I'm pretty new to towing and have a question. I'm going to be towing a Pontiac Grand Am from Ohio to Alaska on a trailer in which all four wheels of the Pontiac will be OFF the ground. I've already installed the Class III hitch but am curious as to how much of a drop I need to get for the tounge that holds the ball (if i'm not using the right word, the black thing that angles down out of the hitch receiver, the tow ball screws into it).

I've seen them anywhere from no drop to 5 inches of drop. I would figure a two inch drop would do. I'm towing with a 2004 F-150 Heritage, Regular Cab 4x2.

Any advice is helpful
THanks

 

you'll want the trail to be level, so measure the height diff between the hitch and a level trailer tounge

 

Get one of these http://www.hitchesonline.com/special...#RAPID%20HITCH and you won't have to ever worry about it.

 

I'm guessing you don't have a lot of towing experience, so here are some important guidelines:

1) As mentioned, the trailer should sit level. Keep in mind that the back of the truck will settle a couple of inches with the tongue weight.

2) Between 10 and 15% of the total trailer weight should sit on the trailer ball. If there is significantly less, the trailer will sway, and if you have too much tongue weight for the truck, it won't steer worth a crap.

3) That will probably weigh between 4000 and 5000 lbs, and you need trailer brakes, and thus, a trailer brake controller. This, in turn, will need to have its leveling and gain controls set just right. It should come with instructions.

4) Make sure the car is tied down VERY well, for safety and legal reasons. It should be strapped in such a way that it's motion is restricted in every direction - forward, back, and side to side.

5) Trailer tires (they start with "ST") aren't rated for over 65 mph. Even if you have LT tires on your trailer, 65 is a good top speed, and that's on good roads. If you're on the interstate, don't sit in the left lane and slow down some poor guy who's late to work.

6) Also, tire pressures, on the vehicle and trailer, are critical when you're working with maximum loads. Inflate the tires on the truck to the pressure specified on the doorjamb sticker, and the tires on the trailer to the pressure on the tag located near the tongue. If it doesn't say anything about their pressure, run them at the maximum specified on their sidewalls.

7) If you've got your truck loaded with lots of stuff, as I presume you will, heading to alaska and all, there's a chance this could be too much weight, and you need to move some of your goods another way. Its one thing to be overloaded on a backroad driving from one farm lot to another (I do it all the time), but could be a serious issue when you're making a straight 2500 mile run. There are a LOT of weights to watch:
Front Axle rating - Found on the doorframe. This probably won't be an issue.
Rear Axle rating - doorframe - this could very well be an issue with a box full of stuff and 500 lbs of tongue weight.
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) - The total max weight for both of the truck's axles. It will be less than the total of the two axle weight ratings, to allow for different loadings of the vehicle. This could be an issue for you. Also found on the doorframe.
GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) - The total allowable weight of the vehicle and trailer. This will probably be found in a chart in the Owner's Manual.
The trailer will also have axle weight ratings, a GVWR, and tire weight ratings that you need to keep in mind. These should be found on a tag at the front of the trailer. If not, look at the weight ratings on the tires' sidewalls and go with that.

Hope you have a safe and enjoyable journey.

 

excellent advice!

 

Well look like almost everything was covered. BEWARE of the FROST HEAVES. You'll know when you hit them. Wish you had a pillow on the ceiling of the truck.

Also compensate your height. What I mean by that is when you go out to get heights of your truck, then the height of your trailer you should come up with a number. My recommendation is to allow for the weight of the trail, which should drop you truck height by an inch or so. I would also recommend a weight distrubition hitch since you will be traveling a pretty good distance on not-so great roads.

Bummer you are towing a trailer. Without it you can enjoy the Alaskan Autoban. What? No Alaskan Autoban. Darn fooled me. Moral of this last statement is beware of the other driver. You might see a trooper every 300-400 miles so its not uncommon that I get passed doing 70 like I am standing still.

Enjoy your trip and you have to Stop at the Liard Hot Springs on the Alaskan Highway. Get the Milepost, best book for Alaskan Trip.

Mike B