According to the wiring diagram I have, yes, there was still a resistance wire, even with TFI-IV.

I don't have a schematic of the wiring diagram online.


You can try autozone, they have a basic wiring diagram. It's not all that acurate though, might be acurate enough to help you out though. The diagram does not show any splices, or connectors like the factory ones do.

 

ok,i looked at the wireing from my ignition and these are all the wires lt. grn lt. orng
lt grn/wht wht/lt blue blk lt blu thick drk blu thick yellow on my diagram i have these arent the wires that should be there

 

What part of the ignition? The switch, inside the cab, the Distributor? The Duraspark II ignition module? Or from the main?

Need more to go on...

From the colors you are giving me, I would think those are from the TFI IV and EEC wires. You can ignore most of those if correct.

=======

Did you get a new Duraspark II wiring harness for your engine? You need to get one if you didn't. Wrecking yard is a good place.

Duraspark II wires are colored as follows:

Coming out of the Duraspark Module:

To Distributor:
1: Orange - Changes to Orange/Yellow
2: Black/Light Green
3: Purple - Changes to Purple/Light Blue

To Coil tach test Terminal:

4: Light Green - Changes color to Light green/yellow

To Ignition Switch:

5: Red/Light Blue - Hot in start.
6: White/Light Blue - Hot in Run

7: (If Applicable) White/Pink - Connects to Red/Light Blue wire. Hot in Start.


TO COIL:

1: Red/Light Green to ignition switch. through resistor wire hot in run.

2: Brown/Pink wire from ignition switch hooks into Red/Light green Wire, after the resistor. Hot in start

3: Light Green/Yellow. - to Duraspark II module and to Tachometer if applicable.

======

If you have the Duraspark II harness, you only need to hook up Four wires.


COIL:

1: Red/Light Green Wire, through resistor wire to ignition switch. hot In Run.

2: Brown/Pink wire from ignition switch hooks into Red/Light green Wire, after the resistor. Hot in start. You can also hook a wire up to the "I" post of the starter solenoid (If Applicable), and hook it into the Red/Light green wire after the resistor.


To the DURASPARK II Harness: from Ignition Switch:

5: Red/Light Blue - Hot in start, through the Neutral saftey switch, or clutch switch.

6: White/Light Blue - Hot in Run

 

ok,i was looking at the way wrong wires i was under the understanding tat the wires where to the switch but under more investigation i found that all those wires are further down the column so i found the wires i need and do i just hook up the red wire from the ignition modual before the slpice (#S-401) and hook up the red/grn wire from the coil after the splice S-216? thx for all the help u are great!

edit: ok, i went and looked and it seems u have to be upside down to look at it all,the splices are they rapped in tape,and also where exatly is the last splice at so i know where to hook up my coil? and wuts the color of the wire i hook it up to

 

Yes I'm talking about the wires coming out of the ignition switch itself located on the steering column, It's location is behind the dash panel. The ignition lock is located about 18 inches away from the ignition switch further up the column and they are connected with a actuating rod.


The factory splices can be covered in tape yes. They can also be covered in a big rubber sort of block for insulation.

I refer you to the last post I wrote in this thread, #18, for hooking up your coil.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...3&postcount=18

 

ok ok ok,i cant find the wire inside the engine compartement at all,and i need to get my truck runnin now. so i came up with an ideal to make it so itsa at least on the road. buy a ballest resister tap it off of the red/grn wire on the ignition run that to a little connecting box then tap the other wire for the start bypass off a wire that has power on start then run this wire to the little connect box then hook up my coil wire to that connect box and just take the po9wer wire off the red grn wire before resistence how does this sound

 

That is almost correct yes...

You have the Red wire and the white wire on the module reversed. Most aftermarket modules are miswired like this anyway,

You need a hot wire going to the white/Lt. blue wire on the module coming off of the run circut. Pictured, in your diagram, only connecting to the wrong wire at module (red instead of white) you need to connect that wire to the White/Lt blue wire instead.

There should be a Red/Lt. Blue wire coming out of the ignition switch as well. Hot in start. That one should hook up to the modules red wire instead. That same wire is hooked up to the starter solenoid.


Why it's wired this way. it tells the module if it needs to be in start mode, or run mode. etc...


Also make sure you don't double up the resistor wire. IE put a new one inline of the factory one by mistake.

