A/C Problems -- ReCharge?
#1
A/C Problems -- ReCharge?
Hey Fellas,
I have a 1993 F-150 with a new create 5.0 H/O, Auto Trans, and all that good stuff. My problem is:
When I turn off all the vent/heater/ect... hot air still blow from the floor vents. When I turn on the A/C on normal and MAX it blow out even hotter air. I hear that if you can jump the A/C pump that this will engage the pump to kick it. Well I did that but it still blow out hot air. I live in Wisconsin and freon is illeage i suppose. But are there any ideas or is this just a recharge factor?
Thanks in advance for all of your help!
I have a 1993 F-150 with a new create 5.0 H/O, Auto Trans, and all that good stuff. My problem is:
When I turn off all the vent/heater/ect... hot air still blow from the floor vents. When I turn on the A/C on normal and MAX it blow out even hotter air. I hear that if you can jump the A/C pump that this will engage the pump to kick it. Well I did that but it still blow out hot air. I live in Wisconsin and freon is illeage i suppose. But are there any ideas or is this just a recharge factor?
Thanks in advance for all of your help!
#2
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#4
The compressor clutch will not engage unless there is enough refridgerant in the system. If it's been converted to 134A, you can buy that at auto parts stores (even at Walmart) and try it yourself. If it is still R-12 then you will need to take it to a shop, as you need a license to purchase R-12 (and the stuff is pretty expensive).
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#8
Last I heard A/C shops were charging about $30-35 per pound for R-12 and you'll need about 3 pounds. How much the whole job costs depends on what components caused the leak plus the costs of all the troubleshooting and repair time. If the cost to repair including R-12 recharge approaches the cost of repair and converting to R-134A, then I'd go with the conversion. As a minimum, you're likely to need a few o-rings and a new accumulator plus a few ounces of refrigeration oil for a R-12 recharge.
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#10
Don't think removing would make any electrical problems as long as you insulated ends of any disconnected wires. But, if it was mine and I didn't want to fix it I'd just leave everything as-is. If you decide to sell it at some future time, it may well be worth more to the buyer to have everything on it even though non-working. I really don't see any advantage to removing everything-you don't gain very much "room", you don't lose much weight, and the horsepower gain is negligible since the clutch is never engaged.
#11
Get an Interdynamics R-134 changeover kit from your local parts house. Pep Boys here in Calif. had it on special this week for $29.99. Great price because it usually sells for $35 - $45. You get 3 cans of a freon, oil, leak sealer blend, hi and low side fittings, hose with a guage, and great instructions. Takes less then 20 minutes to changeover.
#13
this kit realy does work and as far as changing stuff the kit i bought had adapters to go right on to my pre exhisting fittings then you just plug them on to youre lines turn on youre ac keep an eye on youre charge pressure with the one that comes with the kit and wallaaa youve got ac make sure you fallow the instructions they will tell where to find the correct hose to charge the system with this is very important . of course i had my system discharged of th old R12 first.
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