Transfer case shift motor
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Transfer case shift motor
My 4x4 wasn't working so I took the shift motor off and cleaned it up on the inside. I put everything back together exactly as it was and then ran 12 volts straight to it just to make sure that it was working right. I put it back on the transfer case this morning and turned the key on and the 4x4 and low range lights were illuminated on the dash. I put it in neutral and pushed the low range button and got the click but no motor movement. My question is, is it possible that when I hooked the 12 volts up to it that I let the motor turn too far? Assuming this is the case, the lights are on because the shift motor and sensors think that the truck is in low range, right??? And finally, I guess I could just take the cap off the end of the motor and turn the armature a few times to "adjust" it back into operating range???
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
When removing/installing the shift motor it is imperative that you take note of the position of the armature in relationship to the mounting so that it can be "clocked" as it was when the motor was removed. If this doesn't happen, you will need to figure out what drive setting the T-case was set to prior to the shift motor removal and then when you install the motor, make certain the armature lines up with the marks on the rear of the T-case casting that indicate where the armature should be when the T-case is in the mode selected. I know... reads like stereo instructions. Basically , you have to have the armature lines up before you install the motor. It will not clock properly by turning the armature after its installed into the T-case.
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Thanks for the help grey. I finally got it to work. I decided to take the motor apart and put it back together again. I don't have the slightest clue what I did differently, except for the fact that I made sure the armature inside the motor spun freely before I put it all back together. I put it back on the transfer case and it worked just like it should.
BTW- Someone should write up a post about how easy it is to clean these shift motors. There really is NOTHING to it. Even an amateur could do it. And as for the three wires that go into the transfer case(sensor IDs and magnetic clutch feed), everyone should know that they DON'T have to be cut and spliced. There is a red lock(a plastic piece around the center pin) in the connector that can be pulled out with a pick of some kind that will allow the pins to be released with a screwdriver. But anyway, thanks again.
BTW- Someone should write up a post about how easy it is to clean these shift motors. There really is NOTHING to it. Even an amateur could do it. And as for the three wires that go into the transfer case(sensor IDs and magnetic clutch feed), everyone should know that they DON'T have to be cut and spliced. There is a red lock(a plastic piece around the center pin) in the connector that can be pulled out with a pick of some kind that will allow the pins to be released with a screwdriver. But anyway, thanks again.
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
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From: Caracas, Venezuela
I have a question also: I´ve been told by several mechanics that the Tranfer case shares its fluid with the gearbox in the case of automatic trucks, is it truth? and if it´s: does keeping the level of the fluid in the gearbox ok enough to keep the T-case well lubbed?
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
It was no confusion, they absolutely told me the oir ran through both units but it didn´t made sense to me so i asked 
it´s good to know i was right, thx for the replies
it´s good to know i was right, thx for the replies
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I had the seal spin off of the t-case input shaft coming home last Christmas from the inlaws - it moved forward about an inch. The tranny pumps the oil into the adapter on the back end of the tranny and then the fluid drains back into the sump, unless the seal is buggered up. Then it fills the t-case with tranny fluid and your tranny starts slipping out of gear. I suppose once you filled the t-case enough it would drain back into the tranny sump. The Borg-Warner 1356 t-cases do use ATF Dextron III fluid just like the AOD trannys. Using gear oil in them will cause them to die sooner than you could imagine. Premature gear, chain, bearing and shaft wear will show up as shavings on the magnet next to your drain plug.