Why do aero windows leak?
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Why do aero windows leak?
Just wondering how the windows in the back develope leaks. I did the right rear one and noticed bubbles in the goop butyl stuff wondering if in the heat it outgases and holes develope in the butyl..I used 3/8 cause the book called for 5/16. After doing the right window I can't see how it would ever leak...I now have to do the left window in the rear. I went to home depot with the family today and it was pouring rain..Small leak which means doing the whole window. Not a bad job.
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Dick
Dick
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Dick
Dick
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: North Alabama
Several factors to consider, particularly age (the newest Aerostar is now 10 years old), the sealant drying and cracking, body flexing, and just general wear and tear. Seema like they could have used some better stuff, though.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: North Alabama
That's odd. The only think I could guess on that is that perhaps they used too much air pressure when piping on the sealant. I've seen that sort ot thing happen when piping foam into refrigerator cases.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: North Alabama
I had to use the GE clear silicone stuff in my pneumatic caulking gun to re-do my side windows. No leaks so far, but I still have a windshield leak I can't find. It doesn't appear to be at the edge of the glass, but it makes the headliner wet at the top corners.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Oh gosh that be the suff not to use. You'll never get the window out again if you totally gued it...
Dick
Dick
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
I had to help my friend re-seal his rear window because the previous owner did a bad job of sealing it with silicone RTV. It was a struggle to start stripping the RTV sealant, but once we got started, it was surprisingly easy to pull it all off of the entire perimeter of the window. It looks like someone used a whole tube of the stuff on the window, yet a leak developed anyway; the RTV just separated from the body part that it was glued to.
We replaced it with 3/8" butyl rubber sealant, since that stuff seems to stay soft and compliant for almost ever. My theory is that the butyl rubber will move with the distortions that the body parts will undergo, while the silicone RTV sets up much more rigidly and not nearly as compliant.
We replaced it with 3/8" butyl rubber sealant, since that stuff seems to stay soft and compliant for almost ever. My theory is that the butyl rubber will move with the distortions that the body parts will undergo, while the silicone RTV sets up much more rigidly and not nearly as compliant.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Washington state
the skyscraper sized pieces of glass in the Aero absorb large amounts of solar energy, i.e. heat, especially the solar tinted glass...lots of thermal expansion distortion from heating and cooling daily
also gets pressurized from inside by solar heating, slamming doors and running fan
Ford dealer body tech told me they have the most problem with the glass on the vans...had lots of problems with glass manuf. for Aero....windshield and one side replaced due to factory casting warpage defects in mine....
also gets pressurized from inside by solar heating, slamming doors and running fan
Ford dealer body tech told me they have the most problem with the glass on the vans...had lots of problems with glass manuf. for Aero....windshield and one side replaced due to factory casting warpage defects in mine....
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: North Alabama
I think the secret there is to avoid using too much. Granted, I used a special tool to get a 5/32 bead, which looks like not enough, but is just right to hold the window in and the water out. I have taken one out to replace the glass, and had no trouble, so I am hoping my luck holds out on the rest. The butyl rubber stuff would probably be a better choice, but I used what I had on hand.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: cincinnati hamilton
when i took out the side panels on my 91 i found the back windows had small bolts holding them in , with the small nuts facing inward . i tightened all i could get to, that seemed to take care of my leaks. they were suprizingly loose. i guess that expansion and contraction theory would account for that also. rick
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
I had windshield leak and I wanted to fix it, but the passanger's headnock in acident was the lust in life of my old windshield.... so I have new windshield and it does not leak (Use seatbelts, it can save not only your head, but the windshield too).
Now the left sliding window leaks. This girl, who broke the windshield by her head tell me, "may be I hit this window by my head too and the next leaking problem would be solved?" Just kidding of course... But what is the cheapest way to stop it leaking?
Now the left sliding window leaks. This girl, who broke the windshield by her head tell me, "may be I hit this window by my head too and the next leaking problem would be solved?" Just kidding of course... But what is the cheapest way to stop it leaking?
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Years ago I just taped the top of the window with black tape on my 94. That lasted a year or so then I masked off an area above the window and siliconed between the paint and black trim. My 96 has to be right so I pulled both rear windows and used 3/8 butyl and It will never leak there again. The side window on that side is a pain cause the trim panel has to come off all the way..
Dick
Dick
