Now that my truck is running, I'd like to figure out all the sounds I hear. I know that I have to realign my alternator, I'm getting noise from either the alternator or the water pump. I have a better looking alternator I'll try from my other truck. I have a bad clutch I know, but I don't know whether I'm also getting bearing noises from my 4 sp as well. Should I be thinking about bearing replacement in the tranny when I do the clutch. Is this something that is common with these tranny's. I don't know how quiet they should be. I'v always heard it said that these tranny's are "bullet proof". With a worn out clutch, can the worn pieces (flywheel,pressure plate) create imbalances that make noise? I want to transfer this engine to my 76 when I'm satisfied that I have the bugs worked out. I like shifting the 4 sp and my 76 originally had a 3sp so I have the clutch pedal and linkages, but currently it is home to an automatic (a smallblock C6) It may be cheaper and easier to buy an FE C6 than to refurbish the 4 sp. Somebody tell me what goes wrong if anything with the 4sp, and how quiet I should expect it to be. The cab isn't very plush so I have little more than sheet metal separating me from the noises, no carpeting or mats, and I don't have the boot where the clutch rod goes through the floorboard. Also what mileage advantage might I enjoy with the manual? uh....for those not following my jouney, the current truck is a 69 w/ 390.

 

You may have a lot of noise from a bad clutch, pressure plate or throw-out bearing. Additionally worn bearings or gears can be a problem too. However, many times hard shifting or tranny noise is due to incorrect oil. Many people believe that you run gear oil in there. That is not correct. The manufacturer's specs call for 50wt engine oil. The results are astounding when the correct oil is in there. Try that before you decide the tranny needs a rebuild. A bad clutch is one that has no adjustment and slips or chatters when you release. The chatter can simply be oil on it from the rear seal. Your flywheel may need a resurface. A clutch pak kit is not too expensive and worth the investment. However, if there is a leaky rear seal, be sure to address that before you put money into a new clutch.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

No, No, No Stockie that 50wt oil goes in the engine now, haven't you heard. [img]/dcforum/Images/happy.gif[/img]


John

 

I agree with stockman, at least that is for my
transmission. For the NP435 transmission both
my owners manual and shop manual call out 50wt
engine oil to be used. If temperatures drop be-
low 10 degrees they reccomend using 30wt. I
have also seen this on decals in the shopping
area of this web site.

 

I thought we settled that debate....20-50 for the engine and 50w for the tranny or was it 80-90 for the engine.....? All this viscosity has me feeling a little over-lubricated!

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

I took the truck to a tranny shop that I have a little faith in (they fixed my 92 ranger tranny & rebuilt my dads c6 for less money than many other places quoted). They drove it and confirmed that I have a bad clutch and that my shifter and maybe top cover need replacing. It's fairly sloppy. They didn't seem to think there was anything wrong with the tranny itself. They are quoteing $480 for clutch replace and up to $200 for top cover and shifter. The 10/30 seemed to correct any valve noises. I'm about to do a better job aligning the alternator to get rid of the front end noises. Regarding the tranny ID. I believe that it's a BorgWarner. Reverse is over and up, and the shifter has a dome shaped cover that has 4 flat sides on it. It looks like it must thread in. The tranny shop charges $55 an hr in labor. How much do clutch packs cost for these trucks. I'm not eager to do my own clutch although I 'spose if I can learn something and save a bunch of money, I might do it myself. I am plotting to put this engine and tranny in my 76 f100. It had a 3sp in it when I got it but the 76 doesn't have a hole in the floor board for the floor shifter. Is there a reason that I need access to the top of the tranny besides the hole where the shifter comes through? I thought that I could unbolt the tranny cover from the 69 and use it as a template for locating the shifter hole.

 

The price they quote is probably about right, but I wouldn't spend it. Instead...invest in a Ford shop manual, a good floor jack with tranny cradle and a case of beer for your best pal who's done this before. BTW...you will need to cut out and install that tunnel cover on the other truck if using the 4-spd. The removal and installation of the tranny cannot be accomplished without that removabnle tunnel cover. Have fun.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

I just bought a 21/2 ton floor jack that looks about as stout as what they got at the gas station. It's pretty dammed heavy. It has probably an 8" plate. What is a tranny cradle, is it an attachment? I just installed air shocks in the back and I was checking out my rear end. I jacked the back up by the diff so that both tires were off the ground. Both wheels turn together in the same direction. This is Posi correct. The ratio was very close to 3.50. maybe 3.6something. The driveline turned closer to 3 1/2 times than 3 3/4. My 76 has a 9" with 3.50 gearing. I do take the truck skiing (my Camaro is an adventure in the snow), the Posi is probably better for snow traction, but the 9" could be swapped for a higher gear ratio easier (I think, just change the third member right) Does anybody have an opinion? he he he (not looking to hear about my Camaro)

 

As you imagined [img]/dcforum/Images/happy.gif[/img] ....it's just an attachment for the floor jack which has adjustable arms to secure the tranny. Removal of a tranny can be done with an ordinary floor jack plate but it requires careful precision movement of teh jack and extra hands to do the balancing act. WARNING: Falling transmissions have been known to cause serious physical injury OR WORSE damage to the tranmission housing.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

Just some other things that will help. besides the oil thing. On the four gear, Nylon bushing from frame to engine rod. from arm to pedel and foot feet. brake and clutch. on tranny itself. replace the roll pin (just undo the round cover and you will see it ) takes a lot of slop out of it. Also I took heater hose and slid it over the shifter itself. Takes a lot of noise out of the cab. also if pilot bushing is bad this make a lot of noise also.
When I young, was pretty determine to tear up a four gear. Went thur twisted drive shaft, 7 clutchs (always broke a arm off the pressure plate) Broke the center out of a nine inch rear and play with 1/2 and 3/4 rear ends and never broke the tranny They are tough

99F350 7.3 4x4 Crew Cab Duelly 6 speed
72F100 302 4 speed
71F100 390 C6
68F250 360 C6 all over the yard
68F1O0 390 C6
67F250 300 4 Speed
from across the P-Sound BB truck