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OK I spent over a half hour searching for anything pretaining to ignition troubles on the distributorless 3L and came up empty. It died at idle in the driveway after moving it around for 5 minutes (using as steam roller on new gravel) and won't restart. I have plenty of fuel pressure and it didn't even try to start. The next morning it started first try. I've been thru the TFI issue a couple of times with my 89 3L but what could the 94 be doing? Thanks!!!!
pull codes and please post to forum.....search forum for directions
we need some diagnostic information so we don't waste your money throwing new parts at unk. problems
has your '94 ever shown this die/start problem before?
pull codes and please post to forum.....search forum for directions
we need some diagnostic information so we don't waste your money throwing new parts at unk. problems
has your '94 ever shown this die/start problem before?
mileage and service performed in past 6 months?
Well I stand corrected but still worried as it is a distributor model but the various sites I've read say the ignition module was OK in my year. It had no codes when I checked today, drove fine for twenty minutes and has never done this before. The van has only 90000 miles on it and is pretty much all original. Up until this, I bragged to anyone that would listen how reliable this van was.
My assumption is it's the modual as the ignition quit when hot and started instantly once cool the next morning. But, unlike my 89 this year doesn't sound like it suffers from the same trouble and my search of this forum turned up nothing on post 93 troubles. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks again guys.
Measure the primary and secondary coil resistance. You can do this without removeing the coil, but removal of the coil is pretty simple too. I doubt it is the ignition module, becuase they relocated the module to the passenger side fender, away from the heat. But it could be the connector to the module, we had that problem once. Our local autozone can test ignition modules, see if one of your local parts stores can. I'm betting the coil is a faulty, they can be intermittent, or temperature relaated sometimes. Resistance measurements outside of specs can easily cause problems like what you describe.
Measure the primary and secondary coil resistance. You can do this without removeing the coil, but removal of the coil is pretty simple too. I doubt it is the ignition module, becuase they relocated the module to the passenger side fender, away from the heat. But it could be the connector to the module, we had that problem once. Our local autozone can test ignition modules, see if one of your local parts stores can. I'm betting the coil is a faulty, they can be intermittent, or temperature relaated sometimes. Resistance measurements outside of specs can easily cause problems like what you describe.
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Thanks for the great advice. I didn't realize they moved the module and I'm assuming that's why the grief ended. I will check the connector for condition and fit.
Coil blaming is a touchy subject in my circle as a bunch of us all grew up blaming them for everything that went wrong with our cars largely because we didn't understand them and they were easy to change out. Over 100 cars and many problems later, I have only ever had one coil turn out to be faulty. BUT, I will heed your advice and be prepared. I can run a test on the one in it but was wondering if I could use the one from my '86 parts van as a spare if I'm stranded?
Thanks again!
On these, faulty coils are a little more likely, depending on how well other ignition components are maintained, and also on they are in a hot location. They are easy to test, just post the primary resistance, the secondary resisatnace, and see if there is any resistance between the primary and secondard (there so be no measurable resistance.) Also check both primary and secondary to the metal rings, and see if they might be shorted out.
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