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Engine running warm with A/C

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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 10:26 PM
  #1  
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Engine running warm with A/C

Ok first things first. '94 XLT 4.0L, 5 speed, reg cab.

Texas, 100+ degrees every day lately.

I've been running hot lately with the A/C on. No leaks from the cooling system, it's up to the cold fill mark in the overflow tank. It boiled over a while back but I haven't seen it do it since I replaced the thermostat about 3 weeks ago.

It's not massively higher, just run a little warmer with the A/C on? Perhaps the water pump is worn out?

Thanks for any help.

RP
Zach
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 08:18 AM
  #2  
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wendell borror
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Is your clutch fan in good working order? The ac does put an extra load on the engine when turned on, at a 100 degrees, would allmost have to run warmer, but shouldn't overheat. Does it run cooler at highway speeds, or no difference?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 09:06 AM
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It may also need a radiator flush to help it flow and cool better.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 11:18 AM
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I'll take it out to Lavon later (as we pilots call, a $100 dollar hamburger run) to get lunch or a snack at Sonic, just so I can run down the highway at 65 or so. I'll see if it makes any difference.

As for the fan, YES it works, it works quite well, moves tons of air (which I guess would be the point lol). Radiator was flushed...two months ago? Something like that. It hasn't been long.

I'll let you guys know, thanks.

RP
Zach
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 11:58 AM
  #5  
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Ok back, made my little run to Sonic. It actually ran a bit cooler than what I would consider normal on my truck. It usually sits right on the N in NORMAL. It set a little to the left the whole way there and back. Once I got back into the city and slowed down off the highway, it got up to between the N and O and just leveled out.

Popped the hood, no boiling coolant or anything, no funny sounds from radiator.

Just everyday warm running with the A/C?

Thanks again.

RP
Zach
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 02:12 PM
  #6  
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I'd take a shot at replacing the temp sender; they are cheap to buy from the dealer and seem to have a track record of failure and resulting abnormal/inconsistent/illogical gauge readings. The needle position on the gauge is a relative thing; it's not calibrated to show actual temp. Your fan is fine; at highway speeds you could just as well take it off and keep driving. There is way more air going through there than is needed; exception might be hauling something and/or climbing a *real* hill/mtn pass. Somehow I don't think that's the case where you're at .
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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ondgas
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Ranger Pilot, When you replaced the thermostat, Did you get maybe a higher temp one causing the truck to run warmer? It may be a 200 degree instead of a 180. It would not overheat but just run warmer. Those dash guages are like cowboy said. They don't callem dummy guages for nothing. Just wondering. Will be in your neck of the woods next week. Going to watch the rangers and the Yankees. Later

ondgas
Runnin AMucK Motorsports
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 07:56 PM
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No I actually dropped 10 degrees when I did the thermo last time.

I know it's a dummy gauge and it's all relative and that the sender can go bad. But I find it hard to believe since every time the A/C comes on it goes up the exact same amount.

You hear about the Rangers last night? Like 15 to 1 win, wish I coulda seen that!

RP
Zach
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 10:42 PM
  #9  
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From: Arlington
Originally Posted by ondgas
Will be in your neck of the woods next week. Going to watch the rangers and the Yankees. Later

ondgas
Runnin AMucK Motorsports
Totally off subject but I live about 5 minutes away from Ameriquest Field, but I never go to any games.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CrazySpyder69
Totally off subject but I live about 5 minutes away from Ameriquest Field, but I never go to any games.
And I bet traffic in your area is a NIGHTMARE when it's game night.

RP
Zach
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 11:18 PM
  #11  
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From: Arlington
Originally Posted by RangerPilot
And I bet traffic in your area is a NIGHTMARE when it's game night.

RP
Zach
YUP! But I hardly ever drive that way.

But when you turn you a/c on the motor has to work harder to turn the extra belt/pulley. So maybe its just the motor working harder. But with the 4.0l the motor shouldnt "struggle" to turn that pulley. Now if you had a 2.3l it would really make a difference. I know when I turn on my a/c it feels like im pulling another truck (hint scarcasm).
 
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 10:30 AM
  #12  
ondgas's Avatar
ondgas
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AC's do not pull on motors like they use to. I still think something is wrong if you notice that much difference when the AC is turned on. You are not pullin some big hills or anything right? Your AC compressor might be on the way out. Guage might be acting up. I would have to dig into that one. I would check the cycling of the compressor, check the belt and pulley. I know we are men but you could pay $19.99 and get an AC service check. If its putting out good then you know to look else where. Good luck and let us know.

ondgas
Runnin AMucK Motorsports
 
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 12:17 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ondgas
AC's do not pull on motors like they use to. I still think something is wrong if you notice that much difference when the AC is turned on. You are not pullin some big hills or anything right? Your AC compressor might be on the way out. Guage might be acting up. I would have to dig into that one. I would check the cycling of the compressor, check the belt and pulley. I know we are men but you could pay $19.99 and get an AC service check. If its putting out good then you know to look else where. Good luck and let us know.

ondgas
Runnin AMucK Motorsports
You are correct the newer rotary compressors are way more efficient than the old piston type compressors, so the mechanical load isn't that bad. What you
are forgetting about is the heat that is being passed from the AC condensor to the radiator. If I had to guess what the problem is, I would say the radiator has some blockage due to mineral deposits. Most flushes will not remove these blockages.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 12:18 PM
  #14  
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Bah...$19.99 my butt, I'm a man and you know how we are! lol.

I'm gonna poke around today and have a looksie...see if I can find anything amiss. Thanks for the suggestions.

EDIT: Bob posted the same time I did. Bob how would I get those out of the radiator, if they're present? Is there a good way to tell?

RP
Zach
 
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 12:24 PM
  #15  
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Bob Ayers
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From: Durham, NC
Originally Posted by RangerPilot
Bah...$19.99 my butt, I'm a man and you know how we are! lol.

I'm gonna poke around today and have a looksie...see if I can find anything amiss. Thanks for the suggestions.

EDIT: Bob posted the same time I did. Bob how would I get those out of the radiator, if they're present? Is there a good way to tell?

RP
Zach
A radiator shop can "rod-out" the core of the radiator. But, with the cost of new radiators, you might be better off just replacing the radiator. Not all
radiator shops can remove (and re-install)the plastic tanks from radiators.
 
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