Other than the above, your theory is sound.

 

I would just like to add here...


There is some conflicting information on the internet and aftermarket sites about the Red and white wires on the module itself.

My ford diagram states.

Red/Lt. Blue / hot in start, connects to the Red wire on the module.

White/Lt Blue / hot in Run, connects to the white wire of module.

I know some aftermarket modules have the wire colors reveresed inside their harnesses.

What the problem is now, I don't know if the Red and white wires coming out of a aftermarket module are just color inverted, and a aftermarket module is hooked up correctly like this.

From FORD WIRING:

Red/Lt Blue hot in start on truck to white wire on aftermarket module.

White/Lt Blue hot in run on truck to Red aftermarket wire on module.

I have a aftermarket module on my 1981 and it's hooked up like the above the white and red wires are inverted from the trucks connectors like above.


or here's a real poser of a problem, that the aftermarket module is wired incorrectly and it needs to be rewired so the colors match!

=======

Some websites I have looked at state that the Red wire is hot in run, and the white is hot in start, but that is completely backwards to what the Ford wiring diagram states. And my 1981 wiring confirms the ford diagram on this!

Anyone reading this heard of this paticular problem. I knew about it for a long time, but just didn't think hard about it until now. Makes everything really confusing!!

 

0k i got the wireing all done today i found a wire in the engine bay,its white with light blue spots so ihooked up my power to the modual to that and my resistence wire aftere that then i took the other red wire from the coil (the start bypass wire) and hooked it up to the wire that goes to the starter seliniod.sound good so far? ok i got spark,i got fuel,but it wont start its got spark to all cylinders and plenty of fuel in the carb i beleive i hvae thethe dizzy in corectly is the vacuume advance thing spost to be pointing to the rear? thx

 

So it does have spark now.

Well, that's good.

Yes that is how it's basicly wired in the ford diagrams, only a little differently. But that's ok as long as it works.

It still doesn't start?

Timing could be way off... try turning the distributor one way or the other while you try to start it moving the distributor a little each time until it starts, then adjust timing with a light.

Yes, the vacuum advance should point toward the back.

 

ok,so i could be a little bit off ok kool,well,thx very very very much u are a great great man ,man,lol,well is there anything else that would cause it not to start just so i can cover all the bases,thx again

 

There are a lot of things that could cause it not to start.

The most likely is fuel and timing.


You checked, fuel, and spark, spark plug wires all correctly located?

Firing order: 153624 Clockwise.

Starting From the #1 post on the cap and going clockwise, make sure the wires attach to the caps posts in turn and go to the 153624 cylinders as you go around the cap.

If it isn't wired right, attach them correctly and try again.


It's probably just a timing issue now though.


Try moving the distributor, as I stated earlier. that should do the trick.

=======================

If the engine was turned over with the distributor removed, you will have to find your engines top dead center again.

Remove the distibutor and the spark plug of the #1 cylinder and find top dead center of Cylinder #1. Then reinstall the distributor to where the rotor is under post number 1 on the cap when installed.

You may have to do this twice because it's possible to install the distributor 180º out. firing on the exaust stroke instead of the compression stroke etc... Seal your thumb over the spark plug hole as you move the crank pully you should feel pressure on your thumb on the comression stroke.

You should only have to do this if the crank was moved with the distributor out.

 

Remove the distibutor and the spark plug of the #1 cylinder and find top dead center of Cylinder #1. Then reinstall the distributor to where the rotor is under post number 1 on the cap when installed.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Specifically he means find TDC just before the power stroke.

There are 2 TDC's in a 4 stroke engine

The other TDC is just after the exhaust stroke .

Because the timing gear/chain combo can get stripped, I suggest taking the valve cover off and watching for the intake valve to close, this verifies TDC just before the power stroke.

This will show if the chain/gears have been stretched/stripped or not as the marks on the Harmonic balancer & timing pointer will or will not be aligned.

If the 2 marks are 30*+ off and the Intake valve just closed..that's the problem.

 

ok i hvae a realy orange spark and it turns over and its so so close to starting it will fire a bit but it wont keep running

 

So what did you do to get that far along ?

You need to add pertinent (feedback) info as we go along here to understand what is going on.

Did you turn the dizzy a little to get that ?

BTW <> The spark should be blue...yellow is weak spark .