank. I used to just run the front until it went empty and then switch to the back. Then stop for gas.

 

Cheap parts - you get what you pay for. Unless you don't mind changing the fuel pump often, I would spring for the quality stuff.

If it were the relay, you're right - the rear tank wouldn't work. But I wouldn't rule out that selector switch in the dash, either. I've seen more than one go bad.

 

Okay took my meter and inserted the red lead into one of the red wire holes and the black lead I inserted into the other three. I got a reading of 6.84 V from two of the configurations and a -1.24 from the last one. What should I be reading here. It appears I'm getting power from the switch to the connection. Upon further review the corrosion I thought I saw last night was actually white electrical grease. It was getting dark at the time when I first looked thus the mistake.

 

nranchero - that ebay auction is for a real Ford fuel pump. That's a smokin' deal! But just don't buy a Bronco fuel pump for your F-150.

Psycho, what connector are you getting these readings from?

 

The harness that comes from the top of the fuel pump to a connector located by the fuel filter. You can disonnect there so that you can pull the tank out from under the truck. So I used the female end coming from the switch I assume for my readings. The male end is attached to the harness that goes to the top of the fuel pump. I did go ahead and pull the tank again and have the fuel pump out. I checked for continuity from the pins of the male connector to the posts on the fuel pump where the wire to the pump are connected to make sure I didn't have a bad wire in the harness. All is good there. When that tank is pressed up tight to the bottom of the truck those wires get "bent" over and I wanted to make sure one did not break.

 

Those are Airtex pumps, good as any. I put one in my last 95 F150.

I'm an ASE Master Parts Tech, Automotive/Truck, with 33 years experience. I don't recommend cheap junk.

 

[QUOTE=andym]nranchero - that ebay auction is for a real Ford fuel pump. That's a smokin' deal! But just don't buy a Bronco fuel pump for your F-150.
QUOTE]

Same pump as this one from the same guy that spells out F150 .
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...QQcmdZViewItem
If it references E2059M or E2059MN it is for the '95 mid-ship steel F150 tank. If the gauge sender is bad, no it won't fix that.

 

I wasn't real clear before, sorry about that. That *is* a good pump. Normally, when someone spends $30 on a high pressure fuel pump, I'd run. But that's a good deal. I'll be ebay shopping for fuel pumps next time.

 

Did I mention I was poor too? I have to shop eBay!

 

Pscho Sasquatch,

I have a 1993 F-150 4x4 that has seen quite the interesting life. This is a work truck and saw most of its life on a farm. When I bought it from the farmer, both pumps worked... except the truck would not start off of the front tank, only the back. Once it was running, it would run from the front tank without any problems. I hooked up a fuel pressure guage and turned the ignition on, but did not start it. I read 22PSI... that is quite low. Doing the same on the rear tank, I read 35 PSI, which is about average (30-40PSI is normal on these vehicles). Startup pressure is usually a little higher, but average 35PSI running (give or take) is normal. Anyways, I left it parked last summer and began driving it again in the winter, and lo and behold, it did the same thing yours did. Now I haven't checked the fuel pressure again since, because I only use it to bring stuff to the dump, but I think my pump is shot. My suggestion is to put the guage on it and see what you get, because that may tell you part of the story. 0PSI = electrical most likely. Inadequate pressure is most likely the pump (or maybe lines, but unlikely). Anyways, good luck... let me know how you make out. L8r!

 

ncranchero, what's a good way to test the selector switch to see if it is bad? Thanks.

 

Kind of short on time this morning but here's a diagram that should help